Prime For Silver Flitter Stars?

[Nickmaslo]

Hey guys, I just made 5 Shells this last weekend. 2 of which were Silver Flitter Cut Stars

 

The composition is

 

40% Potassium Perchlorate

37% -325 Bright Aluminum (I used Alcoa 120)

8% Red Gum (I used Yacca)

6% Magnalium (I used -200 Mesh)

4% Sulfur (Yellow)

5% Dextrin

 

This is the first time I have ever made these stars, or ANY perchlorate based star and I found that A LOT of the stars were blown blind. I think there must have been around 50 stars or more inside these 3" shells and I believe that maybe 5-10 stars actually ignited. I was a little disappointed.

 

I really love these stars, they light up the whole sky like lightning and they even PROPEL themselves as the burn, causing this very unique swirling/bee line flight pattern as they burn.

 

I would like to see them in full force. Right now they are drying, after I found out what happened I took the rest of them and put them in my priming bucket and sprayed them with Dextrin Liquor (10% dextrin 90% water) and generously coated them in a Meal D + 5% Magnalium + 5% 3 Micron Jagged Dark Flake Aluminum screen mixed priming mixture.

 

Does anyone know of any other good single layer prime for cut stars that would help me and that I could rely on to ignite these stars extremely well?

Edited August 3, 2015 by Nickmaslo

[Mumbles]

Bright aluminum is a flake variety. It appears you used atomized, and a reasonably coarse variety at that. This may be hurting your ignition.

I've never had too much luck with single layer primes. All the best primes in my experience require or are benefited by at least a dusting of BP. I've had mixed results without it. Fencepost prime is probably as close as you'll get. I've heard good things about Monocapa, but I've never personally used it. I personally was using pinball with a layer of green meal over the top and had good ignition for the most part.

Fencepost: http://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/2676-fence-post-prime/ There are a few more threads about it here if you wanted to read up a but more.

Monocapa: http://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/6544-formulas-priming-and-technical-pyrotechnics/

Pinball: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.pyrotechnics/57w-aKXgxqE The application notes listed really make the difference between a good and a great prime.

[Nickmaslo]

Bright aluminum is a flake variety. It appears you used atomized, and a reasonably coarse variety at that. This may be hurting your ignition.

 

I've never had too much luck with single layer primes. All the best primes in my experience require or are benefited by at least a dusting of BP. I've had mixed results without it. Fencepost prime is probably as close as you'll get. I've heard good things about Monocapa, but I've never personally used it. I personally was using pinball with a layer of green meal over the top and had good ignition for the most part.

 

Fencepost: http://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/2676-fence-post-prime/ There are a few more threads about it here if you wanted to read up a but more.

 

Monocapa: http://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/6544-formulas-priming-and-technical-pyrotechnics/

 

Pinball: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.pyrotechnics/57w-aKXgxqE The application notes listed really make the difference between a good and a great prime.

What is a green mix? Green meal? What is it

[gregh]

Here ya go!

 

CLICK ME!

[Mumbles]

As I'm sure the link will tell you, green meal and green mix are the same thing. It's hand mixed black powder. Just screened together. It's supposed to light up easily and burn for a bit to ensure ignition.

[TYRONEEZEKIEL]

Monocapa is literally the answer to everything. It's more expensive to use than scratch prime, but boy is it powerful.

[Nickmaslo]

Monocapa is literally the answer to everything. It's more expensive to use than scratch prime, but boy is it powerful.

Looks like Jopetes Spanish paper is almost the answer to everything! Haha