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Posted

That 12" is absurd... I like it. But it's almost a shame to make one that large, and not but the segments in a pattern.

Extra labor costs, of course, so i can se why not, but still... Damn, all that surface, it could have been crazy.

B!

MrB,

 

I work cheap let me know what types of wood and the pattern and I will make one for you. ;)

Posted

I rebuilt a 4" Serpent shell.

Posted

MrB,

 

I work cheap let me know what types of wood and the pattern and I will make one for you. ;)

 

It's a great offer, but i don't work at that... scale. Some day i wish i could justify a 2-6 inch set, but we'll see about that...

B!

Posted
Went ahead and made up 10 of the little fountains and practiced daisy-chaining them together. Used Lloyd's advice and vented the nosing and got 100% ignition. My granddaughter's birthday is in March and I plan on showing her something.
Posted (edited)

 

It's a great offer, but i don't work at that... scale. Some day i wish i could justify a 2-6 inch set, but we'll see about that...

B!

B,

 

I would give you a good deal on one of the two shown below, 3" maple and walnut segmented.

They have slight flaws in the vent holes going thru the handles. (scratch & dent sale)

Other then that they work fine as a tool.

 

post-11643-0-25377700-1451786966_thumb.jpg

 

post-11643-0-01243400-1451787020_thumb.jpg

Edited by mikeee
Posted

Aren't you just mean... The looks of the top one fascinated me already when i saw it (or a similar one?) for the first time. And vent hole flaws? As long as they vent, you can use the former, so thats a none issue.

I'm going to have to buy it for a birthday present.

B!

Posted

B,

 

Actually, I am evil. Dr. Evil.... ;)

Posted

That second one looks like ceramic. Now that's slick.

Posted (edited)

Actually, I am evil. Dr. Evil.... ;)

 

Oh... I thought i recognized that face. How is Minime?

 

 

That second one looks like ceramic.

 

You think? It's pretty for sure, but i actually think the woodgrain detract a bit. The less visual grains on the first one appeals to me. Taste is different, i guess ;- )

Anyway, i'm pretty sure the first one is off the market, baring any unforeseen crazy shipping-costs.

B!

Edited by MrB
Posted (edited)

Got the first coat of finish on the 12" segmented tool. This has a layer of maple on the top and bottom the segmented sections are comprised of wedges of pine wood to keep the weight down. This tool ended up being 35# total in weight. I will be making another large tool for another individual in a barrel stave design which will make the tool completely hollow. I made a 5" case former in a prototype barrel stave design and finished it yesterday and it went together as planned.

 

post-11643-0-33762600-1451841499_thumb.jpg

 

post-11643-0-71504100-1451841589_thumb.jpg

Edited by mikeee
Posted

Not quite as good lookin, but a lot easier to make, and, i suppose it's also lighter?

B!

Posted

MrB,

 

It was a prototype tool made of cheap wood, and it is a lot lighter in weight, the solid billet tools get quite heavy and

my arms and shoulders get sore while trying to roll bigger shell casings with a heavy tool.

 

It's not how nice your tool looks but the size of your tool that counts. ;)

Posted

The 12 looks really sweet Mike! I can't wait to get my hands on it. You sure got'er done faster than I thought you would. Great follow through on this project too!

 

:D :D :D

Posted

It's not how nice your tool looks but the size of your tool that counts. ;)

 

Aww crap, i don't even have such a tool. Now what am i gonna do?

B!

Posted

What you do as normal I would think.

Posted

Normal? NORMAL!?!¿

 

Normally has no bearing on the current situation. I have been going through life not knowing it was a PROBLEM! You have GOT TO HELP ME!

Quickly!

 

Ok. Fun time is over...I mean, after all, i was kidding.

 

@Mike: It's a lot about the looks of your tool. Size matters, but it's not the only factor. And if your going to proudly present it, it needs to look nice as well as have the right size.

If your just going to hide away, and use it when your alone, never showing your tool to anyone, then looks aren't important.

B!

Posted
Made up some green gerbs. This is my first venture into colors and it went way better than my phone camera shows. I had my Pentax kr set up to video but I chopped the bottom off the gerb.post-20116-0-05338100-1451872144_thumb.jpg
Posted (edited)

Normal? NORMAL!?!¿

 

Normally has no bearing on the current situation. I have been going through life not knowing it was a PROBLEM! You have GOT TO HELP ME!

Quickly!

 

Ok. Fun time is over...I mean, after all, i was kidding.

 

@Mike: It's a lot about the looks of your tool. Size matters, but it's not the only factor. And if your going to proudly present it, it needs to look nice as well as have the right size.

If your just going to hide away, and use it when your alone, never showing your tool to anyone, then looks aren't important.

B!

MrB,

 

Looks like I might need to make an appointment to get a bikini wax. :D

 

I usually make prototype tools out of cheaper woods and give a needy pyro a good deal when needed. I am also making a few tools for our club members to use when we are building club shells.

Edited by mikeee
Posted

Lit off a small front of white and green gerbs for my Mom. They went fine but the full size (10") didn't fire at the end. Autopsy proves I didn't pack prime around the blackmatch.

Oops!

Hand lit with visco and voila!

  • Like 1
Posted

Ran out of thick wall 1" tubes so experimented to find the length of thin wall tubes I could use for the green gerb without burn through as it's way hotter than my BP based ones. All the 8" burned through and none of the 6" did.

This comp burns almost the same rate as the BP so I'm trying put a multi-fountain wall together.

Posted

Star testing.

 

 

 

rolled some tubes.

Posted

This is the beginning of a 6", 7", 8", 10" and 12" barrel stave constructed case former set.

These will be hollow with 1-1/2" thick solid end caps with a handle attached to one end.

This will make for a light weight tool very easy to work with for the larger shells.

 

 

 

post-11643-0-04148900-1452992120_thumb.jpg

Posted

Added the center braces to each barrel so I can true the ends up on the lathe. Then I can add the end caps on both ends and move on to turning the former to the correct dimension.

 

post-11643-0-93456500-1453006087_thumb.jpg

Posted

it will be interesting to see the finished formers. they look good . have you made something like these before ? how do they hold up? I am the kinda guy that knockes thing over onto the floor. will they live thru that ?

 

memo

Posted (edited)

it will be interesting to see the finished formers. they look good . have you made something like these before ? how do they hold up? I am the kinda guy that knockes thing over onto the floor. will they live thru that ?

 

memo

Memo,

 

The barrel design with end caps which are made of 1-1/2" thick solid pieces of wood will provide plenty of strength for the tool. The end caps have a recessed step which adds strength in the attachment point to the side wall. The larger tools I use 1-1/2" thick wood staves for the side wall pieces which also increases the strength of the tool. I made a prototype 5" tool to work out the fabrication process and the tool works good. The wood type used will also determine the overall strength of the tool. I am making these tools out of pine for our Pyro club members to use. I usually make case formers out of maple or walnut wood which will also make for a stronger nicer looking tool.

 

Mike

Edited by mikeee
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