braddsn Posted May 26, 2015 Posted May 26, 2015 Unfortunately I ran out of time this evening, and had to shoot before dark. So it's hard to make out the blue. It sort of blends with the color of the sky. But you get the picture. With these shells, I can see the void of stars where the hemis meet.. but I have a plan to fix that. The green shell was the first green using an improved priming method (thanks Jopetes!). So I only boosted it with 1g of 35/35/30. Now that I know the green is solid, I will boost it with 4g next time and she will really pop!!
braddsn Posted May 26, 2015 Author Posted May 26, 2015 With this one, my rising comet was a little too large, and when the shell breaks, you can see part of it flying to one side. LOL.
Wiley Posted May 26, 2015 Posted May 26, 2015 Those are all great! I especially liked the third one. Excellent hangtime on the strobes.
braddsn Posted May 26, 2015 Author Posted May 26, 2015 Thanks for the compliments guys! More to come soon! Some 5's and 6's coming up. Greg let me know if you come across some more parlon!
JOPETES Posted May 26, 2015 Posted May 26, 2015 -Brad, thanks for your shells to see video.-You have filled well with star three shells in the middle of the hemispheres? the gaps are and makes a slight butterfly effect.-very nice green shell, lacks more opening force with reinforcement 4grs will not have problems on. How diameter is the green stars without layers of priming? ... How thick is the final layer of black powder?-C6 blue nuclei are very small, are very short, only one seconds, you have to make the biggest cores in my opinion.-Very nice effect blue change stars white strobe, in my opinion I think you should do a bit bigger the core strobe. How diameter is the core strobe?-Good job overall in a very short time you will overcome many professionals, I encourage friend brad!
Wiley Posted May 26, 2015 Posted May 26, 2015 What I've seen Ned Gorski do to avoid that gap is to hot glue a ring of stars to the inside lip of the hemis such that when closed, the two rings mesh. The rest of the hemi is of course filled as normal.
braddsn Posted May 26, 2015 Author Posted May 26, 2015 Thanks guys and thanks for the tips. Wiley the hot glue ifea is something to consider for sure. Good find. Jopetes.. on the 2 shells containing blue comp I used .5mm monocapa followed by 1mm bp. The green stars have .5mm monocapa followed by 1.5mm bp. Now I will build a green shell with 4g booster and see how it looks. The stribe cores were too small, I will roll more of these stars and adjust sizes. I am going to try and eliminate the visible seam between the hemis during the break also. I am very happy about the priming method.
rogeryermaw Posted May 26, 2015 Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) your colors are getting ridiculous! i agree with jopetes that if you keep at this pace you will exceed several pros before too much longer. would like to see those strobes with a bit more hang time but they looke great! Edited May 26, 2015 by rogeryermaw
braddsn Posted May 26, 2015 Author Posted May 26, 2015 Roger that means a lot pal. Thanks. Those strobes need to be about 3 times that size I agree! That was the first time have used bleser strobe and wanted to err on the side of caution. More to come for sure.
JOPETES Posted May 26, 2015 Posted May 26, 2015 Brad, what diameter have green stars without priming layers used in the 4-inch shell? you've tried white strobe PDF, I think you'll like?
braddsn Posted May 27, 2015 Author Posted May 27, 2015 Jopetes I think they are 10mm, but I roll on 3mm cores. So probably 7mm of comp. I think when I add the booster it will break much bigger. I am building some boosted green shells tonight and some aqua ones. I will post video when I test them.
Sparx88 Posted May 27, 2015 Posted May 27, 2015 I always like strobes, blue, and strobes. Oh and just wanted to say strobes are cool. Strobes. Yep like strobes. The transition was nice 1
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