ravaz Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 It isnt really proper pyro to use bought BP. I mean its almost like going out and buying a firework and saying its yours. I don't agree with that statement. I see nothing wrong with using commercial black powder. I own a professional ball mill and make my own meal powder - but as far as BP for lift, there is nothing wrong with commercial powder like GOEX etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viziers Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Hello all, I'm new to this forum and in making my own shells and have read quite extensivly (sp) on the amounts of lift/break and other techniques but have not seen anything about spiking a plastic sphere shell. Is this somthing that is needed as well or is this just needed for the paper shells. I'm asking because im planning on making a few 3" shells for the fourth and needed some clarification on this. If this has been covered already in any way then i apologize and if it has do you have a link to it handy? Thanks allviziers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mephistos Minion Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 By spiking do you mean with string? That is what spiking is and it is only done with canister shells. Paper spherical shells are pasted with layers of paste soaked kraft paper to keep them together and give them strength, but plastic ones do not need it. Some people do paste paper over their plastic ones for looks though (IIRC Blindreeper did that). So in answer to your question: No, plastic shells are fine just glued together, providing you use the right glue/solvent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viziers Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 By spiking do you mean with string? That is what spiking is and it is only done with canister shells. Paper spherical shells are pasted with layers of paste soaked kraft paper to keep them together and give them strength, but plastic ones do not need it. Some people do paste paper over their plastic ones for looks though (IIRC Blindreeper did that). So in answer to your question: No, plastic shells are fine just glued together, providing you use the right glue/solvent. thank you Mephistos Minion Sorry my wording was incorrect i did in fact mean pasting. Again thank you for your time,viziers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravaz Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 By spiking do you mean with string? That is what spiking is and it is only done with canister shells.Just to add to this. People do infact spike paper spherical shells. While it's not that common, it is done. I think I've seen this with some shells that came out of Spain and I think the Maltese do this as well. Also, with my 6" plastic shells I do paper about 8 layers of 40lb gummed tape on them. I have noticed a more symmetrical break when doing this. BTW viziers, I like your avatar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Yes, it is a nice avatar. It's a shame it has to go due to animation and questionable content. In the latest PGI bulletin, the how to article is making a 12" triple petal shell. The maker of the shells spikes in internal shells, probably to give a more symetrical and harder break. I do paste my plastic spherical shells. I always feel they are too loose in the mortars otherwise. I also have noticed a better break. I put on 4-6 layers of 30lb on 3" and 4" Then 6-8 of 50 lb on 5" and 6". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viziers Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Yes, it is a nice avatar. It's a shame it has to go due to animation and questionable content. In the latest PGI bulletin, the how to article is making a 12" triple petal shell. The maker of the shells spikes in internal shells, probably to give a more symetrical and harder break. I do paste my plastic spherical shells. I always feel they are too loose in the mortars otherwise. I also have noticed a better break. I put on 4-6 layers of 30lb on 3" and 4" Then 6-8 of 50 lb on 5" and 6".Mumbles, Sorry for the avatar didnt think it would be a problem being it wasnt too revealing of certain things but none the less its gone.. Now as far as pasting my 3' shells ill have to see how loose an empty shell is inside of the tube to base my decision on pasting it or not. P.S. is there any good andelaborate write ups of 3" and smaller shells? The only one i have is of 4" and up and its not toin depth of detail. thanks ahead of time. Thanks,viziers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 I also paste my Skylighter hemis. I agree with Mumbles, bare plastic hemis seem to have a loose feel in the mortar. Not to mention I have had lift failures with this gap. I like to paste my shell with about 5 layers, so that when you lower it into the mortar you can hear the sides of the shell scraping down the side of the tube; but dropping freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 The snugger the shell is to the mortar the harder it fires, which can be detrimental. Having the wide gap with more lift shoots the shell softer. I like to have them fairly snug, except on my 2" shells because they are semi fragile in the sense of that I don't want to compromise their structural integrity with the lift charge. Also, On all the 2 inch commercial shells that I have dissected have been vertically spiked with string. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 The snugger the shell is to the mortar the harder it fires, which can be detrimental. Having the wide gap with more lift shoots the shell softer. I like to have them fairly snug, except on my 2" shells because they are semi fragile in the sense of that I don't want to compromise their structural integrity with the lift charge. Also, On all the 2 inch commercial shells that I have dissected have been vertically spiked with string. 2" Shells spiked? I take it you mean Canister shells? Even though i have seen some Cylindrical Maltese shells being spiked too.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Cylindrical and canister shells are the same Karl. When I was in Malta, I did not see any spiked round shells. Not even the 14inch one. Maybe some factories do and some don't however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 2" Shells spiked? I take it you mean Canister shells? Even though i have seen some Cylindrical Maltese shells being spiked too.... No, two inch ball shells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mephistos Minion Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 I have decided on dimensions for my first 3" colour break shell! It will be 4" tall and 3" round (duh). Containing Reeper Silver, 10mm cut stars. It will be spiked with 2mm Hemp Twine, which has a breaking strain of 48 pounds. The spoulette will be a 1/4" tube from www.pyrotube.com. I am using 55lb Virgin Kraft for the case becuase as yet I have not any 70lb. I will be pasting it with the same. The liner will be made form posterboard. If all goes to plan, withing 2 weeks (my lab is far away) I will have finally made a propper canister shell. Pics of the process will be included along with the video. I want to get this, my first attempt, as good as I can with the materials I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Cylindrical and canister shells are the same Karl. When I was in Malta, I did not see any spiked round shells. Not even the 14inch one. Maybe some factories do and some don't however. Sorry, I meant Ball Shells. And yes, some Maltese do spike Ball Shells, see this picture:http://www.freepgs.com/karlfoxman/Malta%20...ll%20shells.JPG Hope that clears it up,Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murderskill Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Hello.. I have some major problems with my 9/16 shells. I was pouring in the glue with the fuse. Let it dry overnight. and look to see they all have craters or a hole and then the top part dried put its like a cave of space in there. How might i go fixing this? I have already tried 2 different glues. I will get pic when i get my sisters camera. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewest Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Mephistos Minion, if you use 10mm stars make sure they'll burn out quick. I launched some 3" ball shells with 1/2" pumped glitter stars last weekend and some of those suckers burned all the way back down to the ground. The shell ignited at about 350-400 feet up. Really nice stars though. And Murderskill, I know exactly what you're talking about because mine did that too. Elmer’s or any of the glues like that will shrink when it dries. But believe it or not, it's not that big of a deal because what you're really trying to do is get the fuse to light from the end and not in the middle so as to screw up your timing. The glue that dries on the fuse will stop that from happening so it's probably ok. If it makes you feel better you can use hot glue next time, it won't shrink and it'll be dry enough to handle in 10 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mephistos Minion Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 The stars are just fast burning meal powder with 10% Al added. So they burn fairly fast, even so I will overlift it because there is alot of dead grass at my launch site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viziers Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Well i guess my hobby has just become VERY limited. I won't be able to further my hobby and passion to progress to be making any 2" and 3" shells anymore unfortunately my girlfriend ABSOLUTELY FORBIDS it guess the only thing i can do is watch them which i guess thats better than nothing. Atleast i can still use the consumer 1 3/4" shells. I'm soo depressed about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mephistos Minion Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Um, dude, fuck her in every sense of the word. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 What kind of girl is that? Obviously she wants a guy with his own meanings, hobbies and style, not some guy that obeys her every command. It is extremely dangerous to let the ladies take control of the relationship. Sorry for the off-topic post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viziers Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 I know this is off topic sorry about that.. The funny but not so funny thing is that she tried to do the altamadum (sp) its either fireworks or its me and i told her that is not the rought she wanted to go because she deffinately would not like the answer to that question!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justanotherpyro Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Wow, the whole thing is actually really simple. If someone acts that way do think it will stop? It's like the woman thinking she can slowly change the man...fat chance. She is who she is, a disrespectful bitch that cares only about herself. Either use her like she is using you and wait for the breakup or ditch her ass. My girlfriend is uncomfortable with my hobby, and has expressed her concern. Ultimately though she knows its my choice and she doesn't try to be a controlling bitch. As for aerial shells....Does the fiberglass reinforced tape used to spike 3" or 4" shells make a noticeable difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PyroJoe Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 I am going to start rolling a ton of stars, so I can just concentrate on making shells and devices for the 4th, instead of having to roll stars every week. My next few batches will be a large batch of Tiger Tail/some other charcoal streamer and some type of silver flitter stars. Since both these comps are cheap to make. What would everyones opinion be on the type of aluminum I should use for my silver stars? I can get -325 Mesh coated flake AL for 4.00 per lb. or I can get 25-30 micron atomized AL for the same price. Which type of AL would give the longest, brightest, thickest tail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted June 3, 2006 Author Share Posted June 3, 2006 Could you be a bit more specific about the silver flitter comp you are planning to use? The prefered type of Al varies, but personaly I like to stay as far away as possible from 325 Mesh (and finer) flake type Al. It is a real bitch to work with, and in my experience, the coated type doesn't roll very well. It just makes a complete mess in the roller. I think flake Al is what is traditionally used in flitter comps, but if you could consider glitter or streamer stars, you can get away easier imo. In this case I would definitely go with the atomized type of Al simply because it is non-leafing and therefore easier to work with. Also depending on the particle form, it might be more suitable for your application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artificier Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 I will make small salute insert last week and i will put image and a video of it :the shell:http://f5.putfile.com/6/15316585852.jpg the video with no sound :http://media.putfile.com/salute-16 i also make nice shell:http://f5.putfile.com/6/15317074810.jpghttp://f5.putfile.com/6/15317095232.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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