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Posted
Made 36-2" cyl shells today. Loaded with 1/4" Buttered popcorn, most of these will be used as inserts once the second spike/paste layer are applied.

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  • Like 1
Posted

'Made "mounting rails" for dipper chucks, for coating comets. To be honest, it was the most difficult machining task I've ever done!

 

It took me about an hour to generate the code to do it, and then it appeared that it would take 2:45:00 to do each of six parts!

 

It took me from 9am until 2:47pm to figure out how to reduce the machining time to about 16 minutes per part!

 

DANG! I figured I'd be done with all those parts by about 11 am, and on to something else... but no! The whole day was used up making six stupidly-simple mounting rails. Oh, well... I kept good notes. It won't happen again!

 

Lloyd

Posted

i think this is one of the nices shells ive made so far , it did exaclty what i wanted it to do

 

i also had a 3 inch shell go off on the ground tonight but meh i dont even care after getting that one shell just the way i wanted it

  • Like 2
Posted

and the not so good

 

" heads up "

Posted (edited)

last post form me and prolly last shells for a while again

 

cam 2 theres arent bad for a super cheap consumer shell picked up 3 boxes of theese for 39.99

 

cam 1

 

 

bad lift cam 2

 

good 3 inch cam 2 i may have got over zelous with the lift charge , though i guess my bp just keeps getting better

Edited by RiderX
Posted

Tested a whistle rocket with 10% Ti sponge for tail and a small payload of crackling microstars.

 

 

 

  • Like 3
Posted

Tested a whistle rocket with 10% Ti sponge for tail and a small payload of crackling microstars.

 

 

 

nice someday i want to try whistle and strobe rockets

Posted

Finished making the screens.

 

Screens II

Screens I

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Finished making the screens.

 

 

 

You don't sandwich the mesh with wood on top as well?

 

Also, nice 09 mesh, heh.

Posted

I used ¼ round for a top on my screens. It makes it easy to rake the comp back in and iff you stack a couple for classifying it directs the material back down if it happens to move to the edge. I put a coat of urethane on before assembly then two more coats afterward with some self adhesive floor cover over the screen. I like being able to clean my screens with the garden hose without worrying about rust or the wood getting wet since the staples holding the screen are under the strips and are sealed with liquid nails.

Posted (edited)

i ordered some supplies today most just 2x3 1/8th wall tubes for making canister shells going to try my hand at a dbl and tripple break canister shell , i think a tripple might be to large for my tubes though might need to just get some 2.5 tube and make my own at about 24-28 inches long

 

unless u guys tell me a aprox 12 inch long shell is safe to fire out of an 18inch long tube

Edited by RiderX
Posted

I'm not quite sure how 3 shells that are 3" long would be 12" long overall, but you'll be fine. I've fired shells that stuck out of the gun before. You wont want to fire this from a warm gun, or reload it very much. As you get to even larger caliber shells, you do have to start thinking about mortar material, strength, and construction method.

 

Have you tried hand rolling casings? Most cylindrical shells are made this way and is where more of the knowledge lies. Hardwalled casings are more suited to commercial techniques developed for economic reasons such as stringless and flashbag broken shells. The performance can still be good, but they're not as well known in the amateur world. These techniques are also not quite as well suited to multi-break shells.

Posted (edited)

I'm not quite sure how 3 shells that are 3" long would be 12" long overall, but you'll be fine. I've fired shells that stuck out of the gun before. You wont want to fire this from a warm gun, or reload it very much. As you get to even larger caliber shells, you do have to start thinking about mortar material, strength, and construction method.

 

Have you tried hand rolling casings? Most cylindrical shells are made this way and is where more of the knowledge lies. Hardwalled casings are more suited to commercial techniques developed for economic reasons such as stringless and flashbag broken shells. The performance can still be good, but they're not as well known in the amateur world. These techniques are also not quite as well suited to multi-break shells.

3 inch long shells x3 =9 inches + 1 inch spacers between shells =11 + lift charge sitting below it

 

was going to make it like a peanut type shell instead of stackling them directly ontop of each other , just trying to figure out how to fuse the middle shell but i have a pretty good idea on how to do that

 

i have rolled a few so far , ive had better luck using commercially available tubes

 

 

and

 

 

both of those are bp broken and comercial tubes

Edited by RiderX
Posted

I could be wrong here Rider but I assumed Mumbles was reffering to rolled, spiked, pasted and layered cylinder shells.

 

But bravo, I'm surprized they turned out so well with hand rolled hard shell paper cases.

Posted (edited)

I could be wrong here Rider but I assumed Mumbles was reffering to rolled, spiked, pasted and layered cylinder shells.

 

But bravo, I'm surprized they turned out so well with hand rolled hard shell paper cases.

thanks those 2 vids werent hand rolled tubes though , those were tubes i had bought, the new tubes i just bought should be alot better then the ones i used in those 2 vids

lmao i tried to send that first one into low earth orbit

 

i tried a rolled spiked pasted shell it sucked

Edited by RiderX
Posted (edited)

ive also learned u cant boost the shell when using these tubes

 

if nothing else i can make awesome tails

Edited by RiderX
Posted

Are you using cardboard tubes for cylinder casings? I think if you roll them from paper like Fulcanelli specifies you'll get better breaks.

Posted (edited)

Are you using cardboard tubes for cylinder casings? I think if you roll them from paper like Fulcanelli specifies you'll get better breaks.

spiral wound tubes , they work alot better then the parallel wound ones atleast that i have tried , im getting decent breaks with them so im going to keep playing with them for a lil bit

 

rolling my own is to much of a pain in the butt right now

Edited by RiderX
Posted

been moving crap around all day making myself a dedicated workspace , and putting up shelving for supplies

im sure ill pay for it later though my shoulder is already killing me as it is

Posted

Rider,

'Organization' of your supplies is the BEST thing you can do. Presently, due to business (and now weather) considerations, all of my chemicals are back in boxes, in a store-room. I cannot WAIT to get back to the pyro shop with the purpose of re-organizing them as I had before all this crap started.

 

Lloyd

Posted

I'm constantly reorganizing the deck chairs on my little Titanic shop. Dolly Parton once quipped about fitting her bosom into that sequined dress as cramming 50lbs of mud in a 10lb sack. That fits my little shed to a tee!

Here's just one wall:

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I'm constantly reorganizing the deck chairs on my little Titanic shop. Dolly Parton once quipped about fitting her bosom into that sequined dress as cramming 50lbs of mud in a 10lb sack. That fits my little shed to a tee!

Here's just one wall:

attachicon.gifIMG_20170214_3256.jpg

i i have 3,000 ft of work space on the farm+ and underground shipping container for storage , if my work space ever gets to small im in trouble

Edited by RiderX
Posted (edited)

Mine's 12 x 12.

Edited by OldMarine
Posted

Mine's 80x100, but not all enclosed (about 1200 sq. ft., so far). I'm walling-off another 560 sq.ft. this next month (after 4F).

 

Lloyd

Posted

Mine's 12 x 12.

ouch thats gota be rough

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