Mumbles Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 I found another video. The timing isn't quite right, but you get the idea. 5 timed spider. I used 1/4" spolette differences between breaks. I think I will use 5/16" or 3/8" next time, and break it a bit earlier in it's flight. I hope to get the big shell breaking harder. It's hard to believe that had 12g of flash in it. I'll use 70-30 next time. http://www.apcforum.net/Mumbles/5%20timed%20spider.wmv
psyco_1322 Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Nice shell Mumbles. That is hard to believe that thing was loaded down with 12g of vitamin F. Was that a sfera (sp?) bottom shot?
Weasel Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 I found another video. The timing isn't quite right, but you get the idea. 5 timed spider. I used 1/4" spolette differences between breaks. I think I will use 5/16" or 3/8" next time, and break it a bit earlier in it's flight. I hope to get the big shell breaking harder. It's hard to believe that had 12g of flash in it. I'll use 70-30 next time. http://www.apcforum.net/Mumbles/5%20timed%20spider.wmv Wow. That was amazing! That has to be one of the very best shells I have seen. Very good job!
Mumbles Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Thank you for the compliments. I was satisfied with it for sure. Could be improved, but not bad for a first attempt. The big shell was not a sfera. It was just a normally packed shell, just with 12g of flash as the break. I used some slow flash that I boost my breaks with. Next time it will be 70-30. The flash bag was not pasted or taped shut. I almost wonder if the flash leaked out and mixed in with the stars and pulverone filler. Even for slow flash, it should still break good and hard. I made a 4" single shot spider that nearly covered the entire sky when it broke, though it used 70-30. Probably better that it didn't break at full strength. You never would have seen the full thing with how far in it was zoomed. Plus I probably would have bombarded some people. I kind of liked the effect. I probably wont break the bottoms too hard for future ones. I am planning to make a few more this summer. I want to try a 9 timed spider. That will definitely have a sfera bottom break. I figured I could get away with a normal break on this one since I can do it on sun and planet shells. Plus if I do sfera, I can use crossettes for a little something extra.
Puriss Posted January 19, 2009 Posted January 19, 2009 Wondering what formula you're using...D1 glitter uses atomized Al, not MgAl: Potassium Nitrate....................53Sulfur....................................18Charcoal, AF...........................11Aluminum, spher, 325 mesh.....7Sodium Bicarbonate.................7Dextrin...................................4 Sorry I looked at a modified version of D1 containing both Al and Mg/Al.
Stinger Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 Hey all Long time no post, but lots of things had changed during the time I did not post. I got much more stuff to make pyrotechnic things, and well, here you go, a picture of my first 3" Ball Shell I made: http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/53/s8000111bh1.th.jpg http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/8816/s8000115fw5.th.jpg It is filled with Buell Red stars and 4 bee inserts ( 1 1/2"*1/3") , 2 of them in green and 2 of them are red.The burts charge is BP coated on rice flakes and 3g of Whistle Mix were added as a booster.A 3 seconds spolette is used as a time delay. I think I am going to fire it this weekend and I will record the shell of course Greets and regards, Stinger
optimus Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 Good luck with that, certainly looks viable! Very neat for a first 3".
PyroMan LTU Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 nice shell! dave buell red stars ar one of the best red's i know, film it, love to see that in action good luck! PyroMan LTU
Stinger Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 Hey all I fired the shell today and I was very pleased with the result.I cheated with the inner petal using dragon eggs but overall it was a very nice result for my first 3" Round Shell. Enjoy the show: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FBhl8avP-w I plan to make more of these little honeys in the future Greets Stinger
Seymour Posted January 24, 2009 Posted January 24, 2009 (edited) That's a great first three inch shell Stinger! You should be proud of yourself. Here are a couple of clips from my New Years Eve show. The first one is two three inch mines fired simultaneously. One D1 Glitter, and the other one Blue and Brocade. The second is a rack or Tigertail shells and mines, All 3". The Tigertail stars had Zinc cores. http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=0EjAPw1s2Js&...re=channel_pagehttp://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=WCW1s48YsHc&...re=channel_page Unfortunately the camera with the rest of the show is at a friends house, and he has gone away, resulting in pyro withdrawal symptoms on my part. I hope to get my fix soon, and I'll post it when that eventuates! Edited January 24, 2009 by Seymour
GraafVaag Posted January 24, 2009 Posted January 24, 2009 Awesome effect with the zinc cores! I'll try that too since I've got some coarse Zn somewhere.. Nice work!
Seymour Posted January 28, 2009 Posted January 28, 2009 That is a very good shell, especially as it's your first four incher. Everything behaved almost perfectly. What are the construction details? Star size and shape, burst, pasting and so forth? Keep it up.
hondo Posted January 28, 2009 Posted January 28, 2009 (edited) here is my first 8 inch shell, time fuse was a little long and could have used a few more layers of gummed kraft tape http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=keLT14yL9lE Edited January 28, 2009 by hondo
Richtee Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 OK...so now I have a use..I THINK for the 3.5" tubes...but my 3" tubes have .25 walls. Isn't that a bit heavy for anything but a salute can? I have never really made cylinder shells before.
Bonny Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 (edited) OK...so now I have a use..I THINK for the 3.5" tubes...but my 3" tubes have .25 walls. Isn't that a bit heavy for anything but a salute can? I have never really made cylinder shells before. Are your 3" tubes 3" OD with .25 walls? If so you could probably make can shells , but it will require heavy spiking to avoid a bowtie or hose break. This may shatter the stars/comets though. Regardless, bowtie breaks are nice anyway, so why not try and go for that? Edited January 29, 2009 by Bonny
Richtee Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 Are you 3" tubes 3" OD with .25 walls? If so you could probably make can shells , but it will require heavy spiking to avoid a bowtie or hose break. This may shatter the stars/comets though. Regardless, bowtie breaks are nice anyway, so why not try and go for that? 3" ID with .25" walls... my 3" gun tubes. Have an endless supply of 24" lengths. Bowtie...out each end? Maybe this should be in the Noob section eh?
Bonny Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 3" ID with .25" walls... my 3" gun tubes. Have an endless supply of 24" lengths. Bowtie...out each end? Maybe this should be in the Noob section eh? That would make for a pretty tight fit if you did any spiking... Another option would be to make them 3" aerial mines, then all the goodness only has to blast out one end.
Richtee Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 That would make for a pretty tight fit if you did any spiking... Another option would be to make them 3" aerial mines, then all the goodness only has to blast out one end. Right... OK... Yeah it is tight. Would need to be just endcaps near as I can figger and maybe a single wrap of Kraft. Ah well. A. mines would be cool, and IF I get the urge to do a couple salute cans.. :{) I DO like the BP ones in the daylight...looks like "ack-ack" <Old time anti-aircraft> fire...big ole cloud of smoke up 300 foot :{)
Mumbles Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 I'm not sure what you mean by they would be tight if you did any spiking? My 4" cans start on a 3.5" former. They end up around 3.8" OD if not more. This includes the chipboard, the kraft can, the spiking, pasting, leader, and dry wrap. If anything, I'd expect shells made from that to be undersized. I think you just need to start making some nice 4" multibreaks with bottom shot. With some reinforcement, you could make some nice fountains. Honestly, I think you should look into making some roman candles. They're pretty simple, and could be constructed in 3 or 4 shot from what you have there.
psyco_1322 Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 3" Roman Candles would be cool to see. Those tubes will work for any 4" "salute". Whether its a single shot aerial salute or a bottom shot in a shell. They would also make very acceptable mortars for 3" shells. Any type of shell is not a good option, unless your going for the aerial mine look, then watch out for those falling cases. My idea..... 4" LAMPARES BABY!!!
Richtee Posted January 29, 2009 Posted January 29, 2009 3" Roman Candles would be cool to see. Those tubes will work for any 4" "salute". Whether its a single shot aerial salute or a bottom shot in a shell. They would also make very acceptable mortars for 3" shells. Any type of shell is not a good option, unless your going for the aerial mine look, then watch out for those falling cases. My idea..... 4" LAMPARES BABY!!!Well..dammit..the whole DEAL was I THOUGHT I was getting 4" tubes..of which I have NONE! I have bastard 3.5" ID's Sooo... 3" lampare? :{)
psyco_1322 Posted January 30, 2009 Posted January 30, 2009 So your tube is 3.5" ID, and 4" OD? This changes things a lot.
Richtee Posted January 30, 2009 Posted January 30, 2009 So your tube is 3.5" ID, and 4" OD? This changes things a lot.No 3.5" ID with 3.75" OD... .25 walls. So I only have a tight .25 clearance between a hunk of my 3" ID tubes, as they have .25 walls as well. <3.25" OD>
Pretty green flame Posted January 30, 2009 Posted January 30, 2009 No 3.5" ID with 3.75" OD... .25 walls. So I only have a tight .25 clearance between a hunk of my 3" ID tubes, as they have .25 walls as well. <3.25" OD> Sorry, but, Huh? If you have tubes with an ID of 3.5" and walls .25" that makes the OD 4" exactly.
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