Aerial Shells

[Mumbles]

To anyone who has ever used better pearl stars. Are they a bit tricky to light and actually need a prime, or am I just over breaking my shells do you think?

[Pretty green flame]

To anyone who has ever used better pearl stars. Are they a bit tricky to light and actually need a prime, or am I just over breaking my shells do you think?

I've used better pearls. They light easily, no prime needed, but if it gives you peace of mind then a dusting with green mix will be more than enough (I usually don't bother priming them and they ignite 100%)

[Mumbles]

I pmed you the videos. The 2nd and 3rd have better pearl stars in them.

[''']

I prime my better pearl stars just lightly with meal powder. But I think that that is not necessary, but sure is sure.

 

 

Have a nice day

[Mumbles]

Do you ball mill the mix at all first? That is the main problem PGF though I had. I just screened the chems together.

[hashashan]

Lithium does indeed produce a very good red color.  Much more pure red than the SrCl spectra.  The problem is that it is very pale, and could potentially be over powered by, say potassium.  Potassium burns purpleish, so it may not be all bad.  I don't have any stock formulas containing it, but here is where I would start.  It's a modification of the lancaster formula, which is a modification from Shimizu, which is probably a modification from some sort of Weingart formulation.

 

potassium perchlorate 70

Liithium carbonate 10

shellac 15

dextrin 5

 

I replaced the RG with shellac, as it tends to give a bit cleaner colors.  I also removed carbon to remove any sort of background C spectra.  Shellac and Dextrin both burn pretty completely, and any free C is rare.

 

After that I would perhaps start replacing, 1 part at a time with saran.  I'm not sure how chlorine plays into the effect.

 

There are several things about the Li spectra I don't know.  If you know them, or could figure them out, it would be helpful.

 

What temperatures does Li emit red at?

Is there a molecule emitter or an atomic emitter?

Does chlorine play a role? helpful or harmful?

 

 

With all this being said, the relatively dim color may reduce lithium's effect to all but close range applications.  The addition of metal(less than 5%) may help to brighten it up.  Mg or MgAl being prefered.

Did you ever try that formula since you written it?

How about using Lithium perchlorate thus avoiding the potassium?(yeah i know its a bitch to dry)

I also guess that chlorine donor here will be pretty neccesary.

 

I dont know about the high temperatures spectrum but on low temperature (like a gas burner) it produces a really good pink-red color.

Maybe a good formula here will be :

 

Potassium Chlorate 67

Lactose 16

Lithium Chloride(or carbonate) 8

MnO2 4

Binder 5 (A non water based binder, so the lithium chloride wont catch the water)

 

I really should try it. (maybe today)

[NightHawkInLight]

Potassium Chlorate 67

Lactose 16

Lithium Chloride(or carbonate) 8

MnO2 4

Binder 5 (A non water based binder, so the lithium chloride wont catch the water)

I've often thought but am yet to test that any star that includes hygroscopic materials could be well bound with nitrocellulose. An acetone solvent would dry and harden quickly, along with the added benefit that the NC might even keep the stars from absorbing any water in storage.

[crazyboy25]

i have a couple of questions:

 

1. what type and how long a fuse would i use in a 2" aerial shell (can)

 

2. for small shells (2") what is standard lift to weight ratio

 

3. how much whistle/flash would be used to burst a 2" shell.

[frogy]

i have a couple of questions:

 

1. what type and how long a fuse would i use in a 2" aerial shell (can)

 

2. for small shells (2") what is standard lift to weight ratio

 

3. how much whistle/flash would be used to burst a 2" shell.

1. About a 2.5 second delay... matter on the speed on your visco if you time with that, but just under 1 inch of time fuse (.83" of 1/4" time fuse)

With American visco probably about 1" and with Chinese visco probably about .83" also..

 

2. With shells smaller than about 4" you start moving upwards in the lift:weight ratio... with 4"+ it's something like 1/16... with 2" I'd use about 1/10th... Try testing a dummy shell first filled with bentonite and sealed with masking tape... With a plastic shell your looking at something like 50 grams, so I'd use at least 5 grams of lift...

 

3. This is really to your taste... you can successfully burst a 2" shell with 4fg if you like, but the stars will be grouped close together... I've saw 2" shells that are filled completely with 7:1 KP coated rice hulls and they bursted nicely... So I doubt you can really go to overboard... I'd try to use whistle though, flash will obliterate your stars and probably not light them well...

[psyco_1322]

And the lift ratio will also change based on its strength. Say your using Goex, 2fg: about 1/10th, 3fg: about 1/12th. Cant say much about homemade, I dont get around to that very often.

[hst45]

frogy has it right. For my 2" shells I use American vicso wrapped in three turns of 3/4"electrical tape, hot glue these into the shells, cut each end with a slash cut, and prime the take-fire side with a dab of NC lacquer dipped in meal powder and they work every time. I do put a tiny, and I do mean tiny, flash bag of only about 1 gm. of flash right at the give-fire side of the fuse, and this has improved my breaks. I take a 3" square of saran wrap, add the flash, fold it into a small pouch, tape it closed and trim the excess. It makes a pouch about half the size of a grape. I fill the rest of the shell with meal-coated puffed millet that I get from the health-food store. Puffed millet is about the size of BB's, rather than puffed rice that is more in scale for 3" or larger shells. Lift ratio will depend on the fit of your shell in the mortar, quality of your BP, length of your tube, and weight of your shell. A good rule of thumb is start at 10% of the weight of the shell and adjust from there.

[Zmuro]

This is my first double break canister shell. I hope you like it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AvXAajef4Q

[Mumbles]

Wow, very impressive for a first try. My first double break turned into a large mine. Out of curiosity, did you use two separate time fuses/spolettes(ie one out each end), or did you have the first break pass fire to the second?

 

I really have no criticism, it looked great. You could easily fit another break or two in with the height you got off that one.

[oskarchem]

Hi, do you think that flash could be used as a propultion charge?? or would that be to strong and blow the shell up in the mortar??

[''']

Wow don't be stupid. Flash powder would shtter the shell and the mortar. FP is far faster than BP and can't be used for launching anything out of mortars or cannons.

 

Have a nice day.

[Zmuro]

Wow, very impressive for a first try. My first double break turned into a large mine. Out of curiosity, did you use two separate time fuses/spolettes(ie one out each end), or did you have the first break pass fire to the second?

 

I really have no criticism, it looked great. You could easily fit another break or two in with the height you got off that one.

I used two spolettes.

[ULTRABUF]

Great job zmuro. Could you provide any other details about the shell, like amount of lift, weight of shell, size of stars etc.?

[oskarchem]

It's what I thaught...

[psyco_1322]

I tryed boosting a bit of my lift with some flash once, only about .5g or so on a 1.75" shell, shot the shell about half the needed distance. Oh and did I mention it spreaded the paper mortar tube all over my yard? Ya, no. It cant be used, in any amount.

 

 

On the other hand I need a NH4KClO4 based orange star before halloween, Im outta of KClO4 or else id make some veline orange. Found a go-getter comp but I need something a bit slower, any ideas on slowing down a go-getter? Im thinking about using something other than the 325mesh sperical Al but im not sure what to use that'd be slower, guess I could use some of this nastly coated 325 bright Al. Or just ommit it possible? Heres the formula:

NH4KClO4 - 50

Parlon - 20

Calcium Carbonate - 13

Al 325mesh, spherical - 10

Saran Resin - 5

Cryolite - 2

 

Im making a pumpkin shell. Id think it'll work if I get an orange star made soon.

[NightHawkInLight]

A small amount of sugar will slow most comps. Also baking soda works well and may do less damage to the stars effect. That is unless it turns it into a glitter comp.

[psyco_1322]

That might happen. Dont think Ill use sugar, just dont like the sound of it.

[Zmuro]

Great job zmuro. Could you provide any other details about the shell, like amount of lift, weight of shell, size of stars etc.?

Weight of the shell was 410g and i used 25g of BP for lift, stars were round C8 about 10-13mm OD.

[qwezxc12]

On the other hand I need a NH4KClO4 based orange star before halloween...

This is a formula I've used: Best of AFN III, Orange Ti. You could try it exchanging the 20 parts KClO4 and use all Ammonium Perc. Obviously, omit the Ti if you don't want a tail.

 

Ammonium Perchlorate...........20

Potassium Perchlorate.............20

Calcium Carbonate.................15

Magnalium -100 mesh............15

Parlon...................................10

Red Gum...............................5

Titanium, flakes, 10-60 mesh..15

 

Bind with alcohol.

 

Here's an old video from this past spring. Certainly not the best shell, but you can see the orange: Orange Ti

[ULTRABUF]

I was putting a 4" plastic shell together, and the hemi's were really full so I had to push down hard on them to close all the way, and the top hemi cracked! So now I am left with one filled hemi and a pile of stars and burst. I was going to fix it but its too cold out, I'll do it tomorow. So be careful overfilling your plastic hemis!

[Mumbles]

I've never had a problem with cracking my hemis. It's likely there was already an inperfection in it. I have literally beat on my shells until I crushed stars without breaking the hemis.