calebkessinger Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Sorry, I should have explained it better. spanish booster35 pot. nitrate35 pot. perc30 dark alum flake 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Sorry, I should have explained it better. spanish booster35 pot. nitrate35 pot. perc30 dark alum flakeThanks much. I am going to make some today and give in a try. I had about decided it was something like green flash -perc 6, bano3 3, dark alumiinum 5But it is quite different. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebkessinger Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 I believe that the alum is just suppose to be dark but not german or indian. I think I just have american dark or something and it works fine. I actually add 1 part of sulfer to mine. ( didn't want to confuse you with the strange things I do) my formula just goes 1-1-1-1 I don't know if it's silly or anything, I never asked, but it does work for me and is pretty darn cheap to make. I just go ahead and use it in everything, salutes/lampare's and all. Why not. It makes a nice thump. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 (edited) I made some 35/35/30 using German dark. Tested 3 grams. It sounded toned down compared to 70/30. Very similar to the sound of green flash. 2 or 3 grams should work perfectly in a 3 inch shell with about 5 grams of benzolift. My stars are always primed and I sprinkle a little meal-d in the spaces just for good measure. Personally I do not like the sound of 70/30- I prefer something lower pitched and yours is just right. I only make small shells with 3 being the largest. I make 2.5 and even 1.9. I am chicken of anything bigger than 3. But I am working on symmetrical patterns now but I am limited to cut stars. I realize the benefits of rolled stars but as of yet I don't have the equipment. Thanks Edited December 9, 2014 by Merlin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebkessinger Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Little shells are way harder to get to look right than the larger ones. Or should I say mistakes are not nearly as noticeable the larger the shell gets to a point. Lloyd has said they had to re-tune their burst charge in small shells every time they got a new batch of chems. This demonstrates there is a fine line between getting it to break perfectly, under breaking , or over breaking those baby shellsIf you get the burst right on the baby shells you can just bulk fill them and never look back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braddsn Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 (edited) Zpyro, flash is ok to use in shells, but ideally you shouldn't need it. First, try confining your lift in a bag and taping it tight to the bottom of the shell. Next, make sure the lift you are using is 4FA. Next, for your burst, try KP burst instead of BP burst. If you are not sure what KP burst is, do a search about it on this site.. or google "Shimizu KP burst". It is more powerful and depending on the circumstance, could be the ticket on smaller shells. And lastly, try to avoid mixing more than 10g of 70/30 at a time. And if you DO decide to boost a 3 incher with flash, don't use more than 2 or 3 grams. But I think KP burst might be your answer. Proper burst and proper pasting and you will have great results. There should be almost no clearance between your shell and mortar wall. Don't use electrical tape. Paste the shell until it is almost full size of mortar. Edited December 10, 2014 by braddsn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts