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Priming chlorate stars


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Posted
What are your opinion on the need to prime Potassium chlorate stars and Barium Chlorate stars. In David Bleser’s book “Round Stars & Shells” Page 22 second paragraph discuses priming a Potassium chlorate formula. What does this do to the life of the star and the sensitivity to friction and the possibility of spontaneous combustion do to the Sulfur in the Black Powder prime? Are there any non BP star primers?
Posted
snip...Are there any non BP star primers?

I've used only one so far. David Bleser lists the following as an AP prime:

 

Potassium Perchlorate 75

Red Gum 12

Charcoal Airfloat 9

Dextrin 4

 

The absence of KNO3 prevents the formation of Ammonium nitrate and soggy stars. I rolled a layer of this on some "Best of AFN" orange Ti stars (made with AP / KP oxidizer) prior to building them up with MgAl spiked BP. The stars dried and lit just fine.

 

I do not have any experience priming KClO3 stars with it...it's sulfur free, so I do not know why it wouldn't work, though.

 

*edited 'cause I can't spell*

Posted

There are several non BP primes, one is Veline's super prime:

 

Potassium Perchlorate 55

Magnalium -200 mesh 5

Dextrin 4

Charcoal, airfloat 20

Woodmeal -70 mesh 6

Iron Oxide, Red 5

Potassium Dichromate 5

 

 

Be careful with the Dichromate, it's a carcinogen.

Posted
What are your opinion on the need to prime Potassium chlorate stars and Barium Chlorate stars. In David Bleser’s book “Round Stars & Shells” Page 22 second paragraph discuses priming a Potassium chlorate formula. What does this do to the life of the star and the sensitivity to friction and the possibility of spontaneous combustion do to the Sulfur in the Black Powder prime? Are there any non BP star primers?

I've only used a couple of chlorate stars, and they didn't need any priming. Chlorate based comps take fire if you think mean thoughts at them ! That said, the Veline SUper Prime that ewest mentioned has lit everything I used it on, 100%

Posted

Same here, veline super prime lights just about anything. I only had 1 thing that it didn't light, but I don't think it was dry yet. It was a theoretical red glitter.

 

Normally I use the veline super prime and then use a light dusting of green meal over the top to ensure ignition. For AP I bind the outer prime layer with 2% NC lacquer to protect the AP from nitrates. Something similar could probably work for chlorate stars. However of all the chlorate stars, like frozen said, I've never had to use a prime at all.

Posted
There are several non BP primes, one is Veline's super prime:

 

Potassium Perchlorate    55

Magnalium -200 mesh    5

Dextrin                          4

Charcoal, airfloat          20

Woodmeal -70 mesh      6

Iron Oxide, Red              5

Potassium Dichromate    5

 

 

Be careful with the Dichromate, it's a carcinogen.

Where was the Veline's prime first published? And where can I find his star formulas mentioned in Dave Stoddard 6" ball shell DVD?

Posted

That link didn't work for me, but here's another:

Veline Colored Star System

 

I'm not sure when they were published but it was a while ago. I first found them in a skylighter article and then again in Tom Peregrins book "Introduction to Practical Pyrotechnics". The great thing about the Veline system is that you can make just about any color with only 10 or so chemicals. Not to mention they're easy to pump and roll. If you're getting into colored stars, I'd recommend starting here.

 

BTW, it looks to me like Skylighter has been reorganizing all their back articles in the newsletters, it's now easier to find "How-To's"

Posted
I want to say they were originally published in Pyrocolor Harmony by Joel Harmon. Could be wrong though. Probably in AFN or Pyrotechnica, or a PGI bulletin or some other literature and were reprinted in Joel's book.
  • 6 months later...
Posted
Sorry for the bump but with what can i replace red gum?
Posted
Sorry for the bump but with what can i replace red gum?

I have replaced Red gum with Shellac in some formulas, it worked fine but I don't have a reference point in this case the formula with Red gum so i couldn't say how it works compared to the original. Someone else might give more insight into this.

 

I substitued it 1:1

Posted

is this the formula you used ?

Potassium Perchlorate 75

Red Gum 12 substituted to Shellac 12

Charcoal Airfloat 9

Dextrin 4

Posted

If you want to prime Chlorate stars, why not just use :

 

Perc 70%

Char 25%

Dex 5%

 

There is no point in using the other formulas, as Chlorate is not hard to ignite and most (published) comps do not contain metals.

 

Personally, I prime Chlorate stars with slightly milled meal.

 

If you are using a burst that does not use Sulfur, such as H3, you can prime your Chlorate stars with H3. It works fine.

  • 5 years later...
Posted (edited)

hello.

 

It's safe, priming stars chlorate with sulfur-free BP. The first layer.

and the second layer. BP with sulfur, the classic formula 75/15/10.

 

is safe for me to do this, this way?

 

Thank you very much.

Edited by daniroor
Posted
Another good prime is unmilled sulphurless bp with 7% silicon and a outside layer of green mix
Posted (edited)
For chlorates I prefer to use a Nitro Cellulose layer to protect it from your burst. Or you could use h3 as a burst (which would give you a badass burst). Even so I would use a NC layer for protection from moister,kno3,sulfurs,or phosphates. Then with the NC layer I would either use your current favorite prime, or use a more chlorate compatible one. If I used H3 I would use a chlorate compatible prime. Even so you would want to use a chlorate compatible prime for safety. just about any mix of Perc,charcoal, silicon or another heat producer should be good. Just about ever prime I saw posted here should work just fine for you. Edited by pyroshell
Posted
Why do you need to protect chlorates from moisture, KNO3, or phosphates?
Posted

Why do you need to protect chlorates from moisture, KNO3, or phosphates?

The phosphates are if you store them you don't have to worry as much about phosphates. Phosphates can make the mix unstable. I do not remember why I said Moisture and kno3. It is NOT extremely hygroscopic and I am stumped as why I said Kno3. Ignore what I said about Kno3 but the rest I find to be valid points.
Posted (edited)

The phosphates are if you store them you don't have to worry as much about phosphates. Phosphates can make the mix unstable. I do not remember why I said Moisture and kno3. It is NOT extremely hygroscopic and I am stumped as why I said Kno3. Ignore what I said about Kno3 but the rest I find to be valid points.

 

Where do you mean the phosphates would come from?

Edited by Potassiumchlorate
Posted

Where do you mean the phosphates would come from?

Okay like if you are storing stars and don't have them in shells or a proper storage mag. there is always a chance of introducing phosphates even if you don't think that you work with them. Like a lot of dish soaps and soap boosters used to have them. I know that we don't use those anymore at least not in the US, But you never really know where they might come from (unless you just police them like crazy). I just say that it would be the safest thing to do as a just in case for storage and to protect it from the bp in your shells.
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