Bonny Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 I'm sure those shells looked good IRL. If you want to make adjustments, you can consider the following. You can see that some of the stars have a small delay between burst and fully burning. This refers to slow ignition, which is a common problem with round stars in larger shells. Priming might solve the issue but sometimes a fire block or uneven pasting might cause this problem. Seeing that your break is round and the fact that you are using a pretty much incompressible burst carrier would suggest that priming might be your answer. I have never primed charcoal streamers myself but I know some guys stand for it. Smallers stars will naturally give a denser break, assuming they ignite at the same time. My personal opinion is that a shorter burn time (of smaller stars) and denser break would improve the outcome. However, smaller stars won't help if they don't ignite at the same time. Hope this helps! The stars did have a light BP prime layer. Maybe a few more layers of pasting (and no booster) would have allowed more time for ignition before the shell broke? I'm also wondering if a slow flash booster rather than whistle would help if it creates hotter temps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Epyro Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Here is a video of the second shell made and shot by me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnvwO9bA2Bg I was very pleased with the result, specs are at the movie. Greetz Epyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonny Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Here is a video of the second shell made and shot by me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnvwO9bA2Bg I was very pleased with the result, specs are at the movie. Greetz Epyro The shell performed very well, good job. Maybe just the camera or my screen, but the stars looked white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ventsi Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 I'm about to start wetting/pumping stars for 2 3" Silver Palm Tree shells. I was originally thinking of using a 5/8" pump but I'm wondering if thats a bit small, should I go for 3/4" instead? The stars are Hardt 3 and they burn very fast, similar to a silver wave composition. To get around this I'll be priming them on one end only and paste paper around the rest of the star. Also, any recommendations as far as prime goes? I'm thinking BP75/25comp. with a slight dusting of straight BP on top? This is more towards Mumbles since he referenced me to this comp. and said he had good success with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I've always primed the Hardt 3 comets by dipping them in NC lacquer and then into granular green meal with ~5% silicon. I've been using them as rising comets, so I lightly tape 2 sticks of blackmatch over the surface to ensure ignition. I've also tried Veline super prime with the same meal layer over the top, and they lit as well. They seem to be pretty easy to light despite all of the aluminum. Meal with 25% of the comp and a light meal dusting should light them just fine, especially with the relatively soft palm tree break. Palm shells are supposed to have very fast burning comets in them. It's probably better to try them all pasted and back it off next time than to have them burn up too quick. My comets are 1" diameter and about 1" long. All pasted up as rising comets, they burn for about 3 seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ventsi Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 A soft break you say? Thats going to be a first, guess I'll just pack her tight with BP/grass seed and perhaps add some granulated BP as a "booster".I ended up making the stars 5/8" and ~11/16" long. I just couldn't fit 3/4" stars inside. I think I'll plop a 1.5"x1" comet on top for a good "trunk". On the random side , I just cut 60 feet of 2" gummed tape into little strips for pasting. Comes out to 900 strips ,took me no more than 5-10 min thank to the help of my anvil cutters, man I love them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I know you have BAFN II (you posted an excerpt earlier), check out page 146. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ventsi Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 (edited) Hmm, interesting, they state that I should use a strong burst charge such as H3/KP on a 4" shell; fairly strong for that size. From what I'm seeing, for Palm Shells the star size is 1/3 the shell size. For a 3" that would be 1" ,IMO wayyy too big to fit in there! I guess I'll try and go for a more of a spider effect then , or a willow "droopy" type of shell. I'll make some bigger, faster burning stars to use in a "proper" Palm Shell if you will. Edit: The effect I was originally thinking of is called Dahlia, here is what was floating around in my head:http://pyroguide.com/index.php?title=Dahlia Edited January 14, 2010 by Ventsi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 The point I was trying to make is that the area for burst is so small that it's not going to really fire out very hard even with H3 or KP. I too agree that 1" stars would be too big. 5/8" or 3/4" sounds good. It's not like you're entering a competition, there is always room and time for improvement. Spider shells are canisters, otherwise they're called chrysanthemum shells. I actually don't know if Dahlia shells can use streamers. Peony shells by definition are colored. I also have no clue where PyroGuide got that definition. Somehow I have a feeling it comes from the same source as half of the rest of the site, which is pretty dark, moist, and smells like poo. The one I've always seen is "A Peony type shell made with very bright stars." or at least so says Shimizu in more eloquent words. They are usually made with fewer and larger stars though to make them more brilliant. The closest descriptor I could come up with is Sfera, but those are usually canisters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ventsi Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Spider shells are canisters? Thats new to me... This got me thinking, perhaps I'll put together some multi-break spider shells too... Well ya'll know the effect I'm talking about, if you don't , you'll see it in a month or so. And as far as PyroGuide goes, I'm with you, as an example I was recently browsing around it and found a "Burned Hair Stinkbomb" tutorial, I didn't know whether to laugh or cry, hopefully the Admins took care of it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I think I need to make a shell glossary just for you, heh. Yes, all spiders are canister shells to my knowledge. Spider shells are different from spider stars. They are also usually flash broken. This fact generally makes them impossible to make multibreaks from unless they are all side fused. The harsh break from the heavy flash bag generally is inconsistent as far as lighting the next spolette. You're sort of in luck though, in that you can always make a 5 timed spider shell, which is a very nice insert type shell. 5 isn't a set in stone number, just a size outlined in Fulcanelli. Since you're going to ask, it is 2 break canister shell. The first break contains inserts timed to go off regularly and sequentially, with a final full sized break. Here is a video: http://www.apcforum.net/Mumbles/5%20timed%20spider.wmv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swervedriver Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 That comp had a long hangtime. Looked nice Mumbles. Were those spider stars ball milled? My spider stars burn so darn fast, I'd have to change the comp a bit for my charcoal, or add a percentage of larger mesh after milling or something to get that type of burn. Large spread, but very short lived. What size can was that, and insert size if you recall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 They were not ball milled, which is why I picked it. It was a composition given by Mike Swisher. I am happy with the inserts (1/4" stars), but I need to play with the final break (1/2" stars). 5" canister, 1.75" ID inserts. The inserts were just a little bit too big. I am going to roll the inserts a little smaller next time. The last break had 12g of slow flash in it, which I don't think was enough, but it still came out looking quite nice. Next time there will be a harder final break with more of a stronger flash. KNO3 - 55C - 27.5S - 10.7Dex - 6.1Lampblack - 0.7 They're rounded off values FYI. It is designed to be screened together 3 times. I've only cut the comp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcooper Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Hello, I'm new in the fireworks making business and could really use some pointers. I wanting to make 3" aerial shells (salutes only) and I'm not really sure on ingredients. Any advice on what to use for the best bang and also the propellent would be appreciated. Like I said I'm new at this and I need to start somewhere. I've got the firecrackers down and want to move to making aerial so if anyone could help.....thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swervedriver Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 just wow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunzway Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Salutes are no place for a beginner to start. Aerial salutes are one of the more dangerous devices to construct and they are quite dangerous to fire if made incorrectly or even correctly for that matter. Not to mention the noise created is quite substantial and is a quick way to get people coming over to see what happened. I, as well as other forum members would high recommend you start from the basics so you are more educated and familiar with firework making techniques and safety. Personally, salutes can be entertaining at times but you'll find properly constructed fireworks that produce colors and patterns to be the real winner. A good place to start is to download 'Turbo Pyro' and read it. This forum also contains some very useful information as well as some very helpful and knowledgeable people, so use the resources here as well. Introductory Practical Pyrotechnics is also said to be another book that will aid you in this hobby. Begin with small devices and slowly progress into hard projects. By the time you've constructed a lot of other fireworks, I personally believe you would no longer be interested in making salutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Hello, I'm new in the fireworks making business and could really use some pointers. I wanting to make 3" aerial shells (salutes only) and I'm not really sure on ingredients. Any advice on what to use for the best bang and also the propellent would be appreciated. Like I said I'm new at this and I need to start somewhere. I've got the firecrackers down and want to move to making aerial so if anyone could help.....thank you Dude, K3wl! Please do not do this!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firetech Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 First off, you are not in the firework making business, if you were you would not be asking this. 2nd, you would not be calling anything 'ingredients' unless you were referring to the Anarchists Cookbook; It's called a formula. There's no place for boomers on this forum so if you plan to take that path then please refrain from posting in regard to such devices.Have fun d00d! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotails Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Well, while this is aimed at salutes, I've beed working on three side projects. the first is a small salute(about 5g of flash, desent seem like much, but there large enough for me) that has the fuse all the way through and out the side( so it was about 1/2inch of visco sticking out the top and bottom) i attached a small BP rocket(with 5% Atomized Al added) to the top of it, making use of the 1/2in of fuse sticking out. pasted the shell, attached the rocket with hot glue, and is waiting to be fired. I did a similer one with a tube filled of red flare on top. I also made a small(2in) shell with four salute inserts inside. I made these wile my stars dried. I made three salutes before(one with KP by mistake) In the shell with the four inserts, I timed them to go off (hopefully) one after the other. It also has a rising tail(metal willow). Im also sending up another shell using metal willow stars, and a metal willow rising tail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Well, while this is aimed at salutes, I've beed working on three side projects. the first is a small salute(about 5g of flash, desent seem like much, but there large enough for me) that has the fuse all the way through and out the side( so it was about 1/2inch of visco sticking out the top and bottom) i attached a small BP rocket(with 5% Atomized Al added) to the top of it, making use of the 1/2in of fuse sticking out. pasted the shell, attached the rocket with hot glue, and is waiting to be fired. I did a similer one with a tube filled of red flare on top. I also made a small(2in) shell with four salute inserts inside. I made these wile my stars dried. I made three salutes before(one with KP by mistake) In the shell with the four inserts, I timed them to go off (hopefully) one after the other. It also has a rising tail(metal willow). Im also sending up another shell using metal willow stars, and a metal willow rising tail. Mmmmmm, video! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotails Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 They should be shot tonight, or atleast a few of them.( need to assemble a few morters when i get home so all can be fired, or i'll have to do a few the next night) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrogeorge Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 3" Emerald Green ball shell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pretty green flame Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 3" Emerald Green ball shell Beautiful shell. It amazes me that a simple BP prime is enough for emerald greens stars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEskimo Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Beautiful shell. Wish my camera picked up the green like that I've never had a problem with them lighting with a BP prime with about 3%MagAl, and 1% spherical Ti. It was weird tho. The last batch I made, I also made some of the ruby red. They were made with the same exact dex. However, when dry, the green would crumble under pressure, and the red was rock hard. Anyone have this experience? They were the same size, 3/8in pumped, and were dried the same way, primed the same way, etc. I know that I had the right amount of dex in, because they would hold up fairly well, until in a shell, or crushed under my body weight. Strange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 You might have driven the green stars in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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