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Aerial Shells


Chris

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To address a point above:

 

In the not too-distant future, APC may (and I stress MAY) have an alternative to YouBoob and all the other sites of that type. I'm working on it, along with the other things Mumbles has mentioned for the future. Stay tuned.

 

Those who simply cannot contain their curiousity should look here:

http://www.invisionpower.com/community/index.html in the lower right corner for more info, and here:

http://www.invisionpower.com/community/downloads/index.html

 

and then dream about the future. ;)

 

I personally own all 4 products they offer.

 

This Forum is being run on a very old, free version of IP Board. The latest offering is light-years ahead in capability and flexibility, and we are moving to upgrade it to the new version(s),

 

The products aren't cheap ($300 for all 4) but, for what you get, a real steal in the long run.

 

Anyone wishing to see what these can do, is invited to sign up at the test site I've created. There is NO pyro content yet (you can change that, though :D ), it is simpy a TEST site for what *I* may be doing in the future. But it's a fully functional site that has all 4 products installed.

 

Should you sign up, you must use valid data. However, ALL of your account information will be kept strictly confidential by me, personally and singularly. If the site goes away, all such info will be destroyed.

 

http://community.marlapp-supply.biz

 

BE AWARE THIS SITE MAY DISAPPEAR WITHOUT WARNING. IT IS ONLY A TEST. (Had to say that to prevent whining. ;) )

 

I'm also burying this announcement here so that the serious folks here get a chance to see it. I don't want this site to be more than a test at this point.

 

Right-Click *IS* disabled at this site, so don't be surprised if you try it.

 

Now, back to the subject at hand: Aerial Shells. :D

 

TheSidewinder

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To get this thread back on track, I'll post my little 2" can shell with Win#20 stars which I fired some time ago: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=23fPOfrMTMU

I used an empty toilet roll as a former, and pretty much followed the Passfire tutorial otherwise. Used visco in masking tape as delay, launched with benzolift.

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Electronic ignition:

 

Never used it yet, and have tested squibs of 36Ga. copper dipped in an accelerant mix. Sooo instead of quickmatch down the side I ues wire right? Or are they run thru holes in the mortar base?

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Down the side like quickmatch. Though they are generally tied off around the mouth of the mortar. Alternatively a hole can be drilled near the mouth of the mortar, and it may be threaded and tied off to it. This prevents the exiting shell from taking the firing box with it.
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Down the side like quickmatch. Though they are generally tied off around the mouth of the mortar. Alternatively a hole can be drilled near the mouth of the mortar, and it may be threaded and tied off to it. This prevents the exiting shell from taking the firing box with it.

i'm a noob when it comes to making stars...but this is something i have a fair ammount of experience with. i've learned the hard way that e-matching lift just isn't necessary.

 

QM your shells from the lift cup to above the top of the mortar tube.

 

e-match the QM.

 

don't screw with running wires to your lift cups, it destroys your wires, and risks damaging your firing equipment when the shell launches.

 

also building shells this way (with QM leaders) provides you with the added flexability of being able to chain fuse racks of shells to create flights or salvos of shells...to do this with e-matched lift cups would require a capacitor discrarge system and a bunch of wiring with multiple e-matches.

 

ematching a QM'd chain of QM shell leaders only requires one match.

 

and it will fall harmlessly away from the rack once it's passed fire to the chain of QM.

 

i would avoid e-matching a shells lift if possible. but it can be done if you don't have time to make QM and you don't have any hanging around.

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Unless you are firing a pyromusical, with precisely timed effects, just ematch the QM like

ST1DinOH said. Display companies are the only people who should be ematching the lift directly, and they DO have accidents doing it. As for wasting wire, a commercial e-fired display probably blows 1000-1500 feet of wire per show easily. It's considered a consumable.

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Unless you are firing a pyromusical, with precisely timed effects, just ematch the QM like

ST1DinOH said.  Display companies are the only people who should be ematching the lift directly, and they DO have accidents doing it.  As for wasting wire, a commercial e-fired display probably blows 1000-1500 feet of wire per show easily.  It's considered a consumable.

here's my problem...

 

shooting with e-matches is real nice, unfortunatley the price of e-matches, and the near impossibility to get them without a 1.3 or a 54 prevents me from buying them in masse.

 

so we make our own using 10 foot long pig tailed phono plugs dipped in fire foxes conductive match dip.

 

when the show is over we simply re-bundle them with wire ties into individuals, snip them, strip them back a 1/16 of an inch, and dip em.

 

when you get into a pattern you can slam out 2 or 3 hundred in a few hours.

 

once they've been dipped with the conductive prime a second protective coat of NC or even BP slurry is added to give it strength and more fire.

 

due to the cost of the wires and thier inavailability we've delegated to savaing the shoot wires and re-using them over and over again.

 

saves a TON of money.

 

we also try to use as few matches per show as possible so we tend to chain fuse everything into segments and volleys.

 

cake combos are always blocked together, chained with SM, secured with duct tape, and e-matched.

 

the shows we put on are fired using firing systems that use a 12 channel wireless board. giving us a maximum of 36 cues (6 banks of 6)

 

so we try to get the most out of each cue.

 

re-purchasing or re-making all thoes 10 foot long pig tailed phono plugs would be a real PITA after each show, not to mention quite expensive.

 

as for accidents i couldn't agree more...

 

anytime you slide an e-match into something you risk accidental ignition.

 

either way something is going to be going off in your hand. would you rather it be the QM ribbon of a loaded shell (sending it safely skyward) or the lift cup causing you to drop it at your feet and be in close prox when the burst goes...

 

always match QM with the shells in the guns, and ensure that anything you want to keep is far away from the opening (fingers, hands, arms, faces, ect...).

 

sooner or later we all get bit by a freak accident. but having the shells loaded when matching can mean the difference between soiled underwear and real bad burns (possible death). :o

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Thank ye kindly gentlemen. Does seem much better to Ematch the QM leader.

 

Phono plug leads eh? Just remove the outer insulation and expose the braid and dip? Cool idea there. Obvoiusly you are using "cheapie" cables, not like the 8MM Monster cables. Firing box connection is very simple too...plug an "play" as it were.

 

 

Conductive match dip...hmmm. Iron filings or some such in it? Something else to work on YAY! Maybe a small steel wool ball twisted on the end and a dip in BP slurry?

 

Again, thanks for the info and food for thought!

 

Maybe I'll put that old neon sign transformer to use and just have a couple small metal spikes installed in the tube that penetrate the lift bag and toss an arc of 20Kv across 'em LOL. Sheesh... now look what you've done!

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My 21 cue firing box just got done yesterday! I just need to make the boxes to run th wires out to and it will be completely complete.

 

 

Actually that D1 has a nice dense tail on it. Im not sure what real D1 is supposed to look like but thats good enough for me, mine kinda looks like that but not as dense a tail but more of a hanging sparkle. The TT was also good. Did you have some white stars in those shells or was that random debris fallout?

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@ Bob Marley, nice shells, but i don't like your D1 glitter. I don't see any flashes at all. I think you can better it, what kind of Aluminium and charcoal are you using ?

 

This is what my D1 glitter looks like, it's a tiny sweet 2'' round shell:

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=X5udHJnegqg

 

The stars are very small, but they still had some nice flashes. How bigger my stars how nicer my D1 glitter is. To bad i don't have any vid's of 3'' rounds. I used 250mesh Atomized Aluminium, rolled stars.

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How funny, that's a picture that I took :P

Not that it matters, just really fun to see how your pictures pops up different places on the internet.

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hi there, tonight shoot a 4" spherical shell.

 

About 170 11mm TT stars rolled on a purple core (4mm or so)

I used a KP burst charge.

The rising comet was a bit crap as I expected.

 

The youtube version isn't really good as always, the purple at the end is hard to see (it looks more whitey). In real it was really great.

 

http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=ijbFRI-SHXc

 

edit: here you can download a better quality: http://www.pyrobin.com/files/4inchtttopurple.mov

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That was a nice shell Dutch. TT to purple is on my list of stars to make as soon as a find a decent purple. Not sure what your tail was but I did try win20 once on some 4"s. They were 1/2" pumped stars, one to a shell, but they didnt look too nice flying on the side of a shell.

 

 

OT but I liked this video.

http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=pUkToygEtTo&feature=related

 

Not only are they some very nicely made shells but the green they use is really intense! I want their formula:D

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I sticked a TT comet on the shell, i had some TT stars left and pressed them with some TT composition into a 1,75 inch puck. I just made the comet to quickly i guess.
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It kinda looked like a glittler or something and the mouth of the mortar and it crackled around appex, just TT, weird.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Well Done Zmuro. I like that effect. You always seem to have a good lift charge and break charge. What did you use for break charge?
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