Jump to content
APC Forum

Aerial Shells


Chris

Recommended Posts

I have been using 1/2" stars for mine, but they are way oversized.

 

Courtesy of al

 

Here is a table which gives good starting sizes:

Cut Star Size vs Shell Size

Shell Size ----------- Cut Color Stars ----------- Cut Tailed

 

3" ----------- 1/4" or smaller ---------- 1/4" - 3/8"

4" ---------- 1/4" - 3/8" ---------- 3/8" - 1/2"

5" ---------- 3/8" - 1/2" ---------- 1/2" - 5/8"

6" --------- 3/8" - 1/2" ---------- 1/2" - 5/8" or 3/4"

8" ---------- 1/2" or larger --------- 5/8" or larger

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Mumbles

    390

  • psyco_1322

    228

  • Pretty green flame

    137

  • qwezxc12

    134

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have 3 seconds on my 2 inch shells and that seems to have them burst at peak height.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

d4j0n:I think this is wery useful chart(copyed from book The chemistry Of Fireworks -Russel)

Diameters are in mm your 2inch diameter matches wich 50mm so ideal teoretical time is 3.7 seconds.

But in my own openien 3.7s are too much and I agree with teknix that 3s are enough.

But it also depends on effect you have.

Some not very strong effect are more beutigul when they are displayed in lower altitude =>less lift powder, shorter delay. For some others higher altitude is better.

post-4-1155248242_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fired a 3 inch today. Total failure! :( :angry:

It only rised up to 10 meters and had a very bad timing (i have no timefuse or visco so i use spolletes).

The stars did not ignite...... Only 2-3 of them, they are Aqua stars (40:30 Zn, BP). I made tests before and they worked fine. The burst was coated rice hulls, total weight of the shell was 140gramms and the used lift was 25 gramms (i added more since the shell had 5mm gap in the mortar).

Result: low altitude, break on 5meters, no stars only a powerfull break.

You can watch the vid here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBArUO_08S0 .

Any ideas what i did wrong?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you need to confine the break better.

 

Add some commercial 4Fg to the break. Put it in a cannule if possible. Either that, or spike it more densely.

 

M

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello

I give pictures from my manufacutre ;) as I promised.

 

stars, paper hemis, shell case, cardboard disc etc I do all oneself

 

[pumped stars from syringe:) || stars: D1 glitter, white glitter no antimony, Granite, Yellow org. (Shimizu, It's are organe/brwon), TT, Golden TT, Silver Wave]

 

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/Gwiazdy_02.jpg

 

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/Gwiazdy_03.jpg

 

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/Gwiazdy_04.jpg

 

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/Gwiazdy_05.jpg

 

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/Gwiazdy_06.jpg

 

(These silver stars are Yellow metallic pump but with hot primer)

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/Gwiazdy_07.jpg

 

(3 inch shell, with D1 glitters)

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/3inch_d1_2.jpg

(4inch shell, with Tiger Tails stars (they are red metallic core)

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/4inchTT_red_burst.jpg

(These small stars on the blue plate are White Strobe. They're pistil)

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/4inch_TT.jpg

(next 4" shell with my Yellow metallic stars with "Flitter primer".These 4 stars in the burst are Silver streamer (pcz75, Al atom20)

Hemis lie on my weight. )

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/Yellow_4inch_02.jpg

(my 2" and 3" shell case)

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/cylindry%20.jpg

 

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/cylindry_2.jpg

(my 4" hemis)

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/polkula_4inch_P2_01.jpg

(my 4" hemis, It has 6mm yellow fuse as delay (lenght 35mm)

http://members.lycos.co.uk/piroserwer/tomek/Polkula_4inch_P2_02.jpg

 

Regards

Shellmaker Pyroman2:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Probbably no priming, and too much gap between mortar and shell, and maybe bad lift?

I thought those stars don't need priming at all... They worked fine in some past shells.

The gap was 5mm and yeah the lift indeed was bad have to prepare new.. I use willow charcoal on everything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And next

3" canister with White Glitter (this gray bag is FBbag:)

http://www.apcforum.net/files/3inch_can_white_glitter1.jpg

(my bursting charge on the grass seeds)

http://www.apcforum.net/files/Burst_02.jpg

(my lift powder)

http://www.apcforum.net/files/lift_powder_01.jpg

(my shelf)

[/img]http://www.apcforum.net/files/poleczka.jpg[/img]

(2" can with White Glitter)

http://www.apcforum.net/files/s6.jpg

 

Next, I'll give movie.

Bye.

P2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone here know of a way to etermenie how many pumped stars one would need to fill a canister shell? I heard there's a formula for this, would anyone mind posting it here?

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only place I know of it is on passfire, and I don't actually know the formula used. One could probably figure it out with some geometry though. It is however not something I feel like doing.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its funny this really... well ive always though of areial shells and rocket headers as having just a central flash bag or breaking charge in the centre and layer(s) or stars around the outside(weather its round or cylindrical) right? so im guess its only in rather small diameter shells and headers which use just basically a container of the bursting charge(such BP'd rice hulls etc) mixed with the stars? this has confused me a while now as ive seen alot of website with different ways of making these shells. Though i suppose that the central flash bag is needed for symmetrical breaks...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its funny this really... well ive always though of areial shells and rocket headers as having just a central flash bag or breaking charge in the centre and layer(s) or stars around the outside(weather its round or cylindrical) right? so im guess its only in rather small diameter shells and headers which use just basically a container of the bursting charge(such BP'd rice hulls etc) mixed with the stars? this has confused me a while now as ive seen alot of website with different ways of making these shells. Though i suppose that the central flash bag is needed for symmetrical breaks...

Stars mixed in randomly with the burst is called a 'poka' shell, layered stars with a central burst form a 'chrysanthemum' shell. Shimizu has good information on both styles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm i see! just a shame shimizu's book's are gonna cost my ass in money!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its funny this really... well ive always though of areial shells and rocket headers as having just a central flash bag or breaking charge in the centre and layer(s) or stars around the outside(weather its round or cylindrical) right? so im guess its only in rather small diameter shells and headers which use just basically a container of the bursting charge(such BP'd rice hulls etc) mixed with the stars? this has confused me a while now as ive seen alot of website with different ways of making these shells. Though i suppose that the central flash bag is needed for symmetrical breaks...

I actually find that even while using shells as small as 1" cupsets, the traditional approach for cannister shells is still feasable using granulated bp/kp + whisttle/flash boost as break. Isn't too much of a hassle to roll a small tube to seperate the burst from the stars and hot glue it in. As far as spherical shells though, since they have less volume it's harder although the approach on http://www.pyrowiki.com/ of using a whole tissue paper full of burst as opposed to two seperate halves works well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The information in the books far outweigh the price.

...Actually, how much exaclty DO they cost? is there anywhere which i can get it particularly cheap compared to others? (it'll be the first book on my list after getting my paycheck when i start my part time job ^_^ )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm curious, how much flash boost do you guys normally use with what break and what size shell? I'm making plastic 1.5" and 2"ers, any recommendations for a starting point?

 

 

Flash is stronger than whistle, right? I only have flash right now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For shells of that size, I wouldn't use any flash or whistle as a booster. If you did, and were to use flash, I wouldn't exceed .3 gams. For my 3" ball shells, I use whistle coated crispies, and used a booster only once. I used .5 grams of flash. It blew almost all of my stars blind. But, the ones that burned, burned in a weird pattern. I remember thinking it looked like an angel.

 

If you have the materials, I would experiment to find what works for you. I would recommend not using it for one shell, just to make sure if it is necessary or not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

get some flash and your lift put some fp in the cup enough you think will coat it then put it over a screen smaller than the lift but so the fp can pass through and you got your self a nice break charge

B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't really understand what you said ozzy. I'm using KP coated grass seeds (shoulda used crispies, this grass seed stuff doesn't like taking in water). I think if I use plain whistle on my carrier that might be a bit much...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the problem is that you're using KP. It's not designed for small shells. I'd say 4" might be the lower limit. I'd try something like BP or H3, or whistle. Most commercial shells of this size are flash and whistle burst. Rice crispies may be too big for these size of shells. I think for what you're making grass seed is just fine. You have to remember what works in bigger shells, doesn't neccesarily work in smaller shells.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was under the impression that KP was stronger than bp? I've read in many places that KP is supposed to be used for smaller shells...

 

edit: nevermind, was thinking about H3. There goes a ton of wasted alder c. Is H3 dangerous if it comes in contact with ordinary sulfur containing bp prime? Is tissue paper enough to separate it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...