Mumbles Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I don't think you'll be disappointed, it is a very beautiful composition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FREAKYDUTCHMEN Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Yes, but maybe a little too fast hehe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExplosiveCoek Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 International pyro meeting ^^. My link 1 My link 2 2 different movie's, same firework stuff. Enjoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kauyon Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Yup they're still great through a link from an other forum . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pretty green flame Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 3 Inch aerial shell, testing for NYE I think it needs a slightly stronger booster. One would think that a level table spoon of Slow flash would be enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 NYE.... Damn, forgot about that one. Back to the shop with me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arte valdo Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 6x6'' shells unpasted: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn126/Artevaldo/Pyro%20foto/HPIM1322.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHawkInLight Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 6x6'' shells unpasted: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn126/Artevaldo/Pyro%20foto/HPIM1322.jpgWhat made you use time fuse on some and spolettes on others? Feel a little nervous to entrust crossettes to time fuse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pretty green flame Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 Here's one of those spanish plastic canister shell. It seems that these are intended for a flashbag break or the top plug will most likely blow off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FREAKYDUTCHMEN Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 What did you used for glue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pretty green flame Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 What did you used for glue? Methy Ethyl Keton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FREAKYDUTCHMEN Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 (edited) I've never heard of that to use as glue. All manufacturers I know use methylene chloride. So that might be the problem. Edited September 13, 2010 by FREAKYDUTCHMEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peret Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 I've never heard of that to use as glue. All manufacturers I know use methylene chloride. So that might be the problem.Neither methylene chloride nor MEK is actually a glue - they are both solvents. The "glue" action is the solvent welding of the PVC, which doesn't achieve much strength until the solvent has completely evaporated. Methylene chloride is more volatile than MEK, so the joint dries quicker; apart from that there's not much between them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arte valdo Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Not feel nervious just I have left few spoletes so I used it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pretty green flame Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Problem is I can't find Methylene chloride here, so I'll stick with MEK for the time being, I probably used too little solvent for bonding the parts together. A stronger flash break and more solvent will most likely solve this problem. Heh, I've only made 1 plastic canister and I already feel lazy, no more spiking and pasting for me, atleast until I run out of plastic shells Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 I am with PGF on this one, Methylene chloride evaporates too fast and does not allow for twisting the shell to get a deep seat. I'll stick with MEK as well since all of the ball pieces I find of the equator show a welded seam and the breaks are never on the seam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50AE Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 What I'm planning for the NYE... Not really planning, already work in progress. Preparing 26 mortars 3" and 4 mortar 4", 30 mortars total, half work is done - painted and pluggedMaking the racks, in progressMaking the ball shells - there will be at least 11-15 ball shells. These are fast made.Making the cylinder shells - much more labor, because I'll be doing with all possible inserts - serpents, tourbillions, buterflies, hummers, reports, bottom shots and so onMaking the wireless firing system, in progress. Not really wishin to chat anymore, I'm on half a gallon of beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotails Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Anyone here try/see the new shells PyroCasings is making? 7/8th of an inch. Im planning on ordering 200 or so to see how they preform as inserts. i know not much is gonna fit, but i'll see what i can make work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 I've always been leary of plastic inserts. I mean comets can soften the surface, think of the shell break would be much hotter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick007 Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Hei fnrds, I am a Newbie here. Am a pyromaniac. I just need detailed info's n method of making an aerial shell. How to make the burst charge? will it be in powder form or granulated?how much burst charge do i need for a 2 " n 3" shell? plzz..need help guys... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pretty green flame Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Check the "Member Tutorials" section, many excellent articles on making stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50AE Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 (edited) Building the racks. Built the 3" 12 straight shots today, for less than 1$ from scrap wood. I paid the screws It's very heavy though. http://pyrobin.com/files/12shot3inchrack.jpg Edited September 14, 2010 by 50AE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted September 14, 2010 Author Share Posted September 14, 2010 Here's one of those spanish plastic canister shell. It seems that these are intended for a flashbag break or the top plug will most likely blow off. You are absolutely right! We use the Gamon 68mm casings for commercial manufacturing. The casing is very tough and builds up pressure well, as does its bigger brother. The casings however still require a centered flash charge for a nice break. Depending on the effect type, 3" can be built with 2g, 4g or 6g flash charges. 4g is the most typically used amount, where as 2g is for a diadem type effect and 6g for large chrysanthemums. The gamon plastic casings give really nice breaks once filled correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pretty green flame Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Thanks for the flash ammounts, useful info. I'm guessing they are meant for 70/30 made with german dark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 Thanks for the flash ammounts, useful info. I'm guessing they are meant for 70/30 made with german dark? Yes, that's right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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