frogy Posted June 14, 2008 Share Posted June 14, 2008 Ceramic stores are amazing places... I can get nearly every basic pyro chemical I need from my local ceramics stores... Here's there materials list...http://www.standardceramic.com/materials.html Hell, they even have KNO3 and NaNO3 Off-Topic:Is $10 for 8 oz of Glycerine cheap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 No thats kind expensive for glycerine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmuro Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 My first canister shell with good break: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=XMn3n35V9Po Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogy Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 That was an amazing shell... Nice break. To bad 2 crossettes were blown blind. The one of the top right seemed to have blown 2 of the 4 shards blind. Still very nice... I'm going to be making some shells soon, I have all of next week off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSidewinder Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 That was a very nice shell. And your first? Good job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwezxc12 Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 Not to jump on the bandwagon, but very nice shell. Great break and timing. The 2 crossettes really didn't detract from the shell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 I don't think blew blind is the correct terminology. Jetted is probably more appropriate. If you watch the video, the charge inside defintely goes off. With flash breaks, it's pretty easy to tell. I have to agree though, very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 I would say some jetted also. Did you label that shell right? It looked more like win20 crossettes and some D1 for a center. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmuro Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 The win20 composition was ballmilled to long so it didn't produce any glitter, because it burnt to fast. There ware also some white stars in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskarchem Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 You ballmilled it without the Aluminium right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pretty green flame Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 You ballmilled it without the Aluminium right? I belive Zmuro has enough experience not to do something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmuro Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 You ballmilled it without the Aluminium right? Winokur 20 has magnalium in it not aluminium and yes i ball mill it without magnalium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Maybe the wrong thread but it applies here too. I use winokur 20 as well but the only way that I have gotten it to work correctly for my pressed stars is by upping the bicarbonate from 5 to 12 and it gives an amazing glitter that I haven't seen before. When I roll the original composition I get more of a strobe star. Glitters are strange. If you still have composition that you feel you ball milled too long then try experimenting in small batches with addition of bicarbonate. I brought it up from 5 to 20 which gave a great glitter but created slag and the stars would burn for way to long ( which might be a cool idea for a 6" shell). When I backed it down to 12 parts it was perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 Ummm, I dont think that Win20 requires ball milling at all. Ive made it without ball milling, as there was no instructions to, and it performed perfect. They were also cut stars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 Because glitters depend heavily on particle size it varies. I grind my own C and don't go through the effort of sizing airfloat from granular (any of you who grind your own C understand why). My KNO3 also is granular. I ball mill my winoker 20 for 1-2 hours after mixing chems via shaking which further mixes comp and grinds down the larger particles. Its hard to tweek for each person, mine uses more than double the original amount bicarbonate called for, but this is what works for me. Here is a test shot of a 3/8" star. http://www.apcforum.net/files/glitter.wmv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 You might want to try leaving a small bit of the charcoal out of the ball mill next time, maybe 10% of the total. It doesn't look like you get too much tail with what you currently have. I am not saying it is bad at all, but additional tail may add a nice touch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 Why dont you just ball mill your charcoal to airfloat. Im not sure what mesh airfloat is considered but I would think it would be hard to screen out. Then if you want you could also ball mill your KNO3 down to dust. But if you dont have a coffee grinder I would suggest investing in one. They make powdering your chems, especially KNO3, a lot quicker. 10 minutes with a grinder or a few hours with a mill. I would try this. You might just be getting that star comp mixed too well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flying fish Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 Maybe I'm stating the obvious...but it seems that faster glitters are better for rising effects, and slower ones are better for shell effects. Does this make sense? I have been experimenting with glitters, and I have been most recently using Win 22 based on fast willow BP (mill time 6 hours). They made spectacular tail effects, but when loaded into a shell, the effect was boring because I could not get it to last long enough, even with massive stars and high loading density. I made some slower BP (mill time 2 hours, mixed hardwood "airfloat") and I'm hoping this will be good for the shell effects. Plus that way I won't have to keep using my "good stuff" for stars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 On the note of them 3" shells I was talking about being small after pasting a while back....I pasted a few more today to see what the size can out to be. They were 2.70in wide after being pasted with the 3 stripe method 3 times, so a total of 6 paste laters. Its is fiberglass re-enforced gummed craft from office depot, its 2 3/4" wide. So does this sound like a small shell for being pasted and ready to shoot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 So I shot a few things tonight. Pics:http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...22/S4024148.jpghttp://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...22/S4024149.jpg Videos:http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...nt=S4024151.flvhttp://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...nt=S4024152.flvhttp://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...nt=S4024153.flv They are some 3" balls I made up to test two similar purple comps. They were built about exactly the same and both weighed in within .5g of 125g. They had what stars I got out of a 50g batch of comp. I had to use some meleculor sieves to fill in holes to get full shells. About 3/8" stars. The first was very nice, kinda weak sounding break. The second was a bit sparser with a strong break. I shot the first at an angle and the second straight up. The second seems to burn a bit longer and some hit the ground but the first was perfect. I added those paper rings so the shells would get out of the tubes this time. And I lifted them in a hurry so I just used fiber planters and tape, but it works great! The rocket I made to test some D1 as a rocket delay, didnt work to well. It had a bit of bp/Ti also, thats what you see, then some more whistle, then 5g of 600mesh magnalium flash. It got to 850ft of travel distance, ok for just the booster part of the rocket getting it up there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ULTRABUF Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 psycho, the video links arent working for me. You may not have copied the whole url. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilkyJoe Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 here are the links ULTRABUF http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...nt=S4024153.flvhttp://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...nt=S4024151.flvhttp://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n3/psyc...nt=S4024152.flv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogy Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 Hmm... I'm going to be throwing some 3" Red\Green\Blue together soon... Hopefully the videos turn out... Probably Buell\Lancaster Red, Conkling Blue, and Veline Green...Or all veline... I like Buell Red though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Ok, sorry about the links. I went and change there names after posting the links and it broke them. Its fixed now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebanj12 Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Here are 3 shells from yesterday 3" TT to flash core --> http://shrani.si/f/P/Gn/2yJwKuNz/produce1.avi3" better pearl 16mm stars --> http://shrani.si/f/3F/np/yTINXxS/produce0.avi 4" No antimony white glitter + white stars (totaly disaster) --> http://shrani.si/f/44/A5/2ZDT9qV2/produce.avi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts