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Will slow flash work in larger salutes?


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Posted
I'm kinda scared of working with flash in larger salutes I was wondering since it's big (50g +) will slow flash work ? What composition would be good and would it need to be in a thick wall?
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Posted
Pot nitrate (milled) dark aluminum sulfur. I think work in thin wall as well
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Posted

Pot nitrate (milled) dark aluminum sulfur. I think work in thin wall as well

 

 

 

 

 

Is that safer tho ? Than dark alum and perch?

Posted

Yes it will work, but it really needs some confinement.

Safer - no.

Slow flash is actually more sensitive then perc flash.

Read into binary mixed salutes.

Posted

in my humble opinion,

it comes down to sound/ volume and bass of the salute. perchlorate is considered the least sensitive out of all formulas. I look at it like making a fire, or a day at the shooting range... don't be scared of it. But respect it. Work carefully, have everything planned out. Work out doors and you will be alright. Remember these shells are slammed out of a cannon at 200ft per second. That's a lot of force to throw it in the air. And it doesn't go off. just be cautious, careful, and think about what you're doing before you do it.

 

binary mix is a good idea until you get comfortable. While you paste the shell, as the shell spins and turns, the fuel and oxidizer will mix together.

Posted

When used as a bottom shot the salute needs the strength of a good thick tube to take the lift forces.

Posted (edited)

5/3/2 KNO3:Al:S

 

more sensitive than Perchlorate/Al, but in a pile will make a big thump and burn you if it ignites rather than Perchlorate/Al going boom.

50g of unconfined perch al would be catastrophic but 50g unconfined KNO3 Al S wouldn't be as bad. Both are very powerful in a salute, KNO3:Al:S makes a nicer deep boom than perch Al.

 

Techincally yes Perchlorate and Aluminum is more powerful than KNO3 : Al : S but the KNO3 : Al : S sounds much better so I prefer it.

 

 

Why not look into using Blue Aluminum powder? MWJ knows a lot about it btw.

 

ALSO: Ground yourself often or buy an anti-static wristband. Static discharge is usually why people have accidents with Flash.

Edited by OblivionFall
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

in my humble opinion,

it comes down to sound/ volume and bass of the salute. perchlorate is considered the least sensitive out of all formulas. I look at it like making a fire, or a day at the shooting range... don't be scared of it. But respect it. Work carefully, have everything planned out. Work out doors and you will be alright. Remember these shells are slammed out of a cannon at 200ft per second. That's a lot of force to throw it in the air. And it doesn't go off. just be cautious, careful, and think about what you're doing before you do it.

 

binary mix is a good idea until you get comfortable. While you paste the shell, as the shell spins and turns, the fuel and oxidizer will mix together.

Electrostatic discharge is what you need to be most concerned with, at least with the perchlorate/Al mixes which tend to be a bit less friction and impact sensitive than the nitrate/sulfur/Al mixes. Read the segment in this article called "What about flash?": http://www.skylighter.com/skylighter_info_pages/Books/fireworkssafetymanualofca.htmIt's about halfway down the page. That should tell you just about everything you need to know, safety wise.

 

If a large quantity of perc flash ignites on the table, you die. If a pile of nitrate flash does the same thing, you will receive 3rd degree burns over all exposed skin.

 

If you insist on making salutes without even considering the finer aspects of pyro that make this hobby a beautiful art, I would strongly recommend looking into the binary method.

Be smart, read all you can, and maybe think about making something pretty that folks can appreciate. B00mers tend to be frowned upon in general.

Edited by Wiley
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Posted

I'm kinda scared of working with flash in larger salutes I was wondering since it's big (50g +) will slow flash work ? What composition would be good and would it need to be in a thick wall?

In that case, I would recommend using Blue Aluminum, and mix it with perc 70/30 as usual.

 

Slow flash is in most ways less safe than normal flash. Where "blue" flash is about as safe as it gets.

Blue flash does need a thick wall. It will not explode unless it comes under pressure and gets ignited.

  • Like 1
Posted

In that case, I would recommend using Blue Aluminum, and mix it with perc 70/30 as usual.

 

Slow flash is in most ways less safe than normal flash. Where "blue" flash is about as safe as it gets.

Blue flash does need a thick wall. It will not explode unless it comes under pressure and gets ignited.

Blue aluminum flash only works in batches of 25g or more, confined very well in a strong tube (even stronger end caps) with a hot fuse. You may have to put a little "baggie" of black powder or kno3:al on the end of the fuse tied to it with an elastic band. I'm talking a tiny baggie. Like less than 0.5g of comp. This will insure that the blue aluminum flash is ignited.

Posted

Oblivio he talks about 50 g, so all fine. But there are also some people that got it working in cap plugs.

 

An other possibility would be TPA flash.

Posted (edited)

TL;DR OF THIS THREAD:

 

KNO3 flash has a higher chance of going off on you than Perchlorate flash, but if it does KNO3 flash will do much less damage. (Unconfined.)

 

Use TPA if you can obtain it, otherwise use Blue Aluminum.

Edited by OblivionFall
Posted

I ONLY make flash comps with Pot. Perc. I feel it's the safest for ANY flash mix. when I mix, I wear all cotton clothes, usually makesure my work environment has a pot of water boiling to keep steam in the air and I stand on an anti-static mat. Maybe I am over protective, but it's my fingers and hands..and so far I have all of them, and want to keep it that way. :)

  • Like 1
Posted

I ONLY make flash comps with Pot. Perc. I feel it's the safest for ANY flash mix. when I mix, I wear all cotton clothes, usually makesure my work environment has a pot of water boiling to keep steam in the air and I stand on an anti-static mat. Maybe I am over protective, but it's my fingers and hands..and so far I have all of them, and want to keep it that way. :)

I don't think that "over protective" is a term that exists in pyro :D

Posted

I ONLY make flash comps with Pot. Perc. I feel it's the safest for ANY flash mix. when I mix, I wear all cotton clothes, usually makesure my work environment has a pot of water boiling to keep steam in the air and I stand on an anti-static mat. Maybe I am over protective, but it's my fingers and hands..and so far I have all of them, and want to keep it that way. :)

 

LOL that's good protection but I don't think 50g will take out fingers and hands more like you and the person next to you. That's why I'm looking for other.

Posted

LOL that's good protection but I don't think 50g will take out fingers and hands more like you and the person next to you. That's why I'm looking for other.

In that case, I think you have 2 choices:

Use "Blue" Al, or go back to BP-salutes.

Posted
Ubehage you missed the binary method, which is a real good method for everything wnere the casing is able to provide the needed support.
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Posted
I always here people talk about blue aluminum but where do you get it? I haven't seen any online except for one seller on ebay and its a rip off.
Posted

I ONLY make flash comps with Pot. Perc. I feel it's the safest for ANY flash mix. when I mix, I wear all cotton clothes, usually makesure my work environment has a pot of water boiling to keep steam in the air and I stand on an anti-static mat. Maybe I am over protective, but it's my fingers and hands..and so far I have all of them, and want to keep it that way. :)

pot of boiling water inside your shop doesn't sounds too safe :)

Posted

50g wouldn't take you out, but your life would never be the same. Goodbye hands.

 

Also cannonfuse is a good provider

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