MadMat Posted December 8, 2015 Posted December 8, 2015 (edited) Well guys, I'm going to attempt my first multibreak shell. I've done some research and watched (what I thought) was a pretty good tutorial video. Does anyone have any advice or tips before I go ahead? Any advice would be appreciated. I'm going to try it with 2" can shells (starting small to begin with). Edited December 8, 2015 by MadMat
DaMounty Posted December 8, 2015 Posted December 8, 2015 I have no advice to offer as I have not advanced to that stage yet, but I do wish you the best of luck. DaM 1
dynomike1 Posted December 8, 2015 Posted December 8, 2015 Did you watch Paul Moolders video on that? He is probably bout as good as they get. What are you using for formers?
memo Posted December 8, 2015 Posted December 8, 2015 read the pyrotechnica 9 and 11 , gives good detailed info on mutibreak building, aldo Bangkok pyro has some real good videos on u tube memo
MadMat Posted December 8, 2015 Author Posted December 8, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the tips, I believe the video I watched was Paul Moulder's (?). I will read the suggestions made as I haven't read them yet. Edited December 8, 2015 by MadMat
OblivionFall Posted December 8, 2015 Posted December 8, 2015 Ned Gorski has a good video on them. Make sure you put cardboard spacer discs to absorb the shock from lift!
mikeee Posted December 8, 2015 Posted December 8, 2015 (edited) read the pyrotechnica 9 and 11 , gives good detailed info on mutibreak building, aldo Bangkok pyro has some real good videos on u tube memoPyrotechecnica 9 and 11 has a great deal of information which requires numerous readings to gather all of the knowledge in the articles. This is a must read when building different sized shells, so you get the proper containment for the size of shell being made. It is the small details that most people will have problems with. Proper pasting and sealing of the shell fuse and casing. Proper spiking for the type of shell being used. Proper weights of paper and layers needed for each shell. A loosely compacted shell will usually cause a failure. Fire from the lift charge migrating into any crevice finding its way into the shell will make your underwear change color. Edited December 8, 2015 by mikeee
Mumbles Posted December 8, 2015 Posted December 8, 2015 I think this is one of the better tutorials around as well. http://wichitabuggywhip.com/fireworks/2inchsalami.html You don't need to bother with a lift sabot or whatever "spacer discs" are if you're building the shell right. 2" shells are so small and light that most cylinder shell issues are basically non-existent. I'd be more impressed if someone's techniques were so bad they managed to flowerpot a shell of this size from anything more than a fire leak actually. 1
MadMat Posted December 9, 2015 Author Posted December 9, 2015 (edited) Yeah, I got bitten by the multi break idea after watching the videos from the Japanese fireworks contest. Dam! those were some beautiful shells.I gotta get into making ball shells and would like get the "snowflake" shell technique down pat. But I imagine thats down the road in the future for me. Edited December 9, 2015 by MadMat
dynomike1 Posted December 9, 2015 Posted December 9, 2015 (edited) If you are using time fuse, make sure you time every new roll. I have gotten it from 2sec.-3sec. Also if you start making spoolets time them complete with BM. Edited December 9, 2015 by dynomike1
MadMat Posted December 9, 2015 Author Posted December 9, 2015 I pretty much use only spoolettes. I figured I was going to have to dial in my times more precisely for this.
nater Posted December 10, 2015 Posted December 10, 2015 I use a drill press with a 1/8" brad point bit. I have 1/4" spacers and use them to set the stop at the appropriate timing. I use commercial meal-d that is set aside just for spolettes, so they remain consistent. I have not fired a multibreak since May, but here it is: https://youtube.com/watch?v=3otMquy_bFk
Wiley Posted December 12, 2015 Posted December 12, 2015 I've built lots of 1.75" nominal multibreaks, designed to fit a 1.91" consumer HDPE gun. As Mumbles mentioned, these shells are so light that you can use some techniques that won't work on larger stuff. I roll my cases with 2 turns of 70# paper, and close them with disks punched from white illustration board from Staples (about 1/16" thick cardboard). Spiked with doubled-up 20# hemp twine, well-pasted. Finished with two turns of gummed tape. Lift and leader and you're done. I've fired shells built this way that wound up as heavy as a pound, and the shell construction was never the issue. That 14" long shell did a number on the stapled-in plug of an HPE mortar though. Never had that issue again after I screwed the plugs in. Feel free to PM me if you'd like more details. Also, here are some pics of these smaller shells in my galler: http://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/gallery/member/12911-wiley/ 1
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