Pretty green flame Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 Hello With what do you guys preserve your wheat paste for pasting shells, i hear it goes sour after a few days. Wold copper salts (CuSO4?) or Sod. Benzoate work for this purpose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mephistos Minion Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 I use Dettol. It is an antibacterial liquid that you put on cuts to stop infection. It's brown and very common in AUS. Other things such as Pine-O-Clean work too. Bastically anyything that will kill the bacteria that is responsible for the souring of your paste. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted March 12, 2006 Author Share Posted March 12, 2006 I keep my paste at a low temperature of minus a few degrees celcius. It stays good for few weeks, after that it starts to adopt a small stench.I usually use it a while longer though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 I keep my paste at a low temperature of minus a few degrees celcius. It stays good for few weeks, after that it starts to adopt a small stench.I usually use it a while longer though.When I do that to my wheat paste it changes consistency to where I can't use it. Do you just bring back up to room temperature slowly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSidewinder Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 Everything I've read says to use it within a day or two, as it can't be easily kept. It ferments awfully fast. For insect control, pyros used to add a percent or two of Paris Green (Copper Acetoarsenite) to the paste. Once the shell is pasted and dry, insects won't eat it. Not sure how well that would work to keep the paste from fermenting, but it should if that's what's happening to you. Keep in mind that if you do this the mix is quite poisonous, even when dry, because of the Arsenic. Using regular Kraft (untreated) for the final wrap when adding the lift charge would minimize (eliminate?) the possibility of getting dried paste residue on your hands. This was only done if the shells were to be stored for a while, as otherwise various bugs would eat the dry paste and the paper it impregnated. M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted March 12, 2006 Author Share Posted March 12, 2006 I keep my paste at a low temperature of minus a few degrees celcius. It stays good for few weeks, after that it starts to adopt a small stench.I usually use it a while longer though.When I do that to my wheat paste it changes consistency to where I can't use it. Do you just bring back up to room temperature slowly? Be carefull that you dont freeze it. When the paste has become thicker during time, I usually take the ammount I need and mix it with a small amount of hot water in a differet container. That way the paste is still usable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 I tried adding water to it, but it made it the consitency of stiff, lumpy oatmeal. I gues hot water is the key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al93535 Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 My newest shell... Waiting for my burst to dry to make my 6" ball and 4" can shell. Its a 4" winokur 39 glitter. BP on rice crispies, 1 gram of flash. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/al9...in39glitter.jpg Video to follow soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Givat Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Your shells just get more and more like the bought ones.How much time did you spent working on this shell? roughly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al93535 Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Thanks! Well, Making the hemi's: 5 minutesStars: 30 minutes (made way more then I needed though.) Probably 12-15 minutes for the amount I used.Assembly: 8-10 minutes.Pasting total: 15 minutes.Attaching the lift cup and QM: 2 minutes Of course then there is the making Black match, and the pipe, making lift and so on. So I would say a total of like 45 minutes to an hour. Of course with drying glue and stars it takes longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Time isn't the greatest factor. Cost on the other hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ULTRABUF Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 You can coat rice crispies in BP for lift charge?! As in the cereal?Awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquaman Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Yeah and its very popular. You can use other things like grass seeds and puffed rice. Rice Hulls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted March 16, 2006 Author Share Posted March 16, 2006 Coated hulls or rice crispies work suprisingly well for lifting shells, but they are mainly used as burst. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ULTRABUF Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 Dude thats crazy! I knew you could coat rice hulls and whatnot for burst charges but rice crispies never even entered the faintest twisted corridors of my imagination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBang Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 Yeah, I know how you fell, but they do met all the specification needed for burst/lift. They are light and they have a nice sized surface area. And it is nice and cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquaman Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 And they're good tasting!... (without the BP of course) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 If you get creative you can use all sorts of things. Puffed rice's sruface area makes it burst so well, why wouldn't it work for lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankRizzo Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 Puffed rice is good for ball shells 6" and larger because you're mainly just looking to fill the available space. For smaller shells, you really want to use rice or barley *hulls* instead. They allow more powder to be put into the shell for the bursting vs. just being a flammable filler material. If you have a home brewing store nearby, rice and/or barely hulls are *extremely* cheap...cheaper than rice krispies even. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Puffed rice is good for ball shells 6" and larger because you're mainly just looking to fill the available space. For smaller shells, you really want to use rice or barley *hulls* instead. They allow more powder to be put into the shell for the bursting vs. just being a flammable filler material. If you have a home brewing store nearby, rice and/or barely hulls are *extremely* cheap...cheaper than rice krispies even.Thats to much of a blanket statement. It depends on what you want to achieve. Puffed rice can get a good coat of BP on it, so you can get a good break from it. Having more in there also adds to the weight which can be undesirable. I also say this from my standpoint. For breaking my 2 " shells I use whistle mix, and for my 3" shells FP. All I need is a shell filler, but not at the cost of the extra weight. Even still, using just BP coated puffed rice breaks my shells nicely. Alot depends on how good your BP is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 http://www.apcforum.net/files/3nnaerialsalute.wmv Anything else I think I will save for entering into the competition. Once all of the rules, regulations, and standards are put into place. Video doesn't really do these justice. Using these as a finale is just awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pretty green flame Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 Very nice boom, just a suggestion, leave the camera running a couple of seconds after the boom so we can hear the echoe after it's gone off, you can edit the unwanted part later. How much flash went into that shell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al93535 Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 Another 6" shell on the way, here are the construction pics: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/al93535/6newhemi.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/al93535/6newstars.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/al93535/6newburst.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/al93535/6newshell.jpg Same stars as before because I have so many. Green to red to dragons eggs. with a pistil of glitter. I will try to get better video with a new camera this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 Very nice boom, just a suggestion, leave the camera running a couple of seconds after the boom so we can hear the echoe after it's gone off, you can edit the unwanted part later. How much flash went into that shell?Yeah thats what I did. The unwanted part was everyone screaming, which completely overpowered the echo. It was substantial though. 20 grams of flash were used for it, with flour as a filler around the inner tube to make it heavier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted March 20, 2006 Author Share Posted March 20, 2006 Very nice Al! Can't wait to see that thing goign off. Do you plan to participate in the competitions with any shells? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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