Maxim Posted November 21, 2015 Posted November 21, 2015 (edited) Here are my first two 3" shells. Inner diameter: 64 mm. Star composition: NaNO3 - 65% Suplfur - 20% Pine Charcoal, ballmilled - 15% + 5% Dextrin + 3% MgAl Star size - 10 to 10 mm, cylindrical. 7 layers of 12 stars in each layer.Ignition Tube inner diameter - 6 mm, outside diameter - 9 mm. Burst charge: Nitrate flash KNO3 50% Suplfur 30% Al 325 mesh flakes - 40 gramms.Granulated, granuls 1.5-2 mm.Delay - 2.5 sec. Paper cap to prevent ignition while working with the shell. The second shell: Star composition - Tiger Tail, Star size - 20 мм Burst - 16 gramms of the same nitrate flash. 2" shell star comp is the same as in the first 3" shell. \ When I was shooting the second shell, the rain began, so I had to make everything fast, so I forgot to turn on the right program and thats why the camera lost the focus. VIDEOS:First shell:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkDLzzZpiz0Second shell:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2d7CtlqahU Can you help me with the burst for the second shell? I think I need a faster burst. Edited November 21, 2015 by Maxim 4
gregh Posted November 21, 2015 Posted November 21, 2015 Nice pictures of the build. Good work. Did you fill in between your stars and the edge of the canister?
Maxim Posted November 21, 2015 Author Posted November 21, 2015 No, the burst charge is only in the center of the shell,
OblivionFall Posted November 21, 2015 Posted November 21, 2015 (edited) Use 5:3:2 KNO3:Al:S for optimal burst charge. And if that doesn't work use finer Aluminum like german dark or indian blackhead. Also damn those are some nice 3" shells if they're your first. Edited November 21, 2015 by OblivionFall
Sparx88 Posted November 21, 2015 Posted November 21, 2015 (edited) Nice work. In fact it looks so good that it could be that you have been doing this longer than you admit. Oh yah, on that second video, I hate it when that shyte happens when the camera starts screwing with the focus. Happens right when you least need it. Edited November 22, 2015 by Sparx88
Zumber Posted November 22, 2015 Posted November 22, 2015 (edited) Here are my first two 3" shells.0202Inner diameter: 64 mm.02Star composition:02 NaNO3 - 65%02 Suplfur - 20%02 Pine Charcoal, ballmilled - 15%02 + 5% Dextrin02 + 3% MgAl02Star size - 10 to 10 mm, cylindrical.027 layers of 12 stars in each layer.Ignition Tube inner diameter - 6 mm, outside diameter - 9 mm.02Burst charge:02Nitrate flash KNO3 50% Suplfur 30% Al 325 mesh flakes - 40 gramms.Granulated, granuls 1.5-2 mm.Delay - 2.5 sec.0202020202Paper cap to prevent ignition while working with the shell.02The second shell:02Star composition - Tiger Tail,02Star size - 20 §Þ§Þ02Burst - 16 gramms of the same nitrate flash.022" shell star comp is the same as in the first 3" shell.0202\020202020202020202When I was shooting the second shell, the rain began, so I had to make everything fast, so I forgot to turn on the right program and thats why the camera lost the focus.0202VIDEOS:First shell:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkDLzzZpiz0Second shell:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2d7CtlqahU0202Can you help me with the burst for the second shell? I think I need a faster burst.02very very nice work..!! Edited November 22, 2015 by swapnilsutar1988
braddsn Posted November 23, 2015 Posted November 23, 2015 Excellent! I couldn't see the blurry one very well, but the first shell was outstanding! I love it. Nice break and nice colors.
MrB Posted November 23, 2015 Posted November 23, 2015 Can you help me with the burst for the second shell? I think I need a faster burst. Just speculating here, but you could play around with the size of the granules. It's either that, or move to a different, faster flash altogether.I'm thinking smaller, for a faster energy release. The question is how small you can go before the flame-front starts to be slowed down by the lack of clear pathways for the hot gasses.Then again, salutes work without granules, so it might not be a problem... I'm still blown away with the meticulous builds of your shells. I'd stack the stars, and add all the padding to fit the layer, in one spot, and then just offset where the padding goes on each layer... Your way is better, but i'm not sure the difference is visible. But then, i don't really do cylinder shells, or pumped stars. I just know thats how i would do it, since i'm prone to shortcuts...Lovely work.B!
Mumbles Posted November 24, 2015 Posted November 24, 2015 Please don't take these comments as too critical. The first shell worked great, and I have some general idea about the second one. This said, I don't think you need a faster burst. I think you need a better burst. That or there are some major construction flaws that I'm not seeing. I'd lean toward better burst however. The casing looks fine. You're already using a huge amount of flash, and double the normal amount of spiking. The issue I think you're running into is that flash powder produces very little gas output, and on it's own is sort of a sub-par burst. I believe if you mixed in granular black powder, or even polverone, you'd have much better breaks. Burst is about both speed and gas output. If you lack one of them, your shell wont burst to it's full potential. I also believe you'd also get better breaks if you filled in the spaces between the comets and the wall. Doing this with something flammable and gas producing like polverone might actually be enough to solve your issues. Your star sizes don't quite make sense. To fit 12 comets per ring, they should be around 13mm OD. For the second shell, I bet you can increase the inner diameter a couple millimeters and fit 7 comets quite snugly. 1
MadMat Posted November 24, 2015 Posted November 24, 2015 (edited) I agree with Mumbles 100%. I get great break action by using a 60/40 mix of BP/Flash and usually dust polverone among the stars. I have found more flash than that can actually take away from the effect of the stars (bright flash.. your eyes take a moment to adjust and you miss out on the stars). My flash is perchlorate and 325 mesh bright flake aluminum. I saw the your video where you lit your BP on your hand; That's some dam hot BP! You should have no problems using that in your break charge Edited November 24, 2015 by MadMat
Maxim Posted November 24, 2015 Author Posted November 24, 2015 (edited) Thanks for everything, I have one more question, what's polverone? Yeah, the stars were actually 13 mm, not 10. Edited November 24, 2015 by Maxim
Sparx88 Posted November 24, 2015 Posted November 24, 2015 (edited) Unmilled dry mixed/screened BP. It's nice because it burns much slower than the burst creating a larger longer lasting fireball to help light the stars etc. Don't use it with the burst, only around the back side - between the case and the stars/ inserts. Helps stabilize and firm up the shell too. Edited November 24, 2015 by Sparx88 1
MadMat Posted November 25, 2015 Posted November 25, 2015 When I make polverone, I still ball mill it for 30-40 min.s. IMHO it's easier than screening
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