Sparx88 Posted October 14, 2015 Posted October 14, 2015 It's a decision you have to make. How deadly could it be made. Not on purpose of course but it's the very nature of our hobby. Everything burns and breaks. Odds are you'll get injured in some way or another whether just a burned lighter thumb, a mistake or fate. But thats not to say that we should'nt enjoy what we like to do and do it more. It's not a perfect science and that's what drives the art of it. When hauling a 12" ball shell over to it's hole to be lowered in, it's a scary thought that what you have in your grasp can blow you to bits. But having conversation, the sharing of experience, and well mannered technique runs those odds down some. For me it's like this- if I do end up hurt by this hobby where I can't do it anymore, I would still say it was worth it when I did. So using flash is a choice like that. Are there other ways to acheive what you want that may be cheaper or "safer".. sure. there always is. Calculating risk vs reward is something you have to do when you pick up that measuring spoon.
Merlin Posted October 14, 2015 Author Posted October 14, 2015 Yep I feel the same way. Early on I got burned but it was in disposing of some "bad " meal. Learned a little respect from that! By the way if you ever do get burned ask the Dr for silver sulfadiazene ointment. I got it pretty bad on the right hand but that miracle stuff healed me up in less than a month.
FloridaCracker Posted October 17, 2015 Posted October 17, 2015 I just lost a long message when trying to post and not going to type it all out again right now. But I keep seeing more and more the claim that nitrate flash is more sensitive than perchlorate and this is not true. It may ignite easier if it contains sulfur like most nitrate formulas do. But perchlorate flash would as well with the addition of sulfur. But perchlorate will always give up it's oxygen easier while nitrate holds on to it better. This release of oxygen is the first step to getting the chemical reactions started that leads to ignition.
Merlin Posted October 17, 2015 Author Posted October 17, 2015 It's always important to compare apples to apples or in this case sulfur to sulfur. Perc flash definitely has its uses but I have to admit I like the lower pitched report of the nitrate. Sort of the see per boom of a 30 Cal as opposed to the higher cracking of a 223
OblivionFall Posted October 17, 2015 Posted October 17, 2015 Just work with TPA flash powder and save yourself the worry
Ubehage Posted October 17, 2015 Posted October 17, 2015 It's a decision you have to make. How deadly could it be made. Not on purpose of course but it's the very nature of our hobby. Everything burns and breaks. Odds are you'll get injured in some way or another whether just a burned lighter thumb, a mistake or fate. But thats not to say that we should'nt enjoy what we like to do and do it more. It's not a perfect science and that's what drives the art of it. When hauling a 12" ball shell over to it's hole to be lowered in, it's a scary thought that what you have in your grasp can blow you to bits. But having conversation, the sharing of experience, and well mannered technique runs those odds down some. For me it's like this- if I do end up hurt by this hobby where I can't do it anymore, I would still say it was worth it when I did. So using flash is a choice like that. Are there other ways to acheive what you want that may be cheaper or "safer".. sure. there always is. Calculating risk vs reward is something you have to do when you pick up that measuring spoon.I enjoy that scary element of our hobby. It gives me a thrill, and also drives me to do things right.
ivars21 Posted October 17, 2015 Posted October 17, 2015 Last time I checked TPA (Terephthalic acid) was way more expensive than dark al + it is almost impossible to source it in EU.
Col Posted October 17, 2015 Posted October 17, 2015 Paper hemi`s will give more scope than plastic. With hot bp (mcrh) and a few extra layers of pasting you may not need a booster. Catalysed whistle packs a decent punch and doesnt have the distracting (blinding) white flash.
FloridaCracker Posted October 18, 2015 Posted October 18, 2015 I have plenty of TPA that I bought from a member in our club and use it when I can't use the binary method and have to hand mix flash. I was just pointing out that nitrate flash is not more sensitive than perchlorate under the same conditions, yet I keep reading that it is. Nothing wrong with having extra respect for something but I think sometimes newer guys may use a bit of "reverse logic" and think perchlorate flash is the less dangerous option and possibly not give it as much respect as they would otherwise. At least that was the case with a newer club member that said he had read nitrate flash was more sensitive and that perchlorate wasn't as dangerous to make. I wish I still had access to a book with hammer drop tests and BAM friction tests to help put some numbers on things. Maybe someone else does. Easier flame ignition from the addition of sulfur does not mean it is more sensitive to shock, friction, and static which are the dangerous sensitivities we worry about as they are unexpected and can happen far from a heat source.
Merlin Posted October 18, 2015 Author Posted October 18, 2015 I guess the pros work with large amounts of flash. But honestly I was a bit mortified with the pdf description of making a kilogram. Not to mention screening and granularity and drying. I know it must be an acceptable procedure. Not really so different than the procedure for hot benzolift. I know small amounts of flash can kill you but 2.2 lbs would be devastating for a large radius. I know I am ignorant but for my purposes 20 grams is enough for 4 shells in flash bags and I wouldn't make more in one session so maybe I should just stay with standard 70 /30
ivars21 Posted October 18, 2015 Posted October 18, 2015 (edited) I remember seeing a youtube video of a manufacturer in US? He was screening 1kg perchlorate+sulphur flash just like that, even offered the guy who interviewed him a try. I guess someone knows what I am talking about. So it is quite common practice apparently. Edited October 18, 2015 by ivars21 1
alvin001 Posted October 18, 2015 Posted October 18, 2015 (edited) Merlin why are you ignorant, if you only need 20 g, then you're right not making more. Edited October 18, 2015 by alvin001
memo Posted October 18, 2015 Posted October 18, 2015 Merlin why are you ignorant, if you only need 20 g, then you're right not making more.but if you need more , say like a 100 grams for a bottom shot and you only make 20 gram batches then you are mixing the chems 5 times to get your 100 grams.. what do you think is more dangerous ?
Col Posted October 18, 2015 Posted October 18, 2015 If the worst happened i`d rather it be 20g than100g. The 100g would save time but then so would buying fireworks vs making them
Maserface Posted October 18, 2015 Posted October 18, 2015 making 100 grams in one batch is safer than making 100 grams in five batches, but you shouldn't do either if the conditions aren't aright, 65%+ relative humidity etc 1
Merlin Posted October 18, 2015 Author Posted October 18, 2015 I am always aware of the humidity and use anti static spray and diaper the mix. There is no such thing as being too careful.
Ubehage Posted October 18, 2015 Posted October 18, 2015 How important is antistatic spray, if you have an antistatic mat and use ESD-shoes from my old job as an electrical engineer?
Merlin Posted October 18, 2015 Author Posted October 18, 2015 It wouldn't be if you have the mat and shoes. I don't so I spray everything. It's getting that time of year when I get zapped from shopping carts shopping at Sams. 1
OblivionFall Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 (edited) If you use KNO3 flash for the sound (which is usually why you would use it,) 6/3/1 gives a deeper boom, burns hotter and flashes brighter than the more powerful 5/3/2. Might be less sensitive but I'm not sure about that. Also on the topic of humidity - about 80% humidity is optimal. If you're finding yourself being shocked by touching a door handle, it is time to put away the flash until it gets warmer/more humid. Edited October 24, 2015 by OblivionFall 1
memo Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 made some slow flash today, humidity was hi about 90% dried my kno3 , sulfer and al. in my dry box. i didnt dry my kraft paper. that was a mistake. i work outside so the humidity gets into everything. memo 1
OblivionFall Posted October 25, 2015 Posted October 25, 2015 made some slow flash today, humidity was hi about 90% dried my kno3 , sulfer and al. in my dry box. i didnt dry my kraft paper. that was a mistake. i work outside so the humidity gets into everything. memoThat's why I think having a garage to work in is great. You measure out all of the chems in the garage, pour them together then bring them outside for mixing. 1
memo Posted October 25, 2015 Posted October 25, 2015 where i work has a roof just no walls. all open air. i have a storage area, its not big enough to work out of... its ruff living on the beach in the tropics.... someone has to do it
Merlin Posted October 26, 2015 Author Posted October 26, 2015 I tried the TPA procedure and I used 70/15/15. It will go boom in amounts over 3 grams but isn't very reactive, but has to be well confined. I don't think it would work in flash bags. It definitely is not sensitive as " normal" flash. I will try another batch maybe 70/10/20. (Perc, tpa, Al)How important is double based nitro cellulose lacquer? I have nitro cellulose prills that dissolve well but not sure whether it is double based. When I made it using acetone and shotgun powder most of the powder would not dissolve.
dynomike1 Posted October 26, 2015 Posted October 26, 2015 I make 142g of 70/30 when i am building shells, and that don't last long.
psypuls Posted October 28, 2015 Posted October 28, 2015 how powerful is 35 kno335 kclo430 al compared to 70 kclo430 al ?Is it like half strength or 75% strength?
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