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Posted

Psyco: Thank you! I don´t want belive in pumping of small dragon egges in to the matrix comet, because it is more complicate, and mainly, as you wrote: "they burnt like a normal charcoal star until apogee - when they burnt out, then the dragon eggs would all just go off right in a little cloud were the star burnt out."

Charcoal tail + eggs http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=vbYOrwxzwuc but I still thing, that effect which I looking for, is a composition which is uniform in the walue of the comet, not special grains.

Fuchs crackle is only glitter, and produce twinkling globules, but stars from wideos produce brittle sound, cracks.

 

I mus find any contacts to japanaese and chinese young people, people compliant talk and write about this and more problems with pyrotechnics, because in the Japanese are many young man as fireworkers, but language always broke down my effort to contact.

 

http://travel.nifty.com/special/summer/cs/...726106631/1.htm 00:27 crackling palm.

 

Karlos

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Posted
That first video definitely looks like a matrix type of comet as the crackles seem to be operating independent of the comet. The second video had some really nice shells in their. As for that crackling palm, Im unsure, probably a pop glitter of some sort. As I was saying, the Fuchs Pop Glitter needs some additional sulfur if you want it to become a crackling type effect. I suppose when he made the formula he could have been using different chemicals that produced the effect he wanted. But do try pop glitter with about +5% sulfur added. I think I will make up a few of those old matrix dragon egg comets and shoot them just to see how they look. Ill post a video later.
Posted

psyco_1322: Thank you. Do you thing typical compound + 5% S in addition?

If you use modified type, with hot meal, resulting composition is follows, c. 47 KN, 9 C, 14 S, 14 Mg/Al, 11 Sb2S3, 5 CuO. if you add 5% S, will be sulphur in 18%, is it right? Frank Rizzo added 10% S, and effect was good too.

Fuchs is uncertain. Sometimes burn with cracks, sometimes as Blackpowder star without cracks.....

NC as binder is important.

 

Karel.

Posted

Well, if you add it right ;) 14+5=19, it should be about 19%. Im not sure if this is enough, you might need to go up to 10% as par Rizzos suggestions. I would say start low and add more if need. Make a batch of based comp, say 100g, and take portions out of it and add different ratios of sulfur to them until you find a desired effect.

 

The last time I made pop glitter, I did bind it with dextrin, the effect...was not a crackle. It was more like win20 with a longer hanging strobe effect. The original formula called for dextrin, and from the notes on the star on passfire, they should be strobey like stars. The first time I made them I bound with NC and got a very different effect.

Posted

Here is a green 3" shell fired yesterday. Maybe the colour was a little bit washed out, but it was green. In the video the stars looked white I don´t know why?!

 

Posted
that was pretty nice, I think. good burst :)
Posted

Nice break.

 

I think your camera didn't catch the green due to oversaturation of the CCD. Setting the light sensitivity lower and/or ajusting the white balance will usually yield a better color on film. Also, green is always a difficult color for camera's, because most camera's use a filter picking up green twice as much as other colors. A little piece of hardware rendering reduces the amount showed in the final image, but oversaturation isn't corrected properly.

Posted

Hey, guys! I have just fired my first two 3" shells, I know they werent perfect, but for fitst time I am quite satisfied, I used very old hemis for them and I should have done more pasting as well... So:

 

 

Posted
Nice 3" shells guys. Really like your colors PyroMan, especially that blue, its a keeper.
Posted

Usually a 3" shell would contain more then 8 stars =P

 

I assume many "blue" blind? ;) other then the lack of stars that blue was amazing! nice job!

 

~Milky~

Posted
Nice shells PyroMan, but you should work on your break. Instead of H3 use KP or BP on rice hulls with some flash added and maybe little more pasting. I got very good results with KP break and another thing, I think that 14mm stars are a bit too large for 3" shell, you should use 8-10mm stars, so the effect will be more dense.
Posted
yes - I will definitely use smaller stars, and I know that I need to work on the burst I should have done more pasting as well, and, This time, I think I made crappy H3, well these were 100% pure test shells so I will work on it, and will write results so, thanks for help :) P.S does H3 require flash booster? I heard that H3 has enough power it self...
Posted

H3 does not require a flashbooster. I've used H3 a few times untill I realised mine got so well it just wouldn't hold up anymore. If H3 is done properly it will have plenty of power to break a shell with no problems at all.

 

I think the problem with your break is your pasting as you've already said. How did you do your pasting? How many layers did you do?

Posted

I did five layers of 70lb craft, but also I used very old and thinn hemis, I think I have problems with H3 first bach worked pretty well:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GeLFkCTZoY

 

but this is not so poverfull, also I used stars wich vere too big and left very little space for H3, I putted like 12g or so, dont know, but it semmed very little.

Posted
The hemis don't really play much of a role in burst symmetry or diameter. Well, that's assuming your hemis are spherical to begin with. It's all pasting. Yeah, more pasting is needed. Something on the order of 8-10 layers, and you'll probably want to use thinner paper if possible. It will lay down better. You will likely notice an increase in performance from an equal thickness of paper. I had issues when using too thick of paper in smaller shells. Thinner paper seemed to break more evenly, even if they had the same overall thickness. Additionally, smaller stars will give a better burst. I use maximum of about 3/8" (9-10mm), but prefer 1/4" (6mm). As you said before, you will be able to get more burst in there, which will improve the symmetry and burst strength.
Posted
thank you, Mumbles, that helped a lot! I'll will write results how everything will turn out :)
Posted
May I ask you why your H3 seems to be such HUGE pieces? If you wanna get rid of the flash or benzolift as a booster try ricing it like you would with regular pulverone.
Posted
Or make pulverone with it. That stuff kicks ass so much I rarely use it.
Posted

Or coat it onto a filler. Solid granules will very quickly increase the weight of your shell while providing no little extra power. It might work alright for a 3" shell, but it's definitly overkill on 4". I have no practical experience with this method outside of small canister shells.

 

My thought is just to get the pressure as high as possible as fast as possible, as this is what provides the explusive force. While I am sure solid granules have the potential to achieve a higher pressure, I am unsure if it would offer any advantage before the shell walls were to fail.

 

This being said, in the 4" video he posted, it looks like the burst is on a carrier. The burst seems pretty strong. So if it works, and it's economical, I'd stick with it. I do like having a burst that I can use on any sized shell I desire though. Those large of granules likely would preform poorly in a 3" shell. I generally use KP on rice hulls. I was experimenting with puffed rice cereal with good results as well. They shrink enough that they could probably be used in a 3" shell. I got some cotton seed for large shells (8"+). I don't really consider that into my burst economics as I have to use a gentler burst on these, so it's made separate anyway.

Posted
Zmuro: Lovely, nice balls. Colored stars? Will be video? Must be!!!! >:-(
Posted
I'm looking forward to see the video of these :P . Nice pasting job though, when I try the 'WASP method' I never get them that smooth. I stick (pun intended) to wheat paste and the 3 strip method.
Posted

Do you have any secret to getting the paper to lay down so smoothly with that wide of paper? Even on 4" I can barely approach what you have there.

 

I do it a bit differently than you do, but generally I cheat on the last layer. I use overlapping layers while leaving poles on either end, and I do rotate where my poles end up so as to keep it spherical. On the last layer I use single layers and leave no pole, and get the tape quite wet. This lays it down much smoother, and gives a really professional appearance. Well professional until I bombard it with masking and strapping tape in adding the leader and lift.

Posted
hey, zmuro, can you tell me whats the star comp ir your piro picnic? I wrote a coment there :)

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