Eagle66 Posted September 7, 2014 Posted September 7, 2014 (edited) I have an idea about a mallet to use for ramming gerbes, rockets, etc. The usual recommendation for this is a rawhide mallet. I’ve been pricing them, finding that they are they are, like many tools, very expensive. Being of a frugal (some say cheap) nature, I’ve researched other less pricey hammers/mallets, but according to most other pyros, the other kinds are not good for many reasons.I have one like this I got from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3179-35mm-Double-Face-Mallet/dp/B000NPR2U8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1409933342&sr=1-1&keywords=tekton+3179+35mm+double-face+soft+mallet Not expensive, either, under $10. The problem is that it is also too soft, too bouncy, too light, etc. The good part is that the faces screw off for replacement, different kinds of faces, etc. So, here’s my idea. I cast a replacement face out of lead. No bounce, not too hard, non-sparking, heavy enough for the tough stuff. The weight of the head alone is almost 1#. The cost? $1 & change for the hardware. The mallet assembly’s weight is almost 2-1/2#. Before I start swinging, I would appreciate any input. Edited September 7, 2014 by Eagle66
Mortartube Posted September 7, 2014 Posted September 7, 2014 I think the face will deform very quickly and become useless. If if deforms to an angle, it might glance off of the drift and cause injury. I may be wrong, but that's my opinion. If it does deform with each blow, that is wasted energy not going into your ramming.
Bobosan Posted September 7, 2014 Posted September 7, 2014 I agree with Mortartube unless you are using wood dowel for rammers. Extra hard lead would help keep face deformation minimized.
pyrokid Posted September 7, 2014 Posted September 7, 2014 Dead blow hammers with a synthetic face are available from hardware stores for about $20.
MrB Posted September 7, 2014 Posted September 7, 2014 Dead blow hammers with a synthetic face are available from hardware stores for about $20.Lead hammers are usually available for twice that, and more often then not they have some sort of replacement system where you pay 20 bucks for a new head on your used hammer. And, if you make a lead hammer bounce, your good. Even the sand / shoot filled orange deadblow hammers have a bounce to them, and unlike lead hammers, they have a crack, shatter, and leak issue going on. Most the time that will get you a new replacement for free, regardless of age, but thats not really the point... Lead hammer heads have been used as deadblow hammers for ages. With the introduction with shoot-filled plastic hammers they went out of fashion. The "real deal" is simply a mold that fits on a handle, you put the beaten head in a melting pot, and pull the handle out as the lead melts. Fit the mold, casingt a new head, and your good to go. Something like this is pretty much as good as it gets, even if i've seen a lot larger versions. Home made models include a shaft long enough to deal with / resist the heat, and hopper T-tubes & end-caps cut in half to act as the mold. Hold it together with hose clamps.It would seam to me like the darn thing would be likely to get stuck, but they swear it works, and if it does get stuck, it's cheap enough to make a new mold. I'm pretty sure it wont leave marks on our tooling, but the guys i know that still use these do custom car body work, and hand beat metal in to shape with them, so i don't really know. I LOVE the hammer we got at the workshop, (Not that i can actually wield it) when ever i need something to deliver a good solid hit. Sadly, they are much to large for the pyrowork. They don't see much use these days, but when you head a good solid thunk as someone have bee trying to get a stuck disc-brake lose on one of the trucks, or the trailers, you know there is a fresh dent in it. And i don't think i ever heard it take more then one hit. It's at least 35 kilos of lead on the far end of a one and a half-meter stick. God knows what that thing was created for, or how the men that wielded it really looked, but it's not a thing of our times. Supposedly the cast for the head still kicks around somewhere out there to, but honestly, it hasn't taken much damage over the years.B!
nater Posted September 7, 2014 Posted September 7, 2014 This is my choice: http://www.hammersource.com/Soft_Face_Hammers/1_1/2_Rawhide_Split_Head_Hammer_2_lbs._wood_handle/ I actually have the next size larger, but a few other people thought it was too heavy more than a rocket or two in an afternoon.
schroedinger Posted September 7, 2014 Posted September 7, 2014 Why not use a good rubber mallet, the type made out of black hard rubber. With a little experience you even don't got problems with bouncing as you learn to controll it and how much force is needed.
Bobosan Posted September 7, 2014 Posted September 7, 2014 Too much bounce in a hard rubber mallet. It should be a "dead blow", no bounce at all.
Arthur Posted September 8, 2014 Posted September 8, 2014 I'd just keep several lead mallet faces in stock and then re melt them all, but once it gets to this I'd be seriously considering buying a press. Presses to 30 tons are available retail, presses suit comps with particulate matter.
dagabu Posted September 8, 2014 Posted September 8, 2014 I have an idea about a mallet to use for ramming gerbes, rockets, etc. The usual recommendation for this is a rawhide mallet. I’ve been pricing them, finding that they are they are, like many tools, very expensive. Being of a frugal (some say cheap) nature, I’ve researched other less pricey hammers/mallets, but according to most other pyros, the other kinds are not good for many reasons.I have one like this I got from Amazon: Tekton Soft Face Mallet reduced.jpg Tekton Mallet Faces Taken Off.jpg http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3179-35mm-Double-Face-Mallet/dp/B000NPR2U8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1409933342&sr=1-1&keywords=tekton+3179+35mm+double-face+soft+mallet Not expensive, either, under $10. The problem is that it is also too soft, too bouncy, too light, etc. The good part is that the faces screw off for replacement, different kinds of faces, etc. So, here’s my idea. I cast a replacement face out of lead. Lead mallet head.jpg No bounce, not too hard, non-sparking, heavy enough for the tough stuff. The weight of the head alone is almost 1#. The cost? $1 & change for the hardware. Mallet w Lead Head.jpg The mallet assembly’s weight is almost 2-1/2#. Before I start swinging, I would appreciate any input. Very nice hammer face! Good job on your craftsmanship!
Bobosan Posted September 10, 2014 Posted September 10, 2014 Eagle, looking at your lead hammer face again and wondering if it feels unbalanced as you wield it vertically. With the lighter hard plastic on the other end, I would think it to be a bit awkward to use. Another lead face like the first one should balance it right out and share the load of ramming.
Eagle66 Posted September 10, 2014 Author Posted September 10, 2014 Eagle, looking at your lead hammer face again and wondering if it feels unbalanced as you wield it vertically. With the lighter hard plastic on the other end, I would think it to be a bit awkward to use. Another lead face like the first one should balance it right out and share the load of ramming. Right you are. It wants to twist in my hand when I do practice taps on a steel plate. It would be hard to hit a tool squarely every time. I'll be making another just for balance.
VaterAraignee Posted September 11, 2014 Posted September 11, 2014 Mallet w Lead Head.jpg The mallet assemblys weight is almost 2-1/2#. Good job.Looks a lot like the heads we cast at work, excep we put a brass cap on one end so we have the option for a harder striker surface.
vertipup Posted October 1, 2014 Posted October 1, 2014 Right you are. It wants to twist in my hand when I do practice taps on a steel plate. It would be hard to hit a tool squarely every time. I'll be making another just for balance. If you can find a bit of LINOTYPE metal (lead atimony alloy )it would solve deformation problems
dagabu Posted October 1, 2014 Posted October 1, 2014 If you can find a bit of LINOTYPE metal (lead atimony alloy )it would solve deformation problems Often linotype fractures and chips when struck, it is fragile in comparison to lead. A mix (alloy) of the two may prove to be more useful.
MrB Posted October 1, 2014 Posted October 1, 2014 I'd actually use pure lead for a mallet. The whole idea is that the mallet should deform, not the struck object. Just cast a new mallet / head when it's "worn out", and save the harder stuff for making milling media.B!
LiamPyro Posted October 9, 2014 Posted October 9, 2014 I feel considerably noob-ish asking this, but what's wrong with a steel hammer? They have minimal bounce, don't deform, are heavy, and seem to be good all around. Is it that you guys use metal drifts and want to avoid scratching or denting them? I use wood drifts and steel has always worked just fine for me.
LiamPyro Posted October 9, 2014 Posted October 9, 2014 Just read the post above my previous one and pretty much answered my own question.
Bobosan Posted October 9, 2014 Posted October 9, 2014 Just read the post above my previous one and pretty much answered my own question. Also worth noting is steel is a sparking metal and you wouldn't want that possibility in your BP work area even though you use wood or aluminum rammers.
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