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Posted

Hmm... do you suppose 7:3 Perc:Indian Blackhead will work? Or at least for the 30 mm :o

 

Because I will not order the 14 mm if it is too difficult to break. Just thought it could be cool with a crosette shell, and if I had to scale up to the bigger ones, the shell would be yet too big for me to complete.

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Posted
Yeah standard flash should work. Thats what I use on my 3/4" crossettes It always takes a bit of tweaking though. It really depends on what you use as a fuse in the crossettes. The fuse can determine if it breaks good, or jets. Granulated Whistle may be another possibility.
Posted

hmm, i will use visco, the thin kinky kind. I've heard Thermolite is better, but waaaay to hard to find/get...

 

But what about compositions. Which kind of star composition do you think won't work for crossettes..? I've though alittle about D1, BP and Chrys6

  • 1 month later...
Posted
hmm, i will use visco, the thin kinky kind. I've heard Thermolite is better, but waaaay to hard to find/get...

 

But what about compositions. Which kind of star composition do you think won't work for crossettes..? I've though alittle about D1, BP and Chrys6

Im currently using 2 different color comps one is Mclains organic red and the other is Shimizu's organic blue and the crossettes are 3/4" and im using standard 70/30 flash. if that helps?

Posted

I have been looking for the crossette effect, not know what it was. now that I know im kinda interested in making me some(a lot!). The only thing is that I dont quite understand the opperation of this star. If someone could explain to me how these stars are made and work I would be thankful. I understand the breaking into pieces and the interoir charge but why do they have disc on the ends instead of more comp. like cavity stars? And whats with the fuse and pins? I see the is no hole in the star so where is this fuse going?

 

I have an interesting comp that you could use but its kinda a through to gether star and is now completely made up of seperate chems. It consists of powder sparklers, meal powder, magnalium flash, and dextrin. It was something I was playing with that came out to be good. Dont get me wrong on making hodge podge stars but its a good star. Its used here in the two inner mines, the green stobe bits I threw in hopping to get some more effect and get rid of em but they didnt light do to no priming.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...22/S4020753.jpg

http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...nt=S4020758.flv

Posted
I have been looking for the crossette effect, not know what it was.  now that I know im kinda interested in making me some(a lot!).  The only thing is that I dont quite understand the opperation of this star.  If someone could explain to me how these stars are made and work I would be thankful. I understand the breaking into pieces and the interoir charge but why do they have disc on the ends instead of more comp. like cavity stars?  And whats with the fuse and pins?  I see the is no hole in the star so where is this fuse going?

 

I have an interesting comp that you could use but its kinda a through to gether star and is now completely made up of seperate chems.  It consists of powder sparklers, meal powder, magnalium flash, and dextrin.  It was something I was playing with that came out to be good.  Dont get me wrong on making hodge podge stars but its a good star.  Its used here in the two inner mines, the green stobe bits I threw in hopping to get some more effect and get rid of em but they didnt light do to no priming.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...22/S4020753.jpg

http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...nt=S4020758.flv

The stars are pumped using a crossette pump, which you can see pictures of on the front page of www.wolterpyrotools.com although that is a sexy gang pump, normally it's just of of those and a sleeve.

They are pumped like normal stars, but can be hard to take of the tool, since they break easily. They might need a bit more pressure than normally pumped stars, e.g hydraulic press or arbour.

The comet (or star if you will) will end up like this:

http://www.pyroguide.com/index.php?title=Image:Crossette.jpg

A fuse is inserted in the tiny hole and the cross shaped cavity filled with a burst charge, like flash or whistle. The fuse makes the burst charge go off ealier, and as the comet burns from below the burst charge will go off before the comet reaches it. This means there's only a tiny hole in the comet when the break charge goes off making it easier to split.

 

A cap is glued to the top of the crossette simply to enclose the comet so powder won't fly out, and even if the powder mystically stayed in the cavity, the comet wouldn't split because of a large hole. The crossette is then wrapped in typically 2 wraps of paper so the comet doesn't take fire from the sides making the burst charge go off earlier or make it 'jet' (when the crossette doesn't split.

Posted
I have been looking for the crossette effect, not know what it was. now that I know im kinda interested in making me some(a lot!). The only thing is that I dont quite understand the opperation of this star. If someone could explain to me how these stars are made and work I would be thankful. I understand the breaking into pieces and the interoir charge but why do they have disc on the ends instead of more comp. like cavity stars? And whats with the fuse and pins? I see the is no hole in the star so where is this fuse going?

 

I have an interesting comp that you could use but its kinda a through to gether star and is now completely made up of seperate chems. It consists of powder sparklers, meal powder, magnalium flash, and dextrin. It was something I was playing with that came out to be good. Dont get me wrong on making hodge podge stars but its a good star. Its used here in the two inner mines, the green stobe bits I threw in hopping to get some more effect and get rid of em but they didnt light do to no priming.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...22/S4020753.jpg

http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...nt=S4020758.flv

The below description is from Wolterpyro's site.

 

CROSSETTE STAR PUMPS

These stars require a little extra labor to compete, but well worth the labor for the return of such a spectacular show. As they are ejected from the shell, they burn as a common star would, after a few seconds they explode into 4-5 pieces filling the sky with color and light.

The tool is similar to a common star pump. However, the finished star has a cross-shaped cavity, which is loaded with a break charge. This cavity is then closed with a cardboard disc. The end and sides are then covered with a couple turns of kraft paper. The opposite end is left bare, as it will be ignited by the break charge of the shell. As the star travels through the sky, the star burns toward the break charge, fire spits into the fuse hole (formed by the pump) and into the break charge, which bursts the star into 4 pieces. These stars add a lot of fullness to any shell. The stars can also be shot from mortars. Comes with complete instructions.

 

http://www.wolterpyrotools.com/pyrotools/stars.html

 

And the reason why you need the disk is to seal the cavity where the whistle/flash mix is put in or held. Please corect me if im wrong anyone..

Posted
Aww Pudi you beat me by 1 minute.
Posted
Is it essential to use a fuse because the directions i got from wolter do not indicate to use one :( and i just made 19 and sealed them!!!
Posted

Well, you could do without, try it out and see if they work.

If they work, you've saved some centimetres of fuse (big change, woohoo!), if not try using it next time. ;)

Posted
Well, you could do without, try it out and see if they work.

If they work, you've saved some centimetres of fuse (big change, woohoo!), if not try using it next time. ;)

Yea i guess ill light one and see how it goes if not ill be using a few centimeters of fuse.

Posted
Your crossettes will not be reliable without a short piece of fuse extending the length of the burst cavity. Think about how when you accelerate your car...you're pressed back into the seat, and how when you apply the brakes...you are thrown forward. The same thing happens when your crossettes are accelerating forward...the burst charge packs in the back of the cavity, but as soon as it starts to slow down, the burst packs toward the front. The tiny piece of paper fuse or blackmatch ensures that the fire will get to the burst packed at the front of the cavity before the bottom of the comet has burned-away too much to provide confinement...this is how jetting problems result.
Posted
Thanks pudi. That cleared up about all of it. I was under the impression that the fuse came out the bottom and was lit apon the break. But whats the purpose of the cone shape core?
Posted

That's where the break charge goes...the cone shape just helps ensure that the rammer won't break the comet as it's removed after pressing (negative draft angle). Some tooling actually creates a star-shaped cone cavity, which helps to create 4 distinct pieces as the comet breaks, which you can see in the picture that Pudi posted earlier.

 

http://www.pyroguide.com/index.php?title=Image:Crossette.jpg

Posted
Well thanks for all the help guys. I think I will be making me a pump with the help of some of those deminsions. I will post pics and vids afterwards if it all comes out good. Or atleast some of it comes out. :)
Posted
Your crossettes will not be reliable without a short piece of fuse extending the length of the burst cavity. Think about how when you accelerate your car...you're pressed back into the seat, and how when you apply the brakes...you are thrown forward. The same thing happens when your crossettes are accelerating forward...the burst charge packs in the back of the cavity, but as soon as it starts to slow down, the burst packs toward the front. The tiny piece of paper fuse or blackmatch ensures that the fire will get to the burst packed at the front of the cavity before the bottom of the comet has burned-away too much to provide confinement...this is how jetting problems result.

But what about the compatability of straight 70/30 flash and the visco fuse? I do not have any dichromate or whatever it is to keep it from having any reactions with the fuse or will that not be a problem? :ph34r:

Posted
I see no need for dichromate, nor why to use it? Flash and visco should not be a problem, though. If you are using magnesium for your flash, however, it will be much more sensitive. If you want to treat magensium it is only necessary to coat with dichromate if mixed mith ammonium perchlorate, else linseed will do.
Posted
I see no need for dicromate, nor why to use it? Flash and visco should not be a problem, though. If you are using magnesium for your flash, however, it will be much more sensitive. If you want to treat magensium it is only necessary to coat with dichromate if mixed mith ammonium perchlorate, else linseed will do.

Pudi,

 

Naww im using staright 70 perc. 20 D. Alum. Guess ill be making another purchase from Wolter for 3/4 end disks.

 

 

Ohby the way Pudi... Do you live on here. Lol

Posted
Do you live on here

Denmark? :lol:

Sorry, I didn't get it!

Posted
Do you live on here

Denmark? :lol:

Sorry, I didn't get it!

I meant that everytime im on here your already here hence why i said you live here.

 

 

You live in Denmark huh thats interesting because i just got done watching a video on youtube on the Enschede explosion. Thats was horrendous!!!

Posted

2000 psi for a crossette!!! Sheesh i only pressed mine by hand, I guess that is FAR TOO little of an amount!! :angry:

 

I currently do not have a press guess ill have to figure somthing out before the 4th!!

Posted

How big are your crossettes?

Smaller ones can be rammed.

Posted
I have 14mm and 25mm tools and i press them using a vice on my workbench, its not 2000 psi but it works
Posted
How big are your crossettes?

Smaller ones can be rammed.

My crossettes are 3/4"

 

 

 

Wyvern, Unfortunately i do not have a vice :unsure:


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