benrenyi4 Posted July 8, 2015 Posted July 8, 2015 Who knows the strontium carbonate red strobe formula？The strontium nitrate strobe stars absorb moisture quickly because the nitrate is hygroscopic.
mohammacl Posted July 8, 2015 Posted July 8, 2015 http://www.pyrodata.com/compositions/Lancaster-chlorate-Red
gregh Posted July 8, 2015 Posted July 8, 2015 http://www.utahpyro.org/compositions/ChemicalListForColoredStars.pdf
wizard7611 Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 Now I'm just curious. Lets say I have a rolled batch of red strobe stars in front of me. How long would it take for them not to strobe anymore?
Rocketier Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 (edited) I tested both and worked fine.bind and rolled them with NC aceton and at last layer sealed of with NC no moist problems. Chinese strobe Star Red blinkingStrontium Nitrate 58Potassium Nitrate 5PVC 15 (HCB or Saran)Mg/Al alloy powder 18Sulfur 4Nitrocellulose "paste" additional 25% to damp Chinese strobe Star Green blinkingBarium Nitrate 58Potassium Nitrate 5Mg/Al alloy powder 17PVC 15Sulfur 4Nitrocellulose "paste" additional 25% to damp Edited July 11, 2015 by Rocketier
ddewees Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 The colored nitrate strobes don't work well for me... All the great ones seem to use AP.
Mumbles Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 http://www.skylighter.com/fireworks/how-to-make/fireworks-strobe-pots.asp Funny, I would have suspected them to be nitrate based. They didn't seem regular enough for AP.
OldMarine Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 I've been tinkering with those strobe pots and can't seem to get them regulated. They vary between 2 and 12hz no matter how I adjust the MgAl. Still trying though.
lloyd Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 (edited) Patrick,Strobes are sensitive to: Particle sizes (of all the components), compaction, NC-content, moisture content, and finally, the area initially ignited. That last might seem odd, because - well - ALL the surface will eventually get lit -- right? Except: If you ignite a small dot in the center of the column, it will 'bore in', forming a shallow core, much like a rocket. That changes the surface area. So, it's simplest to ignite the entire top of the column at once, in order to get it burning "candle fashion" from the get-go. Prime the whole surface uniformly thick, and grain-powder prime THAT prime, to make sure it lights uniformly. LLoyd Edited March 2, 2016 by lloyd
OldMarine Posted March 3, 2016 Posted March 3, 2016 Lloyd, I made another small batch using the tips you all gave me in the other thread. I step primed them after scarifying the still damp comp. I used a finer mesh of MgAl as well. I'll let them dry for a week just to be sure before testing.I also added some fine MgAl to the prime.
Mumbles Posted March 3, 2016 Posted March 3, 2016 I wonder if using a tight cut of MgAl would help. As a back of the envelope calculation, for -100+200 mesh MgAl, the actual amount of metal per granule varies by approximately an order of magnitude. That seems like a lot.
OldMarine Posted March 3, 2016 Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) I have some of August's MgAl that I got from Chris but only in the finer meshes. I don't know if the larger tightly classified ones are still available but I'm a'looking. Edit: nope only the milled. Edited March 3, 2016 by OldMarine
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