braddsn Posted November 3, 2014 Posted November 3, 2014 Hey fellas! I have cut and pumped many batches of stars and comets thus far, but have not delved into D1 yet. I have read some articles where people have stated that it's simple, and some that state that you can ruin it if you add too much moisture or something like that. Anyone have any input on this? Any truth to it? Or should I just mix and pump it like I do any other comp? I guess my question is, is there anything special about this comp that I should know about before mixing and cutting a batch?
Carbon796 Posted November 3, 2014 Posted November 3, 2014 It is said, that most glitters can be ruined by too much water, and/or staying "wet" too long. Most comps will vary some but, Generally 10% or less water should be used. So they are usually pumped. For hand ramming I'm usually at about 7%. For hydraulic pressing I'm usually at 4%. That is based on using SGRS for a binder.
Col Posted November 3, 2014 Posted November 3, 2014 4%-5% works with dex for hydraulic pressing. Over milling the chems can have an adverse affect too.
psyco_1322 Posted November 3, 2014 Posted November 3, 2014 Just make them as you would any other comp, dry them with a fan for a few days before attempting any force drying.
Oinikis Posted November 3, 2014 Posted November 3, 2014 One time I did make some cut D1 glitter stars. I did ordinary cut star making procedure, and primed them with BP. The stars had the tail and the glitter effect, thou it wasn't rich, and I think that is because I can only get my hand on brightflake aluminium, and nothing else, but even thou it worked. I think you're good to go. 1
enanthate Posted November 3, 2014 Posted November 3, 2014 If you want good D1, pump them. Thats all there is to it. Cut stars just wont be the same.Maximum 10% moisture, although 12% might work, it's not recommended unless you really have to.
psyco_1322 Posted November 3, 2014 Posted November 3, 2014 If you want good D1, pump them. Thats all there is to it. Cut stars just wont be the same.Maximum 10% moisture, although 12% might work, it's not recommended unless you really have to. If you want good D1, DFIU! There is nothing wrong with cutting glitter stars, they perform just as good, same with rolled stars.
enanthate Posted November 3, 2014 Posted November 3, 2014 (edited) Dont know what DFIU means mate, but glitter stars generally should have as little moisture to them as possible.If you're satisfied with your cut stars, then by all means... edit: For the original question I might add that, like Col said, overmilling a glittercomp can certainly ruin the effect. In fact, the glittercomps are said to be best handmixed by screens, preferably coarse in size. Each and every opinion it seems, although these "theories" (rather facts to be honest) are well tested and approved by many. Edited November 3, 2014 by enanthate
Mumbles Posted November 3, 2014 Posted November 3, 2014 DFIU = don't fuck it up. There are a lot of ways to fuck of glitters. Listening to bad advice on the internet is a great start. Cutting, rolling, and pumping will all make functioning glitters. The effects will be different from one method to another however. My personal experience is that pumping leads to a finer grained glitter, whereas cutting leads to a coarser "flashier" glitter. It's all up to personal preference. Anyone who says you can't cut glitter stars has clearly never tried it, is an idiot, or should find some better informational sources. One thing of note. I'd like to emphasize Psyco1322's mention of drying for a few days before force drying, especially when cutting. The high water content combined with heat of a drying box and some of the common delay agents can lead to an adverse reaction and ruin the stars. I do the same thing with pumped and rolled for what it's worth. If I have the time, I prefer letting them with air flow and no heat sources. To me this makes the most attractive effect no matter which method was used to make the stars. Just the act of applying heat can noticeably change the effect in some cases. 1
Bobosan Posted November 4, 2014 Posted November 4, 2014 Shimizu blue to D1, monocapa prime. Stars were 12mm, a bit larger than wanted cause I got carried away with the rolling.
braddsn Posted November 4, 2014 Author Posted November 4, 2014 Thanks for the great advice guys. I will start off with pumping some, low moisture. Then I will probably add some moisture and cut a few. To the drawing board I go! One thing I recently experienced... I cut some 'white flitter' stars. They are super bright, but barely have a tail. I wanted a long trailing tail, but there is almost no tail at all.. instead just a bright white star. The comp was very wet when I cut the stars... so maybe I wet the comp a little too much.. I am gonna experiment with it. I can see already that flitters and glitters can be a challenge!
enanthate Posted November 4, 2014 Posted November 4, 2014 Bobosan, nice stars. And cool stargun My theory suggests that you might have had a longer and longerlasting glittering tail if the glittercomp was pumped with low moisture.They still look very pretty rolled. Mumbles, who said you can't cut glitters? Be reasonable. If anyone thinks that relatively wet glitters perform "just as good" as pumped ones, i would love to see it. Im not saying you cant do it. Im saying i personally dont believe you can. Meanwhile, a good reading for those new to glitters:http://web.archive.org/web/20101222003825/http://pyroguide.com/index.php?title=Glitter_Theory Please note that i did not write that page. Any disagreements must be taken to the publisher for further discussion, as I am not interested.
Maserface Posted November 4, 2014 Posted November 4, 2014 I dont think you understand the context which the author bases the statement "Against this background glitter compositions are best made into pumped stars". It does not state that pumped stars work better than the rest, only that "excessive" (more than is necessary) amounts of water will likely cause reactions, and spoil the effect- by virtue of the process to cut stars requiring more water, it leaves less margin for error by the maker. I echo the sentiment offered by Psyco, vide supra
enanthate Posted November 4, 2014 Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) I dont think you understand the context which the author bases the statement "Against this background glitter compositions are best made into pumped stars". "Against this background glitter compositions are best made into pumped stars. The higher amount of moisture necessary for cutting will most likely damage the performance of the finished stars." Are you on drugs?edit: Remember, I did not write that page. Any disagreements must be taken to the publisher for further discussion. Edited November 4, 2014 by enanthate
rogeryermaw Posted November 4, 2014 Posted November 4, 2014 does the aluminum in glitter comps need to be treated or coated before use?
enanthate Posted November 4, 2014 Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) does the aluminum in glitter comps need to be treated or coated before use?I suggest the use of 2% boric acid in the alc/water solution, as long as the mix does not contain magnesium and/or magnalium.As you may or may not have noticed, chances are that "certain people" will disagree with me. Who you listen to is up to you. In that case, I suggest Googling the subject for more accurate information. Edit: Reading the link I posted a couple of posts up would have answered your question, and might answer other questions you might have. Edited November 4, 2014 by enanthate
rogeryermaw Posted November 4, 2014 Posted November 4, 2014 a well detailed compilation of information. thank you.
dynomike1 Posted November 4, 2014 Posted November 4, 2014 I just roll mine,and prime with fencepost. I haven't had any problems yet.
pyroMIKE Posted November 5, 2014 Posted November 5, 2014 (edited) I mill the potassium nitrates charcoal and sulfur comp together for a couple hours..Then I screen the Sodium Bicarbonate and dextrin through a 100 mesh screen then add the 325 mesh atomized aluminum (do not screen) in my container with the milled powder, then give it a good shake to thoroughly mix the ingredients.Then I weigh out 5% and slowly spray the water into the comp kneading it in.Its perfect everytime using this method.You will know you have done it right when you grab a handfull and squeeze, the comp should clump up fairly firm.This is for pumping.Makes rock hard pellets, when dry ,you can scratch with your fingernail and it wont even leave a mark.It took 148 5/8x5/8 of these stars to fill a 6 inch ball shell.I will be shooting it this Saturday.Here is the link that the vid will be on, and some build pics.http://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/10132-6in-d1-glitter-w-silver-tail-teaser/ Edited November 5, 2014 by pyroMIKE
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