Favorite Shell Redo

[marks265]

I will soon be making one or more of a favorite shell I like to make this year. With that said I will post as many details as I can think of on how I make this 8" multi-break shell. Usually I do 3 breaks to report. I might try 4 breaks to report on this next build. I will pull old photos from original builds and add new pics to cover missed details.

 

SO stay tuned on how to build an 8" multi-break glitter shell that weighs about 50 pounds and that I have won PGI best exhibition cylinder shell competition in 2012 with. I used 1-1/4" comets for stars. All details will follow, just not today!

 

Below is a couple of examples of this shell. It also shows what video can and can't do for you. In any regard, this thread won't be finished in a weekend.

 

about 2 minutes in. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3ZehTI-pbw

 

some of you will recognize my first one made of these on my youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9KI379UTvM

 

I'm sure this will get lengthy!

 

Mark

 

 

 

[marks265]

I guess I will start with the reactive materials first and then build the shell from there. First up is star discussion.

 

The 1-1/4" Gold Glitter stars required would be 15 in a ring unless your former is a little tight where 14 comets might be all that will fit where some shimming might be required. Next I go 7 rings high so 15 in a ring times 7 rings high = 105 stars per break, then times 3 = 315 stars for a 3 break 8"shell. To be safe I always go with more than less with star count because being short of something would really suck. On the other hand too much excess can be a dilemma too. This matters because you want to anticipate how much material is required and don't want excess stars or material. So it always behoves you to know what you need to prevent additional product or being short. I'll get more into star fitting when I start building the shell later.

 

break time.. got unexpected company

[ddewees]

Looking forward to this, thanks.

[marks265]

OK I'm back again. So here is the star formula. In my notes to make 339 stars/comets you will need:

 

6825g meal powder

840g Sodium Oxalate

1050g MgAl -200 mesh

1575g Chinese needle

210g charcoal, air float, commercial

168g dextrin

 

10668g total or 23.5 pounds of comp

 

The formula when broken down should be:

 

Meal 65

Sodium Oxalate 8

MgAl -200 10

Chinese needle 15

Charcoal, air float, commercial 2

Dextrin 1.5

 

Because my meal powder has dextrin in it, a small amount is additionally added to compensate for the additional ingredients. Here is some additional notes:

 

For clarity the meal powder is 75/15/10/4 milled 2 hours. Willow charcoal is used. The remainder of the formula is screened in later. This formula gives off hydrogen sulphide gas like there is no tomorrow! I've tried a few tricks of the trade to try to circumvent the problem but had no success. This stuff will heat up and gas off. When I made my first shell I only made 254g batches when pumping individual stars. When I finally got my star plate I was making about 4.5 pounds at a time. Once the stars are pressed the reaction stops so you need to move quick.

 

When pumping these stars with the above formula I used 4 percent distilled water. No additives or corrections to try to prevent the reaction. Just pump them quickly.

 

Later I'll talk about powder and then get into some pics. Lots more to come!

 

Mark

[Wiley]

Looking forward to this one! I'm especially curious to see what you use to break these, and what you use for a bottom shot core.

 

Are your methods strictly Maltese, or do you do things a little differently? Needless to say, those breaks are both huge and symmetrical, just like the stuff made by the guys over the pond.

[marks265]

Looking forward to this one! I'm especially curious to see what you use to break these, and what you use for a bottom shot core.

 

Are your methods strictly Maltese, or do you do things a little differently? Needless to say, those breaks are both huge and symmetrical, just like the stuff made by the guys over the pond.

 

I haven't forgotten about this. I just haven't had the time. This weekend I should have a lot more going. This is a Maltese way of building as I was taught from Stateside folks. I think different clubs in Malta may have differences too. Maybe someone from Malta will chime in on this someday especially when I detail what I have done.

 

Mark

[marks265]

I'm actually getting to this part a little faster than I thought I would. I figure if you are some of the lucky ones who might have a 3 day Holiday weekend this post might be something you want to try. We've all played with different ways of making black powder and its manipulations to transform it into the life blood of the art. I believe the least likely of things tried is the proportions of the 4 chems (I include dextrin when I mill my powder).

 

The everyday formula of 75/15/10 may be arguably the best ratio for complete consumption when looking at the stoi ohboy metricability (stoichiometry). However when we want the biggest breaks or the most lift that we can get from our powder, changing the ratio a tad one way or another to produce more gas will help. This a theory that was taught to me and I've had great success with it. There are other ways to help with bigger breaks that relate to shell construction. I just haven't gotten that far yet as I am talking about what I do for the powder alone that I use for my methods. Of course opinions of other people along with the chems used and how they are prepared will always be quite varied.

 

So what I have settled on using is a ratio of 73/11/12/4 - Potassium nitrate/Charcoal/Sulfur/Dextrin. And don't forget that the choice of charcoal can easily change performance. Pretty much a no brainer statement but I have to say it I guess. My choice is willow. I use willow (weeping) because it is abundant and it works. It is a top choice toward making the hottest powder but won't win the race. Once again, willow is free and there is a lot of it for me. I cook my own charcoal in case you were wondering.

 

When I fill my mill jars I weigh everything out into a small bucket including the lump charcoal. I dump the contents into the jar and I mill my powder for 2 hours and it is done. I have a variable speed mill. I start it out a little slower to reduce the lump charcoal. Then I turn the speed up until it makes the most racket that it can possibly make in the 6 inch jars. Then I run like hell and wait 2 hours. (kidding)!

 

After I have a 5 gallon bucket or 2 filled with milled powder (about 40-50 pounds) I granulate it out and let it dry.

 

When the granulated powder is dry I screen it to 3 sizes:

 

what stays on a 5 mesh is large

what stays on a 10 mesh is medium

the rest is fines

 

I then like to let my powder season for about a month to allow the grains to set up good and hard. To make this 8" 50 pounder you're going to need about 10 and half pounds of powder. The biggest point I want to give from my experience here is to not be afraid to experiment from what know. You may be surprised! Getting closer to building the beast and attaching some cool pics so enjoy for now.

 

Mark

[nater]

Thanks for sharing Mark. Those amounts for stars and burst really add perspective to building those big shells.

[FlaMtnBkr]

Did you happen to learn these methods with the FPAG guys?

[marks265]

Did you happen to learn these methods with the FPAG guys?

 

I can probably count how many times I talked to the Florida guys on one hand, so to speak. I know a couple through PGI but don't have a lot of communication with anyone from FPAG.

[FlaMtnBkr]

Just wondering as quite a few guys have a lot of knowledge of Malta techniques, most notably probably Mitch P. A few have been there multiple times as we have a sister club located there that we have contact with.

 

Just curious!

[marks265]

I've talked to Mitch a couple of times. I know you guys also were working with the Texas bunch to build Maltese techniques as well. My starting point in shell construction will be what mostly what Kyle has posted on his site (Passfire) in regard to the "sister club".

[nater]

Any updates on this yet?

[marks265]

Any updates on this yet?

 

I've been slacking, I know. I think this next week is supposed to be pretty rainy so I will try to keep this project moving forward. My next move was to show how I make my cases but I don't have any old pics that are worthy to use and I already had made a bunch for this year so I'm trying to find a good opportunity to show this. I could merely just describe it but I'm not so sure that it would appease the masses. I'll put some eye candy in my gallery for now and import them here when needed.

 

Mark

[nater]

I was just curious, not trying to be pushy. I would like to see how you make your casings. I remember the articles on Passfire mentioned recycled Kraft and poster board being rolled up. I also vaguely recall someone mentioning the Maltese using paper from sacks of concrete, grocery sacks and other thick papers scavenged or recycled from other sources. Even if I never build a true Maltese styled shell, there are certainly points we can all work into our own shell construction.

[marks265]

No worries Nater,

 

My cases are made from recycled materials. I used to work at a place that did laser cutting and was able to get chip board in sheets that were either 5' x 10' or 4' x 8'. This stuff comes in real handy for rolling larger cases. Then for the paper I use the 60 pound recycled stuff from a big box store like Menards or Home Depot. It is usually found in or around the paint department. Usually there is rosin paper next to it, which I've never messed with. I only use good kraft for any paper that gets pasted in any shell I build.

 

And your right it is all about using your resources. Anything from your wallet to what you can get your hands on to what you think that you really have to use comes into play. That's a mouthful of thoughts right there!

[marks265]

I got all my pics to show how I make my cans. Problem is I can't upload them to my gallery for some reason. I've done it many times before so don't know what's up. Once I get the glitch figured out I will continue.

[marks265]

I did a reboot and things are working again. Yeah!!!

 

This post is dedicated to how I make my Maltese cylinder shell cases. It is a hybrid of what Passfire has on its site, what others have taught me, and what I adapted it to. The paste used is a wheat paste with Elmer's white glue (PVA I believe) AKA Maltese Paste. I use straight white glue for rolling the case and "Maltese Paste" for closing the ends up. The recipe is:

 

900g water

600g white glue

130g dry wheat paste

10g sodium benzoate or similar for shelf life if needed.

 

This is what I do in the winter. Sometimes it is never what I need but at least I have something.

 

So here is a look at some of my supplies to make a can.

 

This is the label on the roll of recycled paper. It is called "Builders Paper" and is about 50 or 60 pound paper.

 

I like to cut a roll of paper in a miter saw to the height I use for a size shell. Then I mark it so I know what it is for.

 

I cut a length of chipboard to go 2 turns around my former. The height is figured out based on what is put into the case. The beauty of my method is that you can easily cut the case to a shorter length after the case is made by making "standard size" cases. A big part of that statement is how the case gets rolled up (which is coming up). Of course you can take any case and cut it down. It is somewhat wasteful but sometimes a small price to pay.

 

Next I cut a sheet of recycled paper that is 1" wider than the chip board and about 6" longer for an 8 inch case. I make the recycled paper longer to handle the end of the chipboard. This extra length helps to keep the chipboard laying flat. Without it it would be harder to get a flat seam on the outside wall. I then lay the chipboard down centered on the recycled paper for the height so there is a 1/2" on each side and then pull the chipboard to one end almost even but not quite. If you do glue will leak onto the former and you may have fun removing the case from the former when finished. I use very minimal amounts of glue otherwise the paper wrinkles and the paper never lays flats. Ultimately there could be soft spots in the case wall from using too much glue.

 

Place a 6" long bead of glue at the leading edge of the paper (or first paper edge to touch the former) and spread it out. This should be between the paper and the chipboard.

 

Then roll the case up one turn and put a similar bead of glue down. Be careful not to over do it here too. Otherwise you could glue the paper to the former here as well. This will keep the inside seam glued down when completed. Then finish rolling the second turn and add glue to the end of each edge.

 

I usually roll the former a couple of times to tighten up the paper if needed. But I have overdone it and had a heck of a time trying to slide the former off. Then I slide the can down off the former to expose enough paper to pleat down and let it rest for a couple of minutes.

 

The next step is to cut the tabs I usually go about 1" wide. The first cut I place right next to the inside seam.

 

Then I continue to cut all the way around. Always look ahead so that the end comes out fairly even for aesthetics.

 

After all the tabs are cut I place a disc in and mash down all the tabs to break them. I do this with no paste. This step helps to ensure that the tabs stay down after you have finished the case.

 

Another step to help ensure that the tabs stay down after pasting is to paste all the paper and chipboard right away to get some soak time. Don't forget to do your discs too, but leave the side that will touch the former dry! The more you get paste into the fibers the less hair you'll pull out. It is a hard thing for a pyro to do again but try to let it rest for a minute or two.

 

Now lay in the first disc and paste the tabs down. I smack the chipboard tabs down with a 3/4" dowel to help break the paper. I also use a paint brush to work the paste into the paper. Once a complete turn is laid down there should now be a turn of recycled paper exposed. Paste this down next. It should look like this:

 

Then lay down the next chipboard disc and do the second pass of chipboard. I place a scrap spolette tube in the hole to keep alignment of the discs.

 

Before you start to lay down the last layer of recycled paper I look for the extra 6" of paper. This will be visible because a few tabs will have doubles but the most of them will be a single tab. Paste down the doubles first. Then keep going until finished.

 

Remove the finish case to dry. And remove the alignment tool.

 

 

I will take some time later and edit if needed. By now you should have all of your powder made as well as the stars. Now the cans are drying for the week and we can next see what I do with spolette building. Then we can start to stuff the salami!

 

 

 

 

[Wiley]

Yeah, pitchurs! I use that same paper to roll my cases, but mine are just a tad smaller

 

Keep 'em coming!

[MrB]

I use the same paper as well, but it's nowhere near as strong as kraft, something one has to account for in some circumstances. Since i've found a reliable source for virgin craft, it's no longer my only source of paper, but it still gets a lot of use.

B!

[BeverFever]

Very nice. Loving all the premade cans

[marks265]

Thanks for the comments guys! Its getting late so I will do a quick deal on spolettes. The first pic is of what I mostly use to make all of my spolettes.

 

I wrote on the sizes on the tube and nosing paper. The paper is 30# good kraft. I love this stuff because it can take a lot of abuse for what it is. I cut my tubes on a miter saw. Doing so leaves burrs of paper behind. So I cut them off with a razor blade my rammer which is under the string in the pic. Once I put the rammer through the tube it pulls the excess paper out and I trim it off with the razor blade. Then I sand the outside edges to remove the roughness there as well.

 

Once the tube is prep'd I place it in a hardwood block that has a hole drilled through to support the tube. This block of wood has a strip of tape on the bottom to seal it.

 

Next I have my powder which is Diamondback x-fine or meal D or similar. It has been screened by me for consistency. I also have my little scoop for charging the tube. I stuffed the scoop in the tube so that you can get an idea of its size. The rammer has a small tit ground into it so that the last charge is not flat. This helps for giving fire. I use a dead blow hammer for ramming which is also shown. Lastly you should be able to pick out my little funnel for charging tubes.

 

So when I make my spolettes I add 2 scoops of the screened meal D on only the first charge so that the rammer doesn't wreck anything under it. I insert my rammer and give it 7 good hits with my dead blow hammer. I have one hand operating the hammer and the other is holding the tube firmly to the table. The table should be ver solid otherwise consolidation will be inconsistent and or poor. From there I add only one increment of powder and ram it with 7 more hits. I continue this process until I get the length of timing I need.

 

Next I stuff in some black match and roll up the nosing. This pic shows my glue path for the paper.

 

Then I bring the paper together and tie a clove hitch followed by a half hitch.

 

When completed they look like this.

 

What I haven't done yet was to take an awl and poke holes in 3-4 spots through the nosing paper just under the twine. I like to do this to try to control the flame or gas pressure. Some people talk about suck backs of flame which is why a tit is added to the rammer. I think a well tied nosing would prevent this as well. Additionally I add the holes to try to distribute the hot gas and flame at an angle as well as down the black match. Lots of voodoo here for sure!

 

Still have lots to talk about and will keep this rolling when I have time. I know its never fast enough though.

 

[nater]

Thanks for all the updates. I finished my spolettes the same way, even with 30 lb Kraft nosing. I only have a flat rammer, so I press them with 1/8 tsp increments of meal-d, which gives me 1/4" increments. I press an extra increment for the timing I want and then drill them down to the desired timing with a 1/8" brad point bit in a drill press. This gives me exact timing with a flat rammer, acomplishing the same goal as the rammer with a tit on it.

[marks265]

This is a very good point and I drill back all my spolettes that I use for inserts in a shell. Timing is the most critical here and drilling back is a "must do" to avoid sloppy effects. For the main timer of a shell I get pretty darn close and measure a lot. This is really hard to detect any small differences from break to break. On the other hand you can destroy a 9 timed hammer shell. That that it bothers me to drill into black powder but I guess I just avoid the method when I can. My scoop is also smaller maybe half that size when filled level. If you notice it is tapered down to the front. Because it is a smaller increment it is harder to over shoot.

 

Also when I make spolettes for my main shell they are matched and nosed as above. When I drill back spolettes for inserts and such I do not nose them.

 

Another point I'd like to mention is that whenever I test spolettes I always get video of the burn and capture burn time from it. I may also light a piece of time fuse next to it and fuse it together with a spolette and video that burn. The truest test is always in the air but at least I have a reference incase I ever should wonder about my powder or method. Trying to measure burn time with a stop watch or similar would be ridiculous.

 

A last point of taking video is to watch a spolette burn through is to compare what a flat rammer end looks like as compared to a drilled back spolette. One that has been drilled back looks more like a rocket motor which really throws the fire to the contents. Here again because the spolette is nosed and matched I believe some of that vim is somewhat held back and the timing can change an iota or two which may multiply or make up for any little difference of me not drilling back. In the end you can never go wrong with drilling back as it will be the most powerful, I just get lazy with this pyro preference here because of what I mentioned above. More of my voodoo thoughts for the morning I guess.