qwezxc12 Posted January 2, 2008 Posted January 2, 2008 Yeah, no kidding...nice shells. So the glitter in the shells at 1:20 - 1:30 was Win20? It had a very nice (long) delay and awesome flashes, almost like a strobe.
Zmuro Posted January 2, 2008 Posted January 2, 2008 Yeah, no kidding...nice shells. So the glitter in the shells at 1:20 - 1:30 was Win20? It had a very nice (long) delay and awesome flashes, almost like a strobe. Yes, it was Win 20 composition.
BPinthemorning Posted January 2, 2008 Posted January 2, 2008 can the aluminum in d1 be changed out for mg?
hst45 Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 Reminds me of when we hand launched 1.75" shells Light the visco and throw as high as you can That actually remind me of what has to be the single dumbest, most dangerous thing that I've ever seen in my pyro life. Back when I was about 10 years old or so, I was at a 4th of July party at my uncles camp. One particular genius had gotten a bunch of M-80s, and, unfortunately, also a bottle of Jack Daniels. Our hero decided that it would be good to have an air-burst over the lake with the aforementioned charges. Hmmm... how the best light and launch these....hey... I know what-let's-do...Paul, go get me your slingshot. With an assembled company of perhaps 50 people ranging in age from 3 to 93 crowing around, our hero lit a Marlboro, put an M-80 in the slingshot, pulled it back, and lit the M-80 with the cigarette dangling from him mouth, and let fly. ......And we all backed away......... There are some things that no one has to tell you are a BAD idea, you just instinctively know it, and having an explosive an inch or so from your face defiantly qualifies. Well, our Darwin Award applicant was lucky that day and escaped injury. The really scary part; the guy was a COP! Guess where the M-80's came from !
Mumbles Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 can the aluminum in d1 be changed out for mg? No, it cannot. It does not undergo the proper reactions to produce glitter.
BPinthemorning Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 Thats what I thought, but I had to check with those a bit more experienced. Thank you for saving me part of my valuable suplies.
psyco_1322 Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 I made some 3 and 2 inch can shells for NYE and they always turned into starmines like it went off before leaving the tube and I don't know what my problem was? It was a nice effect b/c the stars went up pretty high. My aunt forgot the video camera at the hotel . My 3 inch plastic ball shells also didn't work to well, well they were fine but instead of a break the the shell shattering the hemis just split. I collect a top and bottom hemi from my 3 inch ones and this did happen once with a 4" b/c I think the PVC Primer didn't dry but it was still nice. Sounds like you need to learn how to make the shells properly.
mormanman Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 Thanks for the advice. Maybe a little more detail.
FrankRizzo Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 Reminds me of when we hand launched 1.75" shells Light the visco and throw as high as you can Great idea...moron
mormanman Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Reminds me of when we hand launched 1.75" shells Light the visco and throw as high as you can Great idea...moron LOL would one be a moron if it was 1" shells though.
Zmuro Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 I would like to make some color stars (red and green), so whitch stars are better, organically or matallic fuled? Can you advise me whitch formulas shoul I use for the best results.
Mumbles Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Reminds me of when we hand launched 1.75" shells Light the visco and throw as high as you can Great idea...moron LOL would one be a moron if it was 1" shells though. Yes, as a matter of fact you would. Now, colored stars. It honestly depends. Organic stars are cheaper, but easier to get good color out of. Metallic stars are brighter, and harder to get good temperatures. For colors like blue and purple, it is difficult to get a good metallic star, though it can be done. I like the ruby red and emerald green stars for metallic. They have excellent color. For organic, the shimizu or conkling colors are usually pretty good.
TzaRocket Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Hi guys,before new year eve i tested out something.I made a 3 inch test shell wich i filled whit some black powder and Mg flackes.I used 10 g of powdered benzolift for lift.I tought it would blow the tube to pieces,but instead it shot the test shell quite high.My New year eve 2 inch shells all used 6 g of powdered benzolift and they all went perfectly(I had 40 shells) and the 3 inch ass well.At the end i had only 2 shell,3 inch each,that had 15 g of benzolift powder.As i tought ,bought my 3 inch mortars were splitted in half and the shells blew on the ground. This is a video of the 3 inch test shell:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g76bDSRE4tM
crazyboy25 Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 if 15 grams of lift is destroying your mortars you really need to get better mortars are you using cardboard mortars? if so what are the dimensions? i once used 100g of granulated BP lift in my 4" HDPE mortar the shell lifted fine (although very high) and my mortar was completely fine.
TzaRocket Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Well please dont compare benzolift whit BP.My cardboard mortar had 3 inch int diam and had 2 cm tick wall.Thinck that 50 g of whistle mix destroyed a tube like this with no problem,and it was not covered with anything.Still benzolift is a very powerdull lift beacuse it contains 10 g of whistle and only 4 g of BP.It is very good IF you don't exeed the limit wich is 10 g for me.
mormanman Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 LOL would one be a moron if it was 1" shells though.Yes, as a matter of fact you would. But it would be kind of like lighting a cherry bomb or an M-80 only a little weaker. And deadman told me once and its aways worked for me "If you can stand on it, its strong enough." So the weakest I've gone was a 4" mail tube and I reinforced the bottom the the tubes plug and some I think military grade duct tape. I wish I knew a forual to see how much presure was put on that tube. I figure that the shells were going 71 mps (I think I did the math wrong) The shells hang time was 4.5 seconds and went about 200-250' in the air with only a tenth of the weight of the shell as a lift, so about .8 oz.
Caramanos2000 Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Hell I used 200g in a 1" HDPE tube on new Years to see what would happen. It was loud as hell and blew the mortar off the base but it was fine.
hst45 Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 LOL would one be a moron if it was 1" shells though.Yes, as a matter of fact you would. But it would be kind of like lighting a cherry bomb or an M-80 So....are you trying to CONFIRM the diagnosis?!??!?
Mumbles Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 I honestly have a hard time believing that 15g of benzolift would destroy your mortars if your mortar was made with any sort of quality. I've fired 3" shells with over 20g of benzolift out of shitty mortars, and they still survived. Another issue might be the fact that you're for some reason not granulating the product. Oh by the way mormanman, you're HE acess is stripped. I don't think you have the mental facilities, nor maturity to handle it.
psyco_1322 Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Thanks for the advice. Maybe a little more detail. Go to this site:http://www.pyrotechs.org/content/view/18/44/ Get a user name and stuff. Read the tutorial on the crossette shell, its basically how Ive been making shells. The one on the 4" canister is also good. That should get you going in a good direction.
crazyboy25 Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 yeah those are really good tutorials frozentech really did a nice job with them he is very knowledgeable i feel really bad for him though he really put a lot of effort into that website and if you look in his forum all 25 posts are by him except one reply and one post by "admin" its a shame.
mormanman Posted January 5, 2008 Posted January 5, 2008 Thanks for the advice. Maybe a little more detail.Go to this site:http://www.pyrotechs.org/content/view/18/44/ Get a user name and stuff. Read the tutorial on the crossette shell, its basically how Ive been making shells. The one on the 4" canister is also good. That should get you going in a good direction. Thanks. Sorry if I seemed like a jerk with the first post you just didn't really help me just told me I needed something that I already knew that I needed thats though.
oskarchem Posted January 5, 2008 Posted January 5, 2008 Shit, put to much lift and the shell didn't ignite... Oh, well going back to the lab to make a cylindrical shell... since I have no more kinder surprise eggs (I have ordered sone 1 3/4" shells from pyrocreations with a ball mill)
Mumbles Posted January 5, 2008 Posted January 5, 2008 Too much lift wouldn't make the shell not light. Are you sure it wasn't manufacture error?
oskarchem Posted January 6, 2008 Posted January 6, 2008 I've heard people say that because of too much lift the fuse didn't ignite. The fuse was standard Visco, cut at a angle as to make a lot of BP stand out, and primed the fuse with BP slurry. Oh well I will try to look for the shell tomorrow, if I cannot find it I hill just make a new one...
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