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Posted
We're having a decent day weather wise so I'm finally going to try mixing up some whistle mix to try in my 1/2 and 3/8 rockets. The 1/2 are so fast with just BP that I can't wait to not see them launch with whistle. They are fast!
Posted
Good luck on the whistle journey. I got a feeling your gonna get hooked
Posted (edited)

Made a nice discovery while getting things ready to go with the whistle mix. My bucket screens fit perfectly on a 10-1/2" stainless bowl:

 

post-20116-0-77507700-1486231869_thumb.jpg

Edited by OldMarine
  • Like 1
Posted

I think you may have your video set to private.

Oh snap! There was an error and it didnt publish properly. It shoulde be working now hopefully.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

It's working now and you're right. I didn't see any green in that video though the red was very apparent.

 

Edit: Got my first ever batch of Sali whistle (250gm) riced and drying:

 

post-20116-0-01360400-1486247901_thumb.jpg

Edited by OldMarine
Posted

MDF? very stable stuff but I bet it's heavy in the larger sizes. Hmmmm, got me thinking...

 

Thanks Mark!

 

 

Hey Dave,

 

I made a quick blog about this for APC.

 

Mark

Posted

Maybe some day you could work with a chem like this:

"Hexanitro? Say what? I’d call for all the chemists who’ve ever worked with a hexanitro compound to raise their hands, but that might be assuming too much about the limb-to-chemist ratio."

http://blogs.sciencemag.org/pipeline/archives/2011/11/11/things_i_wont_work_with_hexanitrohexaazaisowurtzitane

 

 

I really love how these compounds' diagrams look drawn out. I found my old sketch pad where from a few years ago, laughably bad but they're fun:

 

http://imgur.com/a/oXIh0

 

I particularly like the Diphoronpentaperoxide and the Triethylaluminum.

 

Another I find visually striking is 1-diazidocarbamoyl-5-azidotetrazole (C2N14) and the other azidotetrazoles.

Posted

Stayed up way too late pressing up and shooting rockets tonight. Had to cut off the launches at the kiddies bedtime but I went ahead and pressed a dozen for testing tomorrow.

Posted

Got a start on a set of Teak wood insert formers for a customer. My new favorite wood to work with

pretty wood grain and finishes nicely with an oil finish.

 

 

post-11643-0-17425300-1486348884_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Got a start on a set of Teak wood insert formers for a customer. My new favorite wood to work with

pretty wood grain and finishes nicely with an oil finish.

 

 

attachicon.gifTeak Insert Formers1.jpg

Looks very nice.

What are the horizontal lines for? Is it just art, or do they serve a purpose?

Posted

Um... I think you should look at them again, Ubehage! Those 'horizontal lines' actually have a name.<grin>

 

Lloyd

  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

Hey Dave,

 

I made a quick blog about this for APC.

 

Mark

Nice blog, very easy build for huge formers! Thank you.
Posted (edited)

Um... I think you should look at them again, Ubehage! Those 'horizontal lines' actually have a name.<grin>

 

Lloyd

Right. Perhaps I shouldn't ask questions in here at 4 in the morning :D

Edited by Ubehage
Posted

Roll stars, roll stars roll stars. 6 more colors to go.

Posted (edited)

Got a start on a set of Teak wood insert formers for a customer. My new favorite wood to work with

pretty wood grain and finishes nicely with an oil finish.

 

Teak looks nice, but don't get splinters! That stuff is an irritant, but I guess not as bad as Western Red Cedar: http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/

It dulls tools fairly quickly, too.

Edited by BlueComet24
Posted

There are plenty of wood types that have their share of problems.

Breathing any wood dust in will do you in over time.

My worst wood event was on an industrial table saw hit a hard knot that exploded and sent

a piece through my knuckle joint, that took a long time to heal but works fine today.

Some people will develop allergies to common wood types when they work with them over time.

Posted

Been building new frames for my drying-box, with hooks instead of a screen for blackmatch.

My fingers hurt like sh*t from screwing all those hooks!

Posted

Finished DBY on an 80mm mortar hit injection-molded base, and today designing an injection-molded base for 60mm aerials.

 

Both are re-designs of another's work, in order to save weight of plastic, lift powder, and complexity of assembly.

 

Lloyd

Posted

made sum comp a little experiment with a tiger willow comp with sum added metals

Posted

85' 2 strand black match NG style.

Posted
Good as place as any for a first post on APC. I made some charcoal tonight out of white ash tree we cut down last year used the branches of 2-4"s round, de barked and in the fire, I am making some more tomorrow with some black willow trimming we just did few weeks ago, made enough ash charcoal tonight to last for next couple years worth of pyro'ing.
Posted (edited)

MudDuck, if I've learned nothing else in pyro I've learned what you think will last years? Won't!

When I bought my first 50lb bag of KNO3 I thought I was set for life but here I am 2 years and 250 lbs later needing to get another bag!

Even making my own charcoal I still buy it when I can so I don't have to spend too much precious time on it rather than making fireworks.

Edited by OldMarine
  • Like 1
Posted
You are correct oldmarine I said the same thing when started making fireworks a few years back I made 2-1 gallon zip lock bags full of charcoal and told my wife 'hell this should be enough to last me till next year, rite' huh that couldn't have been further from the truth lol. I now a kiln for making charcoal it is a 25gal. Barrel inside a 60 gal barrel and I cut all my wood in 1"x1" squares and stack it to the top less the 2.5" pipe that runs down the middle of it it hold quite a load and I filled it 3 times yesterday with white ash now comes the fun part of turning it into airfloat, a nice job for the kids to handle. It should last a lil while any how but if not I'm just a few hours away from another batch.
Posted

in the last few days i have made a 5 gallon batch of erc charcoal from shavings in my retort and made a paint can tlud to experiment with. if i can tune it to my liking i will build a bigger one but there are a ton of threads and lots of misinformation concerning tuning the airflow holes. is there a good thread here that shows the equations to tune airflow?

Posted

The number of holes punched in the bottom depends on the diameter and height of the flue stack.

It is best to punch a number of holes and add additional holes each batch you cook until you get

the performance you are looking for. If your batch of shaving go out after lighting you need more

holes punched in the bottom or additional holes punched in the collar at the base of the flue stack.

You can always start with small diameter holes and ream them out a little if you think you need

more air flow in the bottom or the collar.

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