Should I order flash powder (for break)

[BeverFever]

So everything has been going well with making shells. I've had a few successful 3" shells on the 4th. I want to order some time fuse and ball shells, but I wanted some input on ordering flash powder. I keep seeing these nice large and hard breaks, some videos I see I wonder if they are even using BP for the break (https://youtu.be/lQEjMMHbD3U .. https://youtu.be/dKSvcYBAK8A). So should I spend the $40.00 on flash chems? I plan on staying in the 3" shell category until I can do multi-effect 4" like in the first video. I also wouldn't mind making some 2" salutes. What is all of your opinions?

 

Also, my theory on wanting to make ball shells is because they look like they take less comp (BP mainly, N1 glitter is cheap and easy to make). And that translates into more shells made at cheaper costs and time. I figured since it takes my mill a full day to produce hot lift, I could use less hot BP on rice hulls with a dash of flash, and that would extend my BP.

 

What do you think?

Edited July 6, 2015 by BeverFever

[Nessalco]

Using flash to augment a break charge is common. You won't save money.

 

Kevin

Edited July 6, 2015 by Nessalco

[deer]

40$ ? Naah. If you're not sure what you're after, order just enough for few tests - like hundred grams or so, to see if it's even what you need.

Also you might consider ordering less of the fine micron Al and more perch, because latter has more applications. Fine flake Al is usable almost only in flash.

[BeverFever]

It's more about how good those breaks look. saving time is just a bonus.

[Mumbles]

You wont actually save any BP. Flash just makes the same amount of BP break shells larger. It could probably save time on pasting however. Similar effects to boosting with flash can be achieved by more shell wall reinforcement. Alternatively, there are plenty of people who augment poor pasting jobs with boosters to get them to appear normal as well.

[BeverFever]

oh, well maybe I will hold off then. I will try to do a good pasting job with wheat paste and kraft, its pretty fun to me. So on a same inch by inch comparison does ball shells take less comp than cylinder shells?

 

Also, does anyone have a link to a good black match tutorial? Last time I tried to separate the strands then soak in the slurry, but it just came out as one thick strand. It was kind of fragile also, BP would fall off and leave a fluffy black string, fire would hang up on it.

Edited July 6, 2015 by BeverFever

[braddsn]

Bever, like Mumbles said, you will be using the same amount of break charge (meal coated rice hulls) regardless of whether you use booster or not. Booster is a very handy tool once you learn how to use it. It can allow you to fine tune your breaks for both size and speed. First and foremost, no matter what you use in your break charge, you will only have a great looking symmetrical break if your pasting job is good. Some shells (like slow gold, willow comps, horsetails, to name a few) I don't boost at all. On the other hand, the bright pastel peonies I like to break very hard. I have found that a "medium" booster, (35 KCLO4, 35 KNO3, 30 AL) is more forgiving than 70/30 and when pasted properly makes a VERY hard break. I will have a video up shortly of my 4th of July show, and you can see what I mean.

[Arthur]

Sadly most flash loaded shells are flash loaded just to save effort pasting them.

[BeverFever]

I'll look out for that video braddsn, where will you post it? I'm still torn on buying it. I just love those hard and fast, in your face breaks that flash provides. Especially on 4"+. Maybe I will buy it, maybe I won't. Thanks to the feed back. I do appreciate the feed back. Everyone on this forum has been very helpful.

[calebkessinger]

You could just make some whistle fuel and use that. many do. I have used a spanish flash for mine but after my last batch of benzoate whistle turned out stupid hot I am thinking of just using it instead. I have already been using the benny whistle for salutes and such... haven't shot one side by side with the other but for me, where i'm located, it's still Plenty Loud.

[braddsn]

Arthur, that is partly true but not completely. Some are lazy and boost to reduce layers pasted.. but those shells usually end up looking unprofessional anyways. There is no getting around proper pasting. Most professional shells are boosted... not because of a poor paste job, but to increase star speed thus increasing break diameter. You can use the same size stars with same burn duration in 5 different shells and using booster, they can all have different break diameters. It is a very handy tool, depending on what you want to achieve.

[OblivionFall]

Why not try KNO3:Al? Or KClO4:Al with atomized aluminum or not-so-fine of flake?

[Nessalco]

 

Also, does anyone have a link to a good black match tutorial? Last time I tried to separate the strands then soak in the slurry, but it just came out as one thick strand. It was kind of fragile also, BP would fall off and leave a fluffy black string, fire would hang up on it.

The best one I've seen is on Fireworking. Didn't find any others that showed the proper process.

 

Sounds like you got a good start. Did your string have a white core? You need to pummel it more. Also try using 3$ dex + 1% CMC. I can tie BM into a knot and no powder flakes off.

 

Kevin

[MrB]

Arthur, that is partly true but not completely. Some are lazy and boost to reduce layers pasted.. but those shells usually end up looking unprofessional anyways.

 

But it's so sad... I see people using plastic hemies, and after gluing the halfs together, they are "done" no pasting what so ever.

And then the maker complains about having to boost them, to get a decent break, and why are yours (mine) always breaking identical, and symmetrical?

Well, duh. No plastic, no booster, pasting, and there you go. I'm no pro, nothing like a bunch of the guys here, but at least i can pull of a reasonably spherical set of star-filled shells.

I can see some shells needing a booster, but every shell, always? Nope.

B!