Arthur Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 Chinese e matches are clearly (from the hundreds I've used) made by wrapping a strip of double sided PCB with a helix of nichrome wire and immersion soldering (inc pretreatment ) it Then chopping the board and attached spiral wire into 12mm by 4mm ish tapered pieces with a single half turn of wire on each piece. Some European made igs have two wire ends simply crimped over a short straight (5mm ish ) length of resistance wire. This way the tip is lead free but they still solder the leads onto the body of the ig.
dagabu Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 Would a spot welder work better than using acid flux? I used acid flux and it soldered nichromes very nicely... My only complaint is that I can't seem to secure the wire prior to soldering... I never got good solder joints, even with Ruby Fluid so for me, yes, spot welding was by far better but I regress. Buying them is by far cheaper in the long run.
JeanaPerry Posted October 13, 2016 Posted October 13, 2016 Hi...as per my knowledge you should wrap the nichrome first, then gently crimp the nichrome into the copper with some micro serrated pliers. The nichrome as it is harder than copper gets pushed down into the copper and makes a connection that seems to work well for me. If you crimp too hard with the pliers you run the risk of shearing the nichrome if it is a fine gauge, pliers at the wrong angle,
RickyTerzis Posted September 7, 2017 Posted September 7, 2017 Hi..i am a new user here. In my case I have never soldered my e-matches. I just wrap the nichrom around one of the connections several times, then do the same with other connection and there is no need to solder. Dip it in H3 with NC and you have a ematch quickly and cheaply.
PeteyPyro Posted September 7, 2017 Posted September 7, 2017 I'd think that the chlorate might, over time and with humidity, corrode the mechanical connection to the nichrome wire. Soldering would make the connection more reliable between dissimilar metals in a potentially corrosive environment.
taiwanluthiers Posted September 26, 2017 Posted September 26, 2017 Wire wrapping yielded unreliable igniters. It sucks to have one when you need something to go off and it doesn't (even worse if it was a staging igniter). It may work for a few days and then it would refuse to work after that. Get acid based soldering paste used by plumbers. It will allow you to solder nichrome.
PeteyPyro Posted September 26, 2017 Posted September 26, 2017 (edited) I'd be sure to remove any lingering acidic Flux before applying any chlorate H3 based pyrogenic dip. Edited September 28, 2017 by PeteyPyro
AllisterF Posted September 27, 2017 Posted September 27, 2017 Has anyone considered small fishing 'leader ferrules' or 'leader sleeves' and just crimping? Or better yet twisting and crimping? They can be had for about $7/hundred domestically or only about $2/hundred delivered from Asia on Ebay, and a decent 'no name' crimp tool can be had for under $20, while cheap $5 crimpers are also available...
pyrotron Posted December 6, 2017 Posted December 6, 2017 (edited) hola a todos él fabricado esto aquí tienen el código fuente y en youtube hay un video del invento. https://github.com/reproteq/TT_16TRIGGERS_LCD16X2_PIC16F877A funciona perfectamente aqui video gracias Edited December 6, 2017 by pyrotron
WRAITH Posted February 9, 2021 Posted February 9, 2021 Old topic, but try HCl (hydrochloric acid) & silver solder or just go the stay brite silver solder kit. Get a knife & scratch the nichrome first. Never had a problem with soldering nichrome this way.
stix Posted February 9, 2021 Posted February 9, 2021 Thin Nichrome is best. What are you wanting to achieve?
stix Posted February 9, 2021 Posted February 9, 2021 https://soundcloud.com/user-566434468/machines-on-treadmills-louder-vox-v1
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