Jump to content
APC Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've been experimenting with using colored gerb comps as Saxon drivers with miserable results. These comps burn much hotter than BP comps. I've made a wedge shaped rammer so I could drill through the inner clay to prevent burn through but it only delays the inevitable. I've used super glue on the orifice as well and in addition to with no improvement in burn time.

I've ordered some sodium silicate to treat the tube as well but I'm wondering if I wouldn't do better to just roll my own tubes using waterglass as a component in the adhesive?

Posted

OldMarine using so e silicate in your glue certainly helps, but not too much. What helps more is to use strong more processed paper like manilla instead of kraft. It holds up much better. For glue white wood glue like elmers is a good choice.

 

But after all you are just shifting the provblem a little. A nkrmal tube will last about 10 s manilla about 12. You can alsojust passfire your whell and stac, multiple drivers, maybe making multiple times reversing saxons.

Posted
I've figured out these comps would be great for wheel drivers but not for Saxons. I'm hoping to use charcoal drivers with some small color devices strapped alongside.
Posted
You could also try to use NC in your comp (just granulate with nc lacquer), it produces a lot of gas to give some thrust.
Posted

I don't know if I'm quite following along with your description of a wedge shaped rammer. Does your rammer make a tapered or conical or whatever shaped interior? If not, this tends to help to some degree. It has added benefits besides just reduced burn-through as well.

Posted

I should have said conical. I put more taper on it than a standard nozzle rammer to allow me to drill through the thicker clay at the apex of the cone while leaving a bit more on the wall above my nozzle.

I've decided Ned's colored gerb comps are very well suited for wheel drivers but not for Saxons.

×
×
  • Create New...