rogeryermaw Posted October 1, 2017 Posted October 1, 2017 Calculations leading to titration and subsequent neutralization followed by crystallization.
OldMarine Posted October 4, 2017 Posted October 4, 2017 Walked in the pyro shed tonight and decided a tornado must have hit. Spent the evening consolidating and repackaging things and gained 2 shelves. Of course this means I have to immediately buy some stuff to fill them.
rogeryermaw Posted October 4, 2017 Posted October 4, 2017 All this work just to get put on hold...damn burn ban...gimme some rain!!
OldMarine Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 Milled the BP and got everything ready to pull a batch of match tomorrow or this weekend. Going to try pulling 2 thicknesses at once from the machine and stagger them on my frames. I love my thin stuff but I want some fatter match for some purposes.
starxplor Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 Milled the BP and got everything ready to pull a batch of match tomorrow or this weekend. Going to try pulling 2 thicknesses at once from the machine and stagger them on my frames. I love my thin stuff but I want some fatter match for some purposes. Which machine are you using for blackmatch?
OldMarine Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 http://www.woodysrocks.com/store/p111/Black_Match_Machine.html
starxplor Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 I noticed on the page for that machine this image. Is that a common way to match timefuse? I have always heard of cutting or punching, not tying over the end.http://www.woodysrocks.com/uploads/7/1/1/3/71138821/s915033251272547339_p111_i2_w646.jpeg 1
lloyd Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 (edited) Patrick, That's a 'short cut' a lot of Chinese manufacturers have used off and on, with less success than cutting and/or punching. Some amateurs resort to that, also, with varying success. Some swear by it, others tried it once and immediately abandoned the method. I don't like it, because just the act of cleaving the match square like that can smear tar across the powder train. Lloyd Edited October 5, 2017 by lloyd
lloyd Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 "Pyro-related", even though not pyro... Had to get on the shop roof after dark last night to replace all the visqueen with blue tarps and many more roofing nails. We have rain predicted all day, today, and after two days of 25mph+ gusty winds, the visqueen was full of holes! I've so-far saved about 90% of my jute stock, and I am not going to lose it now, due to some laziness or aversion to roofs! And, for pyro, worked on a new polymer coating machine for pyro effects, signed agreements to work on designs and approvals for another company, and worked down a list of 'to-dos' on an existing patent-in-progress for a new pyro device, for a client. Lloyd 1
starxplor Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017 Patrick, That's a 'short cut' a lot of Chinese manufacturers have used off and on, with less success than cutting and/or punching. Some amateurs resort to that, also, with varying success. Some swear by it, others tried it once and immediately abandoned the method. I don't like it, because just the act of cleaving the match square like that can smear tar across the powder train. Lloyd How did you know my mother wanted to name me Patrick but my dad didn't like the name?
OldMarine Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017 How did you know my mother wanted to name me Patrick but my dad didn't like the name?Lloyd always assumes I'm the one asking newbie questions. I don't mind since I respect my elders and take their foibles and eccentricities in stride. Plus I think he believes me to be a bit dense since I was a Marine so we get detailed answers!
lloyd Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017 So, let me explain this so even you can understand! <snicker> Lloyd
OldMarine Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017 Lloyd, I aim to drink a beer with you before you need a bib.
fckiamdead Posted October 7, 2017 Posted October 7, 2017 I noticed on the page for that machine this image. Is that a common way to match timefuse? I have always heard of cutting or punching, not tying over the end.http://www.woodysrocks.com/uploads/7/1/1/3/71138821/s915033251272547339_p111_i2_w646.jpegI use this method all the time, never ever had any fail. //
OldMarine Posted October 7, 2017 Posted October 7, 2017 I tried both punching and top-hatting the TF and neither was reliable for me. I split and tie the match in only now. Some swear by the punch method but I'm not buying a $75 machine when I can get a box of razor blades for $3.
PeteyPyro Posted October 7, 2017 Posted October 7, 2017 (edited) I tried both punching and top-hatting the TF and neither was reliable for me. I split and tie the match in only now. Some swear by the punch method but I'm not buying a $75 machine when I can get a box of razor blades for $3.OM, I just slit it, BM, and tie it too. I use a SHARP rectangular razor blade, avoid any sawing back and forth which can smear tar or disturb the core, and carefully slit the TF straight down to the aluminum stop at the back edge of the razor blade. That distance is 1/2" and with slits on each end, that's 1" that I add to my measurement of the TF. Edited October 7, 2017 by PeteyPyro 1
OldMarine Posted October 7, 2017 Posted October 7, 2017 Exactly how I do it as well. My spollette timing is coming along well so hopefully i can abandon the TF before long.
OldMarine Posted October 7, 2017 Posted October 7, 2017 (edited) It rained off and on today so I sat in the shop and pressed up 2 lbs of D1 glitter into ½" crossettes so I have plenty to use to dial the burst in. Tried using 70/30 flash and they made nice little reports and also tried sali whistle which seemed a bit weak. I plan on finding a mix of the two that will work and expect to have a ball trying.Just counted them and it's 290± a few. Edited October 8, 2017 by OldMarine
NeighborJ Posted October 8, 2017 Posted October 8, 2017 (edited) Patrick I've had good luck with OFCA burst in inserts, it ignites stars well and gives quite a nice report as well. I've not tried it in crossettes but it would seem to be the ideal candidate for such a task. On another note, I quit my job yesterday so now ill have some free time to pyro. I spent the day building shelves in the new workshop and pulling all my pyro crap out of storage to stock the shelves. Damn I'm gonna need to build more shelves. I will only have a small window of time before I choose the next employer so I'm trying to make the most of it. ROCKETS, I NEED to press some rockets.😨 Edited October 8, 2017 by NeighborJ 1
OldMarine Posted October 8, 2017 Posted October 8, 2017 Hmm, milder than flash with more oomph than whistle. I'll try it tomorrow!
pirotek Posted October 8, 2017 Posted October 8, 2017 check the new composition Barium peroxide BaO2 (80%) and fine MgAl powder (20%)
lloyd Posted October 8, 2017 Posted October 8, 2017 Be careful, there! Barium peroxide in combination with aluminum or mg/al can be friction-sensitive, and also sensitive to water, causing spontaneous combustion! That's a dangerous mix! Lloyd 1
lloyd Posted October 8, 2017 Posted October 8, 2017 PS... although it is "insoluble" in water, it is caused to decompose upon exposure to water (read this as "humidity"). Lloyd
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