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Posted

It is indeed a spolette.

 

I was testing some new ways of timing, and found out that this is the easiest one.

 

It weight 55,7 grams, and launched with 5 grams of whistle mix.

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Posted

Hello

 

This is my third 2" can shell.

It weighed about 100 grams, and contained 43 pumped TT and H3 with FB.

Lifted by 10g BP.

Top fused.

 

VIDEO

 

Regards

Posted
It is indeed a spolette.

 

I was testing some new ways of timing, and found out that this is the easiest one.

 

It weight 55,7 grams, and launched with 5 grams of whistle mix.

what whistle mix did you use?

did you launch it from a cardboard mortar or was it steel or HDPE?

 

did anyone try to launch 3" from cardboard on Kpicrate/Knitrate whistle?

Posted

No, but cardboard is more solid than most people think.

 

I think an HDPE tube can be more easily be destroyed then cardboard tubes. Only hdpe has a much longer life..

 

I once fired a 2" can from a cardboard mortar with 80 grams of bp and I am still using that same tube today, they can take serious abuse ^_^

Posted
It is indeed a spolette.

 

I was testing some new ways of timing, and found out that this is the easiest one.

 

It weight 55,7 grams, and launched with 5 grams of whistle mix.

what whistle mix did you use?

did you launch it from a cardboard mortar or was it steel or HDPE?

 

did anyone try to launch 3" from cardboard on Kpicrate/Knitrate whistle?

I used Potassiumchlorate/natriumbenzoate 70:30

 

And fired from a glasfiber mortar tube.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey guys!

Members may remember me from the older forum... I'm used of using and pasting paper shell's but for the first time I'm getting an order of Plastic Hemi's and I read on the forum that you don't have to paste them but just glue them together... I was wondering, Paste or Glue? What would be better for getting the best breaks?

Thanks alot guys!

Cya ;)

P.S. For the Canadians on this board, where do you get your chem's in Canada?? Thanks!

Posted
It all depends on how you're making them. If you're trying to break them with BP or something like that on hulls, it helps to paste. Even a few vertical strips of fiberglass strapping tape will be fine(say 8 strips on a 3 or 4" shell). If you're using Whistle on hulls, or just a flash bag or something more powerful, then you probably don't need to paste, just glue. In my experience you need a harder break with plastic to get the same symetry as paper due to the lower bursting pressure of plastic.
Posted
Explosive, Hey Bro. I've have used recovered pieces of my plastic shells to make a good solvent glue, using Q tips as an applicator. Now I don't make large shells, 3" max (because of my location), but this works well with the small shells up to at least 3", maybe larger. Xylene will work as a glue, but if you get into plastic shells more, try to recover the plastic debri. Mix the plastic shards with a solvent like acetone,in a metal container . It'll take awhile for the plastics to dissolve. ussally overnight with occasional stirring. Stored properly this glue will keep for a good while,( baby food jars will work for a start). Just add more solvent if it begins to get to thick. Depending on the size of your shell and your burst charge, you may still want to paste. With my 3" I'll still paste 4 to 5 layers depending on how hard a break you may want. As I said I don't make the larger balls, but that glue will help to make a stronger seal, and regardless of paper or plastic, I still paste. Everyone has there own method, and they can vary depending the comps, bursts, and size. Have fun, and welcome back!
Posted
The shells are just polystyrene (styrofoam), so you don't *have* to use recovered shell fragments for your glue although cleaning up your shoot site is a great practice. Old packing peanuts, the plastic lid from convenience store coffee, or even better, fluorescent orange fishing bobbers work great for bulking your glue. The fishing bobbers have the added benefit of coloring the glue fluorescent orange so you're able to gauge penetration in the seams.
Posted

Hey guys!

Thanks for the welcome back and fast replies! For the glue, would normal crazy glue work or should I get the Xylene? Because I don't really know where to get it... Hardwear stores maybe?

Mumbles: fiberglass strapping tape, I've never heard of it :huh: Is it the tape that has 6-7 strands of string?

Thanks alot guys!

Feels good to be back into Pyro! And got a lot of catching up to do on the forum...~2 Years worth!

BTW: The shells i'm thinking of buying are either 2.5"or 3" from PlanetPyro.com, Are they reliable? Finding places that ship to Canada is tough...

Thanks for Everything guys!

Cya ;)

P.S. Is EP and Blindreeper still around?

Posted

Neither EP nor Blindreeper are still around. I used to talk to EP fairly often, but kinda lost touch as he's never on AIM anymore.

 

I would really suggest xylene, or toluene, or acetone or Methylene Chloride for gluing the seam. I don't know how well crazy glue will hold. Look at the hardware store in the paint solvent section.

 

Fiberglass strapping tape is indeed the tape with the string in it. Sometimes it's called filament tape, or filament strapping tape. Here's a pic https://jawproducts.authsecure.com/images/strappingtape.jpg If possible try to get the 3/4" wide stuff. I think it's the most usefull.

Posted

Hey Mumbles!

Thansk alot for clearing that up for me! Its too bad that Ep and Blind aren't around anymore... The good old days! Reeper used to make so nice shells! Anyway Back to topic, Now I have another problem... Since I live in Canada Getting KNO3 is nearly impossible(Stump remoover is off the market in Quebec) so I've got to buy a pound of powder and these are my choices:

-Hodgdon Triple Seven Muzzleloading Powder (FF)

-Hodgdon Triple Seven Muzzleloading Powder (FFF)

-Pyrodex P Muzzleloading Powder(FFF)

-Pyrodex RS Muzzleloading Powder(FF)

-Pyrodex Select Muzzleloading Powder(FF)

 

What would be my best bet for shooting up shells? Or if anyone accualy does use this for lift? I did a search but only found a few threads and one regarding a kewl that wanted to make an"M-80" with pyrodex... :rolleyes: That is why us Pyrotechs got a bad image as "Bombmakers"... Pathetik! :rolleyes:

 

Before I took a "Break" in pyro KNO3 was findable but now... Nothing so I can't make my own BP anymore for lift... Sorry for all the questions and the reason I'm posting this here is because its for lifting shells (The PlanetPyro.com ones i'm buying)...

Thanks alot!

Cya ;)

P.S. Been looking at a lot of the videos and pics of shells posted on this thread and I got to says Keep up the good work guys!!! I was suprised to ee some 8 and 12"! :blink:

 

P.S.#2: Sorry guys for all the questions... :( I'm just trying for get all the Spiderwebs off my "Pyro" section of the brain! lol ^_^

Posted

None of those will work for lift. The first two are smokeless, and the last 3 are pyrodex. Both are equally as powerful or more powerful than BP. The problem is you need to get much higher pressures than possible with a shell to get them to even preform with mediocre results.

 

I am sure there are still some KNO3 sources, just keep looking. Look for fertilizers perhaps, or maybe some of our canadian members will be able to help you out.

Posted
i just made and set off a 3 inch aerial salute, it had 90 grams of flash with 25 grams ffg pyrodex for lift. i used 3 inch plastic hemis for the casing. it went about 200-250 ft high. it worked perfectly, looked pro.

Hey Mumbles!

He seems to have use Pyrodex?! Are you sure about it not working? If not I guess I'll have to see what I can do... :(

Whats so bad about the Pyrodex ones anyway? Whats the main difference?(Sorry I never used it...)

Thanks alot!

Cya ;)

Posted

Pyrodex can be used, but you'll have to use quite a bit more because of the inefficiency Mumbles was talking about; the cost is also a considerable drawback.

 

What oxidizers do you have available to you?

Posted
Pyrodex sucks for anything that doesn't come out of a firearm. I tried it when I was first getting a notion to do this stuff, and it was basically a waste of money and time. It does not burn with any of the properties of blackpowder and will disappoint you in every way possible.
Posted
I've heard that pyrodex has a critical mass of around 30grams, anything under that and it won't do much. Now don't hold me to it, i've only heard this, i've never even seen pyrodex.
Posted

Hey Guys!

Thanks for your replies, well as for the oxidizers I have availible to me... Nothing... Thats what happens when you live in Canada...Well if I can get it to work at least I'll try it out... Its pretty much my only bet... What would be good is if they would sell accual BP for guns not the dam substitutes... So I guess my choices are either Pyrodex RS or Pyrodex Select witch are both FFG the other one is Pyrodex P Wich is a FFFG. What do you guys think I'm best of with? Thanks!

Cya ;)

Posted
Hey Guys!

Thanks for your replies, well as for the oxidizers I have availible to me... Nothing... Thats what happens when you live in Canada...Well if I can get it to work at least I'll try it out... Its pretty much my only bet... What would be good is if they would sell accual BP for guns not the dam substitutes... So I guess my choices are either Pyrodex RS or Pyrodex Select witch are both FFG the other one is Pyrodex P Wich is a FFFG. What do you guys think I'm best of with? Thanks!

Cya ;)

If you have no oxidizers, what do you plan to use for making stars, burst, ect.?

Posted

Hello,

 

You certainly can make your own oxidizers and the process is fairly simple. Take a look at pvconly.com

 

He sells the electro cells and complete instruction. They are High Powered Rocket people and the owner is very good at what he does.

 

So your problem for KCIO4 is now solved. You will use salt pellets that you can buy anywhere for water purification systems.

 

Have Fun & Stay green,

 

Skypainter

Posted
Hello,

 

You certainly can make your own oxidizers and the process is fairly simple. Take a look at pvconly.com

 

He sells the electro cells and complete instruction. They are High Powered Rocket people and the owner is very good at what he does.

 

So your problem for KCIO4 is now solved. You will use salt pellets that you can buy anywhere for water purification systems.

 

Have Fun & Stay green,

 

Skypainter

Hey!

The link you gave me is for U.S. shipping only and i'm in Canada... But for the Pyrodex I'm willing to give it a try(I know its maybe a waste of cash to some of you guys but i'm willing to try!) So would it be:

Pyrodex P (FFFG)

Pyrodex RS (FFG)

Pyrodex Select (FFG)

Thanks alot!

Cya

Of and BTW, my mom is not to hot about the Making oxidizers thing... So she probably wouldn't buy it...

 

EDIT: I know a lot of you are trying to help me get oxidizers but Until I find some I need something to replace it so i'm just wanting to know witch class of Pyrodex to buy! Thanks alot Guys!

P.S. Sorry for all the trouble...

Posted

If you absolutly insist on using pyrodex, I would try to get the finest stuff possible, so the FFFG. It might help to get the burn rate up and generate a bit more pressure.

 

As far as PVC only, they ship to canada. E-mail them or something for a shipping quote, and don't expect to get any hazardous materials.

 

Just out of curiousity, what are you going to be lifting if you can't make stars or anything?

Posted

I'm wanting to try to make some with the pyrodex. Thanks Mumbles for clearing it up for me... If the stars fail, well i'll buy a 100 shot roman candle cake and use the stars... :rolleyes: Better than nothing... But my mom is going to check the local pharmacies out for KNO3 she said he saw some there once. And from there on I'll make BP and plain white stars... Right now i've been making canister shells out of my older products that I had when I was "in to it"... I just ordered 50ft. of RED Visco fuse and 12: 2"1/2 shells from PlanetPyro.com!

Thanks Alot for everybody's help here and I'll check it to the FFFG pyrodex!

Cya ;)


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