Mumbles Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 I'll offer what I can. I've heard conflicting things. I've been wanting to try myself to figure out fact from fiction. I attached a beraq tutorial written by Karlfoxman from UKPS, and a few related links on beraq. First a word on the tutorial I attached. It was written before Karl got really good at it, so there are a few things that have changed. I don't know what kind of string he shows in the end, but use normal spiking twine instead. I would also use a tongue fold instead of the twisting. He has also begun to punch after they are filled and spiked, he discusses this in one of the threads. The concept is pretty simple. A significantly slowed BP slurry is buttered onto the tubes with a hole in them. Gum Arabic, Red Gum, or Barium carbonate are generally used at between 5 and 25%. Gum Arabic is the traditional delay agent. The maltese, from what I can understand have a mixture tube thickness and formulas to generate a series of reports. I've seen them as large as 10 distinct timings. There are videos on youtube. I do not know for sure that they were done with this fusing method or not. I would stick with either modifying tube thickness or formula (tube thickness is easier) unless absolutely needed. Tom Schroeder posted something interesting. It's a tool to apply an even thickness of paint or coating to a surface. Tom suggested it would give an even thickness of coating on the outside to give a completely even and uniform coating. http://www.pyrosociety.org.uk/forum/topic/3277-beraqhttp://www.pyrosociety.org.uk/forum/topic/2123-maltese-beraqberaq_tutorial.doc
firetech Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 Interesting. I'm sure it'd work but I'd have trouble trusting that method.
Mumbles Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 It seems really simple but it works. It takes some practice, but everything does. They really only use it for salutes. I tend to think that the pupadelles still use spolettes or timefuse or something just from how they have to be made.
Ventsi Posted October 9, 2009 Posted October 9, 2009 My stuff from the fourth, felt like I should put it here.. enjoy!
NightHawkInLight Posted October 9, 2009 Posted October 9, 2009 Wow, lot of videos! Great fireworks, you had a few quite nice ones. A tip for the YouTube bit...You'll get more views if you stagger your uploads by a few days. It's better to keep a steady flow of content coming out rather than to put it all up in one intimidatingly large bunch.
Ventsi Posted December 4, 2009 Posted December 4, 2009 (edited) 30mm shell, 1/2" time fuse. Break was hot willow pulverone with .1g flash booster. I had my friend come over today and make this, stars were Weingart Granite. We also made a few cremoras and let me tell you, DO NOT USE DRY MILK for a fuel, it sucked. Made a hell of a lot of smoke though, more than any cremora I've ever seen. Ohh, and sorry I missed the break. Edited December 4, 2009 by Ventsi
Mumbles Posted December 4, 2009 Posted December 4, 2009 I believe powdered calf's milk or other animal sources can get up well over 50%. You'd have to get these from a farm supply store. I do believe it runs less than $1 a pound.
dagabu Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 I believe powdered calf's milk or other animal sources can get up well over 50%. You'd have to get these from a farm supply store. I do believe it runs less than $1 a pound. Tractor Supply has a milk substitute I have used, it works as well as Creamora. D
TheSidewinder Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 What's their price per pound, Dave? I do know it's a hell of a lot cheaper than buying individual bottles of Creamora. There's a TS store around here somewhere, too.
dagabu Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 What's their price per pound, Dave? I do know it's a hell of a lot cheaper than buying individual bottles of Creamora. There's a TS store around here somewhere, too. I can only find this one online but I remember a 50# bag in the store up in Elk River this summer was around $60.00. The last few pounds got hard and I tossed the bag when I was cleaning the shop this fall. $1.52 a pound. http://tiny.cc/keRDP Dave
TheSidewinder Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 Ok, that's a 25 lb. bag. Still a good price, at $1.52/lb. Of course, I'd rather pay $60 for the 50 lb. bag.
Miech Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 A month ago, I was playing around with my camera when
Ventsi Posted December 11, 2009 Posted December 11, 2009 I'm having a bit of dilemma here. I have a bunch of premade cans for shells but they are a bit of a hassle to work with. 2" cans 2mm thick with flap ends, they are really hard to close for one. I was wondering if I would get better breaks using a fresh rolled paper only, no glue casing rather than a tough premade one ?
dagabu Posted December 11, 2009 Posted December 11, 2009 I'm having a bit of dilemma here. I have a bunch of premade cans for shells but they are a bit of a hassle to work with. 2" cans 2mm thick with flap ends, they are really hard to close for one. I was wondering if I would get better breaks using a fresh rolled paper only, no glue casing rather than a tough premade one ? I would cut disks for the ends, dip the ends of the cans in water for just a second, let them rest for a few minutes (gets the paper pliable) and insert the disk, glue and fold the flaps. Place some weight on them until the glue drys. Do that to all your cans, flip to fill, punch holes in the disks for the fuse, wet the flaps again, fill with whatever, flash bag them, insert the disk and paste. Allow to dry, spike, cross match, prime, done! http://www.pyrobin.com/files/flash%20bag%20rolled.jpg D
Mumbles Posted December 11, 2009 Posted December 11, 2009 I'm not sure why you made the walls so thick. Even commercial tubes for large can shells are barely that thick. I use 2 turns of manilla folder, and 2 turns of 70lb kraft. The manilla is solely for the body. The overhanging kraft is what gets folded down. An end disk on each end. If you do it right, you only need a small strip of glue to hold down the outer most paper flap, which is also easily accomplished with masking tape. There are advantages to both ways. I would pick a way and dial it in. If you want I can try to describe how I do it, if you want change to a dry rolled method. You can still make them ahead of time on rainy days. I think Dave has a good idea with dipping the tubes in water to get them pliable though to make use of what you have.
Ventsi Posted December 11, 2009 Posted December 11, 2009 I dunno, I did make the wall way too thick, 1mm-2mm, I'll save them for later on and go with your method instead. Even with the method Dagabu describes its a PITA. I'll go with dry rolling since its a lot easier and faster to do. Thanks.
dagabu Posted December 11, 2009 Posted December 11, 2009 I dunno, I did make the wall way too thick, 1mm-2mm, I'll save them for later on and go with your method instead. Even with the method Dagabu describes its a PITA. I'll go with dry rolling since its a lot easier and faster to do. Thanks. Ventsi, No, I think it will be easier then you think. Only dipping the ends in water if any different then a nornal can build which you will have to do anyway if you are staying with traditional building. D
deejannon Posted December 12, 2009 Posted December 12, 2009 4'' shell tiger tail to red: WOW What a great shell
pianomistro Posted December 12, 2009 Posted December 12, 2009 WOW What a great shell That it was. Broke a little soon before apex, but an awesome shell nonetheless. Thanks for dragging that one up from the bottom.
Gunzway Posted December 12, 2009 Posted December 12, 2009 Apologies for changing the topic. But does anyone think it would be possible to use 'kyoku-do' for small shells such as 2" or 3"? If anyone is confused with what I'm asking here, I mean rising effects such as ascending comets, ascending small flowers and ascending thunder. Or would it be unrealistic to think of doing such effects on such small shells? Maybe some small ascending small flowers could be possible. But feel free to give opinions or just a general guideline of how big a shell needs to be for it to work properly. I'm just taking advantage of my own night of slightly safer shooting to try some more complicated and trickier things. Examples: http://pyrobin.com/files/p1000719.jpghttp://pyroguide.com/images/c/c6/Rising_effect2.gif
TrueBluePyro Posted December 12, 2009 Posted December 12, 2009 (edited) The Other day we had people come over for a BBQ, so I just put something together quickly, I didnt have any stars made, so I just made a 3" salute. To make it a bit more interesting I packed it with Titaium and added to poloma crackers to the side of the shell, they went off before the big 3" salute went off so it was kinda a biuld up. The break radius of the Titainum break was huge! I think you could do something fancy on a 2 or inch shell. Looked at your first photo, kinda the same idea as mine with the polomas (I know im spelling it wrong), but I just went a bit cheap and easyer and it still work with a good report. Edited December 12, 2009 by TrueBluePyro
Klaaskroegbaas Posted December 19, 2009 Posted December 19, 2009 Another dutch farfalle shell has been fired, this time I made a 4 inch. The farfalle inserts are filled with meal powder and 30% 250-400 mesh aluminium powder. The break is meal coated rice hulls with 16 grams of slowflash. the lift was 50 grams of pulverone and the total shell weight was 700 gram. what do you people think of it?
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