Pretty green flame Posted October 3, 2006 Posted October 3, 2006 Simpel: More lift ,pretty green flames More lift can equal a busted mortar as has happened once (2" one)
aquaman Posted October 3, 2006 Posted October 3, 2006 pretty green flames- 1) Ball Mill the BP longer (4-5 hours or how ever many you think). Or just use commercial BP. I could also suggest Benzolift but I would stick with BP as Benzolift is more powerful.2) Add a few inches (1-3) to the mortar if you can.3) Try more BP4) Make the shell so that there is (1/32-1/16) of an inch of space on the sides. You want the shell to be as close to the mortar's walls as possible but not so close that it doesn't fall down the mortar by itself. If you make the shell too wide and force the shell down the mortar it can get stuck and cause alot of pressure to build up and cause the mortar to explode. In other words just make the shell so that it can freely move up and down but be as close to the sides as possible. Follow these four steps and you should be ok. If you have then I don't know what else to tell you. BTW what type of mortar are you using?
Pretty green flame Posted October 4, 2006 Posted October 4, 2006 Yes, i shall try the tips you gave me. Btw, i use paper mortars.
aquaman Posted October 4, 2006 Posted October 4, 2006 Is the paper mortar homemade or bought? I'm guessing it is bought because making a mortar for a 3" and 4" would be quite hard and time consuming. Any way yeah post back if my tips work (or not) for you. I had this problem when I was first starting out and found out that my problem was very crappy BP. Once I got a homemade ball mill going I was able to make some ok BP and was getting shells and dummy shells in the air all the time. I used to shoot them in open fields by my house but now it's a new subdivision so I pretty much stopped with shells. It sucks and there isn't too many open fields so I'm out of luck! So yeah try those tips and see how they work for you. Try tips 1, 4, 2, then 3 in that order.
50caliber Posted October 5, 2006 Posted October 5, 2006 how would i make the kamuro effect in blue and red like artificier did?are kamuros the same as chrysanthemum? btw artificier, those shells look awesome
al93535 Posted October 5, 2006 Posted October 5, 2006 Pretty green flame: If I were you, I would first use finer mesh BP. But I would not go -20 mesh, I suggest trying -16+20 mesh if you have the screens. Make the shell fit tighter into the mortar, and use a mortar that is 7 times the ID. Sure you can ball mill the powder longer, but I think the above ideas would have a more profound effect. Also, the heavier the shell the higher it will go. Making zinc stars? hehe
Rocket007 Posted October 5, 2006 Posted October 5, 2006 here is my new video of my first 3-1/2" shell. the white TT stars were very nica. plz write me what i did right and what not. video LP rok
aquaman Posted October 5, 2006 Posted October 5, 2006 That was a very good shell . The break was a little uneven but alot of people have that problem so don't worry to much about it. Keep it up! BTW what language were you guys speaking?
Pretty green flame Posted October 6, 2006 Posted October 6, 2006 Yes Rocket007, the shell was very good (also like the comments in the background ) @Aquaman, hehe, he speaks the same language as i do (Slovene) but even i have problems understanding him as he's from a different region and speaks a different dialect. Maybe Rocket007 can translate some of the screaming for us
Rocket007 Posted October 6, 2006 Posted October 6, 2006 haha. translate lol. ve were saying:are you crazy?you are crazy!O Mravlak(that am I) you are realy crazy!!!this one was realy cool! HEHE
Cherbanov Posted October 8, 2006 Posted October 8, 2006 can i use potassium perclorate with sulfur? i was woundering to make a star with perc in centrum and BP around it in my new shell. is that a good ide or not?
rocket Posted October 8, 2006 Posted October 8, 2006 Yes you can its not as bad as Kclo3 and sulfur but you still should be wary. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.
styropyro Posted October 8, 2006 Posted October 8, 2006 I'm pretty sure there is 1-3% chlorate in perchlorates from the manufacturing process. I try to avoid perchlorate/sulfur mixes when I don't need to, that chlorate in there does scare me. So if you do try out that formula, be aware of the chlorate and be extremely careful!
Cherbanov Posted October 8, 2006 Posted October 8, 2006 i was going to do a white star perc - Al and then roll it in black powderto make a two effect star. i will try some small ones in the start
Mephistos Minion Posted October 9, 2006 Posted October 9, 2006 Adding a BP prime to perc stars is fine and done often (usually BP+ a metal to ignite them).
Mumbles Posted October 9, 2006 Posted October 9, 2006 Depending on the grade and origin of Perc will determine how much chlorate and other contaminates it has.
roky Posted October 9, 2006 Posted October 9, 2006 This was my first aerial shell, it flower potted but still made a good minehttp://www.zippyvideos.com/3030671946096256/rokyev_shell/
TheSidewinder Posted October 10, 2006 Posted October 10, 2006 pyrostyro is correct, as is Mumbles, but *ALL* KClO4 (regardless of purity) will have *SOME* (1-2%) KClO3 as an impurity. At that low of a percentage, though, it makes no discernible difference. At least, that's what I'm told by Mr. Freeman. M
Mardec Posted October 10, 2006 Posted October 10, 2006 Fuck me .. I think I just ruined my 3" ball shell. I threw in BP coated on Wood fillings as break, I just thought that that probably will not be powerfull enough for a break.The bp was milled 24 hours but still..There is a flash bag inside for boost btw and the stars where pretty small. I think there is around 2" in diameter of BP on wood inside. I hope I did't go through so much work to see a prefectly good shell go to waste because of poor break Can someone please tell me that you used BP coated on hulls or something in your 3" balls and it works..
FrankRizzo Posted October 10, 2006 Posted October 10, 2006 Mardec, You're probably just fine. What type of shell casing did you use, and how much and what type of flash did you use? I break 3" plastic hemis with a 3g flash bag with 5:1 BP coated rice hulls as filler between the stars.
Pyrohawk Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 Actually a 3g flash bag inside a 3" ball shell is total overkill! Unless those stars are like chrysanthemum or something they are gonna blow blind... Flash is wicked stuff and I actually used that exact set up once. Coated hulls with a 3g flash bag.....inside a paper shell. All the stars blew blind. I'd cut that back to maybe 1g flash or change to whistle. To be honest I'd say your shell will blow blind...but I hope I'm wrong!Good luck!
Mardec Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 I only used 1 gram of flash, Frank rizzo uses 3.It is KNO3/Mg flash 50 50.Yeah Mg flash but I don't have my Dark aluminium yet so.. I also Coated 7:1 BP on the wood since it was so fine.Large surface/volume area so It all stead on nicely. Anyway I was thinking, if the break is poor I will normally still get a palm tree effect so I was thinking of attaching a rising commet. Will make pictures of it today
Pyrohawk Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 Oh ok...yeah I see... Well I'd say your shell will be ok in that case! Atleast assuming its pasted well.... There is only really one way to find out!
FrankRizzo Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 Actually a 3g flash bag inside a 3" ball shell is total overkill! Unless those stars are like chrysanthemum or something they are gonna blow blind... Flash is wicked stuff and I actually used that exact set up once. Coated hulls with a 3g flash bag.....inside a paper shell. All the stars blew blind. I'd cut that back to maybe 1g flash or change to whistle. To be honest I'd say your shell will blow blind...but I hope I'm wrong!Good luck! Actually Pyrohawk my shells function beautifully, but we're not really talking about the same thing here. With the extra confinement that paper affords, using flash is obviously unnecessary, but nothing else that I've used in the past has provided as wide and symmetric breaks with unpasted plastic hemis as flash.
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