FREAKYDUTCHMEN Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 Yep those shells are very nice zmuro! Here is a mini compilation i've made: http://www.pyrobin.com/files/mini%20compilatie.m4v
Richtee Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 These is my new year display New Year 2009DUDE! <bow> Art...it's art I say!
qwezxc12 Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 Wow...to all who put on a NYE display, congrats! All looked excellent. Zmuro...really nice stuff! Just finished assembling a few cans tonight...man, spiking with Sisal is a pain. It seems pretty strong, but it looks like shit. Quick question: Has anyone pasted in cans with paper tape as opposed to craft? I was looking at a pile of 75lb. re-enforced tape rolls and decided 'what the hell'...and gave it a whirl. It applied nicely; both the two 5in and the 6in can got 8 layers (4 over-lapping - two layers vertical, two layers horizontal) Has anyone else done this?
TheSidewinder Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 Several people deserve congratulations here. Great job, everyone!
Puriss Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 I had 12 3"-shells and 2 3"-starmines on NYE. The person who held the camera had got to much to drink and the rising comets did fall of the shells to early. D1 glitter, the break was perfect. I had a lot of stars that didn´t ignite, to hard break I think. I lot of nonsymetrical breaks as well. Something to work with. This is the last part of the show.
Arte valdo Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 My janury 1 pyro show video, sorry for my englishhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kce6tWcWM0s
MilkyJoe Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 Great stuff! What stars were in the mines at 30 seconds? They had really nice tails when they fell back down!
Arte valdo Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 The stars where Tiger tail made whith home made pine charcoal
MilkyJoe Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 Hmm they don't look like my tiger tail! Yours have a nice sort of purpley head that gives a rain effect, maybe its just the camera picking it up strangely or something.
qwezxc12 Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 No takers on using tape for can shells? I guess I'll be the guinea pig, then (though it seems unlikely that I'm actually the first). I taped up a couple of 4in cans last night and the process went even easier now that I'm getting the technique down. 16 sisal twine verticals, 4-5 horizontals, two overlapping vertical layers of tape alternating with two horizontal. One can is 16x 1" OD Ti hummers, the other is 3/8" C8 to flashcore and a ring of 1" D1 comets. Using a 1.25" cannule filled with RG corned Alder BP. Hope they work, 'cause tape is much easier than breaking craft and pasting!
Mumbles Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 Never tried the gummed paper tape. It seems interesting though. I've heard of people spiking canister shells (yes, paper ones) with plastic strapping tape. Most amateur attempts resulted in flower pot, but I've heard of it used successfully on a professional scale. Still doesn't save from the pasting though. Should be interesting. There is just something about breaking in paper and pasting in canister shells that I enjoy. Yes it's cold, slimy, and wet, but it just feels right. Pretty easy to know you're getting a good seal too. I've used gummed tape to seal up the corners before spiking and pasting, but thats it. I think the only reason I like it so much is that it's less tedious than pasting in ball shells. Only one or two big sheets instead of dozens to hundreds of tiny strips. Since I started using virgin kraft though, I don't have to worry about ripping the sheets. Hell, I can barely rip the paper when I try.
psyco_1322 Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 I seen a guy at the convention this year pasting a rather large, probably 8" 2 or 3 break, with gummed craft. He had it on a roller on the table with one of those commercial tape dispensers beside it. They look and act like old accounting machines that have the big handle you put down. Well this one spit out lengths of craft, cut them, and wetted them all the same time with one pull of the handle. He would past it onto the shell in a vertical manner, covering from the top to the bottom. Strips were about 1". I observed just a few minutes of him doing this, and came in at the end of his process, so I have no idea what he had done before.
qwezxc12 Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) Well, I'll be sure to video the results, good or bad...well, if they're TOO bad perhaps not. I currently have two 4in, two 5in, and the 6in can...and I'll have a few more made before I can get out to shoot. As an aside, a good friend of mine just emailed me pics from the July 5th bonfire shoot..some lame excuse that she just found her xD card reader or something. There's actually a few good ones of some of my shells. By my fuzzy recollection and notes they probably were, from left to right: 4in Charcoal streamer with Ti4in C8 to flash-core4in Ruby red breaking behind a 500g cake6in Yellow with D1 rising comet Edited January 7, 2009 by qwezxc12
randy499 Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) This is my first canister shell that I made. I have made ball shells before but this my first canister. The shell is not pasted or spiked with string. Its heavily wrapped in fiber-glass tape. It wasn't the right size so i wrapped a bunch of paper around it and taped it on so that it would fit. Broke with a flash assisted pulverone. It has 2 insert shells and assorted D-1 stars. Edited January 8, 2009 by randy499
Richtee Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 This is my first canister shell that I made. I have made ball shells before but this my first canister. The shell is not pasted or spiked with string. Its heavily wrapped in fiber-glass tape. It wasn't the right size so i wrapped a bunch of paper around it and taped it on so that it would fit. Broke with a flash assisted pulverone. It has 2 insert shells and assorted D-1 stars. Seems like a too long time delay? ;{)
psyco_1322 Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 Where does he say anything about a time delay? I think that multi-colored thing on the side of it is the leader.
Richtee Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) Where does he say anything about a time delay? I think that multi-colored thing on the side of it is the leader. I dunno.... I'm STILL waiting for the break! Sorry... was just a joke from a twisted mind. On Edit: OK... it was lame. I was referring to no video. I HATE having to explain myself. Edited January 8, 2009 by Richtee
Swede Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 Looks good to me. If it works, that's what counts. I like the Slow-fast-slow fuse setup. CannonFuse.com sells fast fuse if you don't want to mess with match. Burns about 4 seconds (maybe) per foot, so it works well as a leader for small 2" shells.
Gunzway Posted January 10, 2009 Posted January 10, 2009 Just to add from a few pages back in regards to D1 glitter stars and boric acid. I stated I have never had a reaction with D1 glitter stars not using boric acid. Well, I've had it about twice now. It seems to be triggered when I try drying them in heat/sun light. I get the Ammonia smell, they begin to heat up and somewhat liquidify? They are fine when they are not being dried in sunlight. I've never had a reaction whilst just drying them inside. So I guess I will be using boric acid from now on.
tentacles Posted January 10, 2009 Posted January 10, 2009 It's certainly possible, as UV is known to catalyze some reactions.. Or it could just be that your water (Tap?) chemistry is different in some way (more basic).
Puriss Posted January 14, 2009 Posted January 14, 2009 Just to add from a few pages back in regards to D1 glitter stars and boric acid. I stated I have never had a reaction with D1 glitter stars not using boric acid. Well, I've had it about twice now. It seems to be triggered when I try drying them in heat/sun light. I get the Ammonia smell, they begin to heat up and somewhat liquidify? They are fine when they are not being dried in sunlight. I've never had a reaction whilst just drying them inside. So I guess I will be using boric acid from now on. I have never had a reaction with D1. I´m always drying the stars in the shade with a fan, blowing cold air on them. Boric acid can cause problem, attacking the Mg/Al. How this will effect the stars maybe someone else has the answer to.
Mumbles Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 Boric acid does not attack MgAl to my knowledge. I don't know where you heard that. Any carbonate, probably even charcoal, is far more likely to cause a problem than boric acid. It's pretty much benign in compositions.
qwezxc12 Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 (edited) I have never had a reaction with D1. I´m always drying the stars in the shade with a fan, blowing cold air on them. Boric acid can cause problem, attacking the Mg/Al.... Wondering what formula you're using...D1 glitter uses atomized Al, not MgAl: Potassium Nitrate....................53Sulfur....................................18Charcoal, AF...........................11Aluminum, spher, 325 mesh.....7Sodium Bicarbonate.................7Dextrin...................................4 Edited January 15, 2009 by qwezxc12
FREAKYDUTCHMEN Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 4" finaly break was good.. Well done Pyroman LTU!
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