dagabu Posted September 8, 2014 Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) Then just use an intact match head and a striker strip to ignite the Visco. Use a cotton string and tie (clove hitch) two intact paper matches to either side of a section of visco, Take the outside cover from the book and fold it so that the striker strip is on the inside, wrap that around the match/visco and with a piece of tape, close it around them, use cotton string a a couple running clove hitches to bind it tightly and leave a good foot hanging out for a pull string. When you hold (or otherwise anchor the visco end without the match and pull the pull string, the striker will grind against the match heads, lighting them with a short burst of very hot flame lighting the visco. They are a lot of fun to use in lighting rockets somewhat remotely. Kind of crude method but you get the idea... http://www.pyrouniverse.com/show/fusing/friction.htm Edited September 8, 2014 by dagabu
Scttgrffths21 Posted September 8, 2014 Author Posted September 8, 2014 Dagabu, that's what I originally did, but the port for the striking surface to pass through on my cap is too big, and allows too much oxygen. I end up with random flamethrowers or ones that sputter flame. I want to restrict that by using a smaller port (hence the string solution).
dagabu Posted September 8, 2014 Posted September 8, 2014 Use the visco to determine the port size, it can be outside of your container. There are many crackers that use 1mm visco, use a length of that if you just need a pin hole.
Scttgrffths21 Posted September 8, 2014 Author Posted September 8, 2014 Unfortunately, no, it cannot be outside of the container if its intended to be "Cold burning". The visco will be used to determine the port size of the clay lid within the canister. What I might try doing is making seperate compartments within the container, and that might provide me with the space for both concepts. The top compartment would be the pull ring match/fuse combo. The fuse would burn down into a clay lid with the diameter matching the fuse (and thus restricting air flow) before reaching the main mixutre. Let me see if I can diagram what Im thinking really quick...
dagabu Posted September 8, 2014 Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) Yes, you can do that and you can lay the pull string to the side if you wish to save space. This has been done a million times, paint-ball sites usually have drawings where members have made lots of them. I usually saw monster smoke canisters with the pull igniters taped to the side. Edited September 8, 2014 by dagabu
BurritoBandito Posted September 8, 2014 Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) You could always allow a bit of extra space inside the casing, so that the striker has enough room to light the matches without needing to be pulled through the "port". I think an extra inch of empty space is all you'd need. As far as the accelerant for the cap/pin method I'd just use a tiny bit of BP slurry (NC lacquer mixed with BP to form a paste) with a light coating of meal dust to aid in ignition. Another idea is just to do what you've been doing, but add the extra 4 grams paraffin which you've left out. That may make all the difference in controlling the flare ups. Edit: I got distracted mid message, and you two have both since replied. Edited September 8, 2014 by BurritoBandito
Scttgrffths21 Posted September 8, 2014 Author Posted September 8, 2014 Well... color me confused. Er, more confused. Yes, its common to see pull strings on the side of paintball smoke grenades. This is what I'm aiming for. However, I'm not trying to play with compounds that are going to blow up my house in my pursuit of creating a spark. No, you cannot have visco fuse on the outsideside of a commercial paintball smoke grenade. This is where I'm currently at. Here (attached) is a design from the conversations Ive had so far. I believe this would work, but still seems inferior to a pull string.
Scttgrffths21 Posted September 8, 2014 Author Posted September 8, 2014 Thanks gents... gives me something to look forward to when I get home tonight. Burrito, I originally started with 40g parrafin, but when I'd mix I kept getting left over with wax that wasn't binding to anything, and I'd have to strain it out before getting to the actual mixture. I then reduced each batch by a gram until I got to a point where the absorbtion rate of wax to smoke mix (kno3+sugar) was even.
BurritoBandito Posted September 8, 2014 Posted September 8, 2014 Was the wax cooling off before you could get it all mixed in? You could also try a little baking soda to retard the flame.
LiamPyro Posted September 8, 2014 Posted September 8, 2014 You really don't want crushed match heads in any kind of confinement, like smokeless powder, they will deflagrate and over-pressure your device. A glustaz type mix is much better for this kind of ignition. Personally, I have only used meal-D black powder and not match heads. You're right about them being too violent. The design of the device is that all the forces caused by the burning fountain mix and other compositions simply burst right through the top cap and there is no risk of explosion. I would imagine that glusatz would work great, although I have no barium nitrate so I can't try it.
LiamPyro Posted September 8, 2014 Posted September 8, 2014 Here's a cross-section diagram of what the igniter looks like when attached to the smoke canister: Here's an image showing what happens when the string is jerked:
smokeytech Posted September 9, 2014 Posted September 9, 2014 the Danny Creagan page isnt loading for me eihter....any other links? http://www.mypixshare.net/files/img/user_uploads/displayimage.php?id=t2ltmabi6i9s1130556.gif
Mumbles Posted September 9, 2014 Posted September 9, 2014 Works fine for me. Any idea what sort of problem you're having with it not loading? It will likely give you some sort of error message.
Arthur Posted September 9, 2014 Posted September 9, 2014 It's important to note that party popper snaps are made in bulk wet, they are inserted wet and the streamers and discs put in while the snap is wet. It's not safe to handle bulk snaps dry. Perhaps a read of Ellern would show you some methods and chemistries that can be safely used.
OblivionFall Posted September 10, 2014 Posted September 10, 2014 Check out this video. A much safer alternative to pull-cord ignition. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgc_Y_wK66Q
BurritoBandito Posted September 10, 2014 Posted September 10, 2014 That's not going to for the OPs needs. He doesn't want an open flame.Check out this video. A much safer alternative to pull-cord ignition...
FlaMtnBkr Posted September 11, 2014 Posted September 11, 2014 I wonder if his mom smacked him on the head with that spoon after he ruined it? And do scrambled eggs taste better with nitrate and wax?
LiamPyro Posted October 28, 2014 Posted October 28, 2014 I have come up with a much better design for pull ring igniters that I am in the process of testing. They can be made to light visco fuse or a spolette-type time delay, and not including the pull ring and fuse/delay, are less than an inch tall and around 3/8" in diameter.Reply if you're interested!
MrB Posted October 28, 2014 Posted October 28, 2014 No. Nobody wants to know about this... Dude, wtf? Share already :- pB!
LiamPyro Posted October 28, 2014 Posted October 28, 2014 (edited) Haha. Alright, here's a description of the design: (keep in mind, I am still testing this) The "housing" of the device is a 5/16 inch I.D. paper tube that is cut to approximately half an inch in length. Inside this is the actual ignitor, which is surrounded by a pinch of granulated charcoal star mix (I used Chrysanthemum 6). Any composition that burns fairly slowly yet ignites readily should work. In one end of the "housing" tube is either the end of a time delay (a smaller tube rammed with charcoal star mix and an increment of black powder on top to aid ignition) or has a primed visco fuse in it (I will describe this later in the post). The actual igniter is very similar to some military pull-ignition designs. It is made of a 1/4 paper end plug (I make my own) that has a hole poked in the bottom with a tack. This is is packed with about three strike-anywhere match tips (the white part) that have been wet with water/alcohol and carefully crushed into a powder, then scooped into the plug and compacted with a small dowel. While the mixture is still wet, a tack is used to poke a hole through it that lines up with the hole in the plug. This is set aside to dry. Next, about an inch of the end of a thin copper wire is roughened/scored with a small triangular file or coarse sandpaper, and then coiled about three turns around a small dowel. This coil must be able to fit into the end plug. The straight end of the copper wire is threaded through the hole in the end plug/match heads so that the coil is in the open end of the plug. A few granules of star mix are placed in the coil in the end of the plug. The next step is to poke a hole in the side of the "housing" tube about 3/16" from the open end with a tack. The straight end of the copper wire is then threaded from the top down inside of the tube and out through the hole and gently pulled so that the the igniter assembly (plug + match tips + coil) is drawn into the end of the tube. It should end up sideways inside the end of the tube. The top is then sealed with a piece of thin kraft paper, and the copper wire that protrudes from the side of the tube is twisted around a metal ring. If desired, the wire can also be folded against the side of the tube and then bent out again a little ways down and the section of wire that touches the tube can be secured with a piece of tape or kraft paper as a "safety" (this is hard to describe but very simple). Now back to the fuse ignition assembly that I mentioned earlier (this is used if the igniter is supposed to light a length of visco) It consists of a homemade 5/16" paper end plug that is longer than normal, which has a hole poked in the bottom and a length of visco fuse inserted so that a little bit extends inside the plug cavity and the rest pokes out the bottom. A black powder/NC lacquer slurry is used to fill the open end, and while still wet is coated with granulated black powder. This is inserted into the "housing" tube (prior to installing the wire/igniter assembly) so that the fuse and a little bit of the bottom of the tube protrude from the end of the tube. Edited October 29, 2014 by LiamPyro 1
LiamPyro Posted October 29, 2014 Posted October 29, 2014 BTW if you don't get this, just ask. I will probably post a diagram of this soon as well, which should help a lot. Here's a picture of an igniter fitted with a fuse: I actually haven't tested the igniter with a fuse yet, so there's no gaurantee this thing will work.
rogeryermaw Posted November 1, 2014 Posted November 1, 2014 this looks close to what you may be looking for. 1
MrB Posted November 1, 2014 Posted November 1, 2014 Yeah, this wont do. (Strike anywhere) matches simply look to... amateurish.I would however worry with the paper casing. It might take fire. Waterglass treating the inside?B!
LiamPyro Posted November 2, 2014 Posted November 2, 2014 Yeah, this wont do. (Strike anywhere) matches simply look to... amateurish.I would however worry with the paper casing. It might take fire. Waterglass treating the inside?B!Which post are you reffering to? I'm assuming mine...
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