MilkyJoe Posted July 19, 2008 Posted July 19, 2008 Would it have anything to do with the size of the shell? For example, I would think a 2" shell would leave the mortar faster then a larger one so it may not get as much exposure to the lifts fire? Just a thought =/
flying fish Posted July 19, 2008 Posted July 19, 2008 Actually it is the other way around - Bigger shells are sent up higher, and therefore have a higher velocity coming out of the gun (basic physics - projectile shot vertically at a higher velocity will go higher than one shot at a lower velocity). Bigger shells are also fired from longer mortars to help obtain the require velocity more efficiently and with less shock from the lift. One problem that I was having when using yellow visco as shell leaders is that occasionally sparks from the yellow visco would set off the comet too early. But if you are using QM is seems that this would be a non-issue. My rising effects usually consist of a pumped star with kraft paper wrapped and pva-glued or pasted around the lower ~70% of the star, and then hot glued to the top of the shell with the wrapped part down. Usually works... Edit: Here are my two small glitter shells from the 4th of July (second one is better). You can kind of see how I arranged the rising comet at the beginning of the video:
Yankie Posted July 21, 2008 Posted July 21, 2008 I attatched it to the top of the shell and wrapped it with a few turns of masking tape, the end was really rough as it was like a sausage and I just snapped a chunk off. I doubt that it was shattered with the lift as it was a rather weak lift and i did not see any more sparks exiting the mortar than from a normal shell. I think I will just have to try priming the next one, I am tempted to punch a hole in the QM just for security.I dont have any NC laquer (yes i know how easy it is to make) but would priming it with a meal powder slurry then dipping it in granulated bp do the same job?
Bonny Posted July 21, 2008 Posted July 21, 2008 I attatched it to the top of the shell and wrapped it with a few turns of masking tape, the end was really rough as it was like a sausage and I just snapped a chunk off. I doubt that it was shattered with the lift as it was a rather weak lift and i did not see any more sparks exiting the mortar than from a normal shell. I think I will just have to try priming the next one, I am tempted to punch a hole in the QM just for security.I dont have any NC laquer (yes i know how easy it is to make) but would priming it with a meal powder slurry then dipping it in granulated bp do the same job? As long as the comp is ok with water it will be fine, if you read some of the recent posts this was already suggested.
Zmuro Posted July 22, 2008 Posted July 22, 2008 3" canister shell with 16mm Brocades Horse Tail (Dave Buell) stars: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=ukXzA831g2g the break wasn't really symmetrical but the stars were quite nice.
FREAKYDUTCHMEN Posted July 22, 2008 Posted July 22, 2008 Very nice zmuru! I like the long hangtime of those stars. Tis formula?:Potassium Nitrate 36 Charcoal Airfloat 29 Charcoal, 80 mesh 14 Sulfur 9 Titanium, sponge, 40-80 mesh 7 Dextrin 5
Zmuro Posted July 22, 2008 Posted July 22, 2008 Very nice zmuro! I like the long hangetime of those stars. Tis formula?:Potassium Nitrate 36 Charcoal Airfloat 29 Charcoal, 80 mesh 14 Sulfur 9 Titanium, sponge, 40-80 mesh 7 Dextrin 5 Yes this is the formula.
flying fish Posted July 22, 2008 Posted July 22, 2008 3" canister shell with 16mm Brocades Horse Tail (Dave Buell) stars: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=ukXzA831g2g the break wasn't really symmetrical but the stars were quite nice. Stop making such obnoxiously good shells! You are making the rest of us look bad. /jk. Now I'm even more tempted to go out and buy some Titanium. I wonder if flake Ti can be substituted for the Sponge and still achieve a spectacular result? I'm not sure how easy it will be to obtain sponge Ti. My only other concern - how much glowing fallout that made it to the ground, or was most of it out by then?
nath0r Posted July 22, 2008 Posted July 22, 2008 That shell was brilliant! i really liked the long hangtime of the stars, definately a formula i want to try out sometime
qwezxc12 Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 Beautiful brocade stars! I've seen the formula (also known as Dave Buell's "Slow Gold"), but never them in action. I'm inspired.
marks265 Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 Thank you zmuro! You made my night with that! I know where my next TI project lies!
flying fish Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 I can just see the headline: "Youtube video leads to global Titanium shortage."
Zmuro Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 Thanks for all comments. I was quite surprised myself about the stars, when I light them on the ground there was no sparks at all. Stars were made with star plate and then primed with meal slurry.@flying fish - the glowing sparks didn't burn to the ground Here video of better quality: http://shrani.si/f/3j/jD/420rrZQM/shell71.wmv
Gunzway Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 I am definitely trying that composition.Great shell there Zmuro!It will be interesting to see more shells with this composition.
flying fish Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 @flying fish - the glowing sparks didn't burn to the ground Thanks! That is very encouraging that such a long hanging willow can work without fallout. It seems that some people don't mind if a bunch of flaming stuff lands on the ground, especially when working with willow formulas. But for me it is always a plus if everything is out before it hits the ground . Not that fallout problems would prevent me from trying to make the formula even if it was an issue .
nath0r Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 I've just ordered some Titanium so as soon as it arrives i will be whipping up a batch of these stars. just need to grind up some of my pine charcoal to 80 mesh now
FREAKYDUTCHMEN Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 Thanks for all comments. I was quite surprised myself about the stars, when I light them on the ground there was no sparks at all. Stars were made with star plate and then primed with meal slurry.@flying fish - the glowing sparks didn't burn to the ground Here video of better quality: http://shrani.si/f/3j/jD/420rrZQM/shell71.wmv I'dd love to see that in a 5 or 6 inch shell!
Zmuro Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 I already made 6" round shell with this stars, yesterday morning, just don't yet when I'm going to fired it.
Richtee Posted July 23, 2008 Posted July 23, 2008 Nice bright red comet there, richtee. Looks like it burned for a while after the burst, too. If so, I'd say it was one tough comet. And the shell wasn't bad either.Here's a pict of the poly glue self adhesive rising comet primed with coarse BP on a 3" shell http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/20416504342.jpg]Poly Comet[/url]
Mumbles Posted July 24, 2008 Posted July 24, 2008 I can speak from experience that 3/4" slow gold stars are WAAAAAY too big for a 6" shell. I made them for an 8" shell, but I think they're more appropriate for a 12". The 8" is an outer petal of slow gold, and an inner petal of blue. Should be fired in about a month. As all good fireworks of mine though it will likely escape getting on video one way or another though. The stars looked pretty at least. Pretty as they burned to 20 feet off the ground. And pretty as the hanging sparks collided with trees to give a bunch of nice little Ti flashes.
psyco_1322 Posted July 27, 2008 Posted July 27, 2008 Yah Ive been told that slow gold is some very slow burning tricky stuff. The only thing stopping me is the Ti, but I'll get some in a few weeks at the convention. I seen several slow gold shells last year at the convention, big ones. They burnt clear to the ground and the whole grandstands and everything was pelted with glowing embers and Ti. It actually might have been whole stars also. They all missed me but the guy in front of me got one on top of the head, lol, and he didnt even realize it. So make em small and go from there. Mumbles your probably right with the 12" shell. You better get a video or we all are going to vote ban you off
mormanman Posted July 27, 2008 Posted July 27, 2008 Is there a way to make pasting easier? I doubt it though.Maybe, could I use paper tape like wallpaper or masking tape?Paper tape I think would work best though.
qwezxc12 Posted July 27, 2008 Posted July 27, 2008 Why re-invent the wheel? If you don't like traditional craft/wheat paste pasting, used gummed tape. Masking tape does not have the required tensile strength to provide the necessary confinement for traditional paper shells, and I'm sure that wallpaper tape would also disappoint. I've used both 60lb. re-enforced gummed tape (six effective layers) and 30lb standard gummed tape (10-12 effective layers) on plastic 4in - 8in shells (with various boosters or plain BP on carrier) with good results. Prior to that I tried fiberglass strapping tape in various patterns, but struggled to get good, symmetrical breaks. Gummed tape pasting has worked great for me. http://www.apcforum.net/files/6inC6toYellowtaping.jpg http://www.apcforum.net/files/2008-7-5-Shells.jpg Is there a way to make pasting easier? I doubt it though.Maybe, could I use paper tape like wallpaper or masking tape?Paper tape I think would work best though.
nath0r Posted July 27, 2008 Posted July 27, 2008 I would have to agree with the above post. It can get very tedeous pasting layer after layer of craft onto shells, but I really wouldn't want to do it any other way. Pasting creates a nice strong shell and also if done with care can make for a great looking shell also (not that this really matters but it's always a bonus )
Richtee Posted July 27, 2008 Posted July 27, 2008 (edited) Why re-invent the wheel? If you don't like traditional craft/wheat paste pasting, used gummed tape. I have been using the standard paper, but sprayed with contact adhesive. The 3M 77 is good, but $15+ a can. 3M also makes a "corner bead" spray adhesive for drywall work... 1/3 the price and equal to the task at hand. I cut strips of paper the appropriate width, lay them out close together and dust them with the spray. Then I take the plastic hemi, mask off the fuse and dust it. Wrap... till covered. Compress tight with palm pressure. Another coat of the spray on the shell...etc....repeat. NO drying time to speak of. I can go from nekkid hemi to launch in 15 min. Works VERY well IMHO. Edited July 27, 2008 by Richtee
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