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Just tested a fountain which I named Dual toned fountain to differentiate from the other fountains. I am satisfied with the effect of this. Case lenght-12cm Case id-3cm Nozzle length-10mm Nozzle id-9mm Microstar was 50% to the base mixture. Here is the video. Fountain.mp4 Fountain.mp4

Not ferrous sulphide, which is FeS? With all the stuff that MadBoy has shared on this forum, can somebody tell me what value it has been to any of us? He didn't even secure the mortar tube! Hope nobody copies that move! MadBoy should either post the entire formula and description of his star-making process in English, or quit posting mysterious info that does nothing but confuse people. We are here to share with each other and help each other. MadBoy, why are you here? Do you think you are being helpful? Sorry folks, but this guy is getting on my last nerve.

Just a trick I wanted to pass on. If you need something longer lasting look into colored flare, lance, or bengal fire compositions. They may not be perfect "out of the box" in terms of composition, but it will give you some insight into the difference in formulation, and can provide a guide on the right way to approach compositions you're trying to modify to slow down. Off hand, I believe they tend to be pretty heavy on the colorant (whether it's the oxidizer/nitrate/chlorate or additive/carbonate). This tends to make fairly saturated colors as well, as the colorant is heavier than normal.

Happy New Year to you all !!

After long time made few shells of 3.5 and 4 inches with flash burst. VID-20241214-WA0024.mp4 Another angle VID-20241213-WA0027.mp4 3.5 inch - crackling microstar commet Size of commet is 22mm - pressed and cut Used rice husks aa bursting charge to reduce the throw of the stars VID-20241214-WA0022.mp4 3.5 inch - Blesser white strobe VID-20241214-WA0020.mp4 4 inch Red & Green stars VID-20241208-WA0008.mp4 3.5 inch Red, Green & crackling star VID-20241214-WA0019.mp4 4 inch - Pumped fast burning red commet with Rice husk burst VID-20241126-WA0005.mp4 Flash burst - 3.5 inch C6 VID-20241214-WA0023.mp4 3.5 inch rolled N1 to red star. Need improvement on the star timings. Flash burst, so not expecting much symmetry

When you withhold a device from a friend when he asks why the fuse is soooo long...

Though it is not a fireworks cake it is a cake 🎂 🎂 .!! Delicious doll cake made by me.

Celebrated Diwali this year with my fireworks and would like to share some with you.

I have been making this for a long time but a few years ago I searched a lot through out the web to get more information regarding this firework and was totally disappointed. Dan requested me to start a thread so I have decided to share whatever I know about this firework. There are various types of ground spinners but this type consisting of a spiral paper tube casing, filled with composition and the casing is also consumed when it burns. I examined several of this type from the market and guess that the composition is a modified flash like powder with Al filings. So some trial and error session and wasting lot of chemicals, I got a composition which works great for me. The composition is as follows- Barium nitrate –25% (-120) Potassium nitrate-12% (-120) Sulfur-7% MgAl-12% (-200) Al-powder-32% (< 45 micron flake, coated, mepco 999) Al-filings-12% (30-80 mesh turnings from Al utensil factories) Extreme care must be taken with this composition and all the safety precautions must be followed like flash. Casing –It’s a vital part of this firework and if thin, burnt off all the composition at a time. Thicker tube blocks the flame and the hot gases as well and that may explode. A good quality virgin kraft paper should be used or it will tear off during spiraling. I use 40 -50lb virgin kraft of 14”long and 5” width with the grain parallel to the length and dry roll my tube with a 6mm od Al dowel. I apply wheat paste about 1”at the end. Filling-I usually use funnel and wire to fill the tube and always check for no air gaps and even filling with my finger tips. I leave off filling about 1”to one end of the tube which is glued and flattened to make it easy for spiraling. . I also prime the tip with a green mix +5% MgAl in nc slurry. Spiraling- I tap the tube keeping it on a hard surface with a wooden mallet to flatten and bending it against the surface then make it spiral with patience around a1.5”od pipe or something like that. I put sufficient glue and either use a jig or tie with a rubber band that it cannot stretch out. Finishing- After drying I open the rubber band and glued two card board discs, one of which has a circular bulging part at the middle for easy movement. If you have any thought and idea please do share. Here is a video of my spinners which I made last year. http://youtu.be/pBbQZCoRTmo

You don't need to make a useless post for every video you create.

You can also visit this URL, thanks to you @mx5kevin I have hosted the static files on railway. https://pyrodata-production.up.railway.app/pyrodata/index.html I am creating a website dedicated to pyro, but ... knowing myself it will take some time before its finished

No, YOU tell us what those abbreviations mean, or don't use them. Period. Consider this a "Warning" without a penalty, this time.

I shortened the spindle to 2.5 and tapered it about .5mm using only sand paper. when I'm able to get my hands on drill and angle grinder I'll comeback to my lonh spindle tooling. Still happy on my short spindle tool.

I think you've got me confused with someone else...

I just pick up my rubber jar every so often and whack it with a stick 😆

Gutted for the seeds for roasting, and dispersing for the deer in my back yard.

It depends on how you process, weight of shell, granules size of lift, cylindrical or ball shell and clearance between shell and mortar tube, purity of ingredients used and milling time. First we dry KNO3 for 4 to 5 hours in sunshine and immediately grind it using coffee grinder to fine powder that should pass atleast 100 mesh, also Sulphur is passed through 100 mesh screen , we use commercial Extra fine charcoal for lift. Mix all ingredients 2 times with 40 mesh screen and 3 times with 80 or 100 mesh screen. Then mixture is damped with clean water with little use of water just to avoid floating it's fluffy airy nature and prevent floating during milling operation. It is screened with window screen to spread water equally into mixture in order to damped it. Then it is poured into wooden base housing as shown in image above and rammed for 1 to 2 hours till powder burns fast enough tough it still has minimum moisture we do burn test between milling process. Then powder is again screened to break lumps and allowed to dry in sunshine. Next binder is added 2 to 3 percent using 60 mesh screen and it is granulated and dried. Size of granules depends on size of shell. Note:- Operateor who is ramming with iron rod should ram in center part of wooden base only and second operator pushes mixture continuously towards the center using long handle spatula to keep his hands safe and away from rammer. This is the method we have been using since many years and not to be recommended professionally it is revealed only for curiosity.

The colour might be faded due to other ingredients which you have used in composition? Like due to excess use of 999/666 aluminium fuel and lower chlorine donor percentage? It's very hard to tell without knowing composition details. Can you mention other ingredients used in this composition? I prefer to dry strontium nitrate first before making any strontium base composition or I postpone my work if weather is an issue. Lab grade strontium prices are double or too much. You might give a try again when weather is good but I am sure colour faded due to excess fuel like aluminium.

i’ve read with great interest the podts some of you serious pyrotechnicians have done on crossette inserts, and admired your video posts to the extent that i simply HAD to try it. i had played with the inserts and lit a few on the ground until i got one that seemed to work, si i assembled and fired a SMALL test shell this weekend. it was a 1.5” can shell with 6 tiger tail crossettes in it. it was burst with 4-1 mill dust coated rice hulls. the crossette inserts were made with my typical pyrotechnic blasphemy. i made them in my 1/2” star plate, pressed the slightly moistened tiger tail composition by hand with a 1/2” dowel until the hole was full, then cut the cruciform shape with a flat bladed screwdriver pressed about 3/8” deep, 1 indentation at 90 degrees to the other. a couple stuck but most were ok. i then carefully pressed them out of the plate with the 1/2” dowel and dried them in my dry box. when dry, i used a VERY slow drill press to cut a passfire hole to 1/8 inch from the flat end. into that i put a piece of blackmatch, added about 1 grain of 70/30 flash, hot glued a cardboard disk over the cruciform, and wrapped top 3/4 of the insert with two wraps of masking tape, with the excess tape folded over the cardboard disk. finally i touched the bottom to a damp paper towel and pressed it in black powder, around 4fg. typing the description takes longer than making the inserts this way. i know they need a lot af work yet, but for such small (1/2”) crossettes, i was happy to get something recognizable. thanks for letting me ramble on. IMG_1178.mov

Also an observation from punching filled inserts.... I did notice that because the tubes were filled, the punch created a small, completely enclosed, tube like opening of paper which extends past the inside edge of the tube and into the granulated flash. The tube was formed from the paper it pushed out of the way to make the hole, but not torn as much because the fill acts as a support of sorts (like using sand as a casting mold around a object you want to cast, except in this case it's paper around a punch). So I tried piercing an empty tube from the same batch of homemade tubes, it did push paper into the tube, but it did NOT make a fully enclosed tube like the filled inserts. I believe Mumbles speculated on this as being a potential factor that could affect timing, and may be a reason at least some of the Maltese shops still pierce them filled. I think I agree in concept based on what I observed, in my mind its like a mini spolette once filled with B.P. slurry, where the length of the formed mini tube extends the time it takes to get to the comp inside the insert. I also realize that I may not have the consistency in my process *yet* to capitalize on this factor and manipulate the timings on the inserts. Sorry for the long posts, I wanted to capture and share what I learn along the way (for better or worse, success or failure), in hopes it will help someone else. At worst, I didn't want to put everything into a document that people would have to download and/or may eventually get lost.

Just an update to track my progress.... I dug out my old 1t arbor press, bolted it up to some scrap wood and drug it out to the yard. The ram was not pre-drilledlike I thought (similar to my 3t arbor press), so I just hose clamped the brass punch to the front face of the ram (see 1st photo below) I used scrap wood to make a V block to act as a centering jig and hold my inserts in-place while they were punched. I put a wood "bridge" over the V block to wipe the inserts off the punch when the ram is lifted. I used scrap wood blocks as a depth guage by placing them under the ram to restrict its travel and prevent the punch from piercing both sides of the tube. The photo is a bit fuzzy, but here's a look at my quick set-up (minus the plywood shield I scrapped together which stood betwen me and the press, only exposing my gloved hand to the insert if the worst happened). (The long handle extension is also obscured, but it was just electrical conduit pipe slipped over the existing handle.) For safety, I set up a good distance from my house (my shed is pretty far from the house anyways, about 25 - 30 feet behind where the canopy is.) I ended up getting all my inserts punched with this setup, by just changing the depth blocks for the different sized inserts. In full disclosure - I will say that I did not enjoy the suspense of waiting for an insert to be set off by the friction from the punch, since I granulated the comp. I had a lot of safety in place and knew the risk of being seriously hurt were minimal - yet the suspense was not any less. Thankfully, it did not happen. ( I only show the larger inserts here, I went back and finished the smaller inserts after taking this photo) I made up some small 5/16" inserts to test the Gum Arabic (GA) slurry timing out of a star gun. My plan is to determine if 5% incremental increase of GA is enough to provide time / separation between rings of inserts. They were made up with 10%, 15%, and 25% GA slurry, which I hope will provide the rhythm you hear in Maltese beraq videos.

4" Ball shell Stars are rolled, size of the stars are 10mm, strobe stars are 4mm, C8 6mm. No prime in between the two layers. No prime needed as C8 composition is already so easy to light. C8 Potassium nitrate ................ 49 Sulfur ................ 6 Charcoal ................ 40 SGRS ................ 5 White strobe (JOPETES Strobe formula) Barium nitrate ................ 52 Potassium nitrate ................ 4 Sulfur ................ 26 Magnalium 63 micron, 250-mesh ................ 14 (original calls for 230 mesh, I didnt have. I bet using 230 will be better. I will use 100 mesh next time to see if that makes it even more strobing) SGRS ................ 4

Following up... I've enabled "Automatic Moderation" to help combat the spam. Please continue to make reports for Spam. Once two members have reported a topic, the contents will be hidden. (We'll still have to remove it, but it won't be visible, so the spammer's efforts are wasted.) Thank you!

Just checking, but the BP itself burns fairly cleanly, right? That's the first thing to check. My initial thoughts also go to the NC lacquer. If the solution is too thin, I could see it soaking into the core more than you expect. A thicker solution may prevent as much migration. If the NC is lower nitration, I could see it not burning as cleanly and maybe interfering or consuming some of the fuel or oxidizer in the BP making residue like that. This is kind of a tough problem. I know it's not as robust, but if your process supports it, have you tried burning a portion of uncoated fuse? It might help narrow it down to see if it's the string/construction that's the issue or the coating.

Winokur's Silver C as a gerb needs milled black powder to give the necessary power. It's a really great effect BP 0.68 Barium Carbonate 0.10 Antimony Trisulphide 0.14 Al (250 mesh) 0.08 2x15g in 0.5inch diameter tubes, no choke: Winokur Silver C.mp4

I think it looks great, to get what you talk about you probably need to switch to something perchlorate based? Or whatever is used in chinese visco.

Here’s my attempt at a cake insert, pardon the terrible out-of-focus video: IMG_0263.mov I used a 3/4” ID x 2-1/8” tube and pressed clay plug with time delay fuse imbedded (I used willow effect fuse so that it also created a tail). Buell red and C8 +15% FeTi stars, granulated BP + 7/3 flash break. This was mostly a test to see if the stars would light, which it appears most (if not all) did.

white strobe stars https://youtube.com/shorts/9SIYerJFgvA?si=wlEzSSdwKDbNfsV9

I hope you aren't leaving my friend. I've enjoyed reading a lot of your posts, seen some beautiful work from you, and though we may not all agree with each other ALL the time, you've still provided valued input over the years! Besides, lots of unique perspectives are one of the main reasons I like this forum more than some of the paid sites (I like them too, they just tend to be more controlled on what is said, and differing views may not always be well received.....but I digress). Anyways, I hope you will reconsider and stick around (even if you do "log off" to take a minute).... fingers crossed! Chuck

I converted a junked Allen-Bradley control panel and some 800E switches into an electrical ignition system with extremely little effort. The switches are rated for .55 amps at 125VDC so I shouldn't have to worry about the meager yield of 3 AA batteries in series. Changed out a few contact blocks, and rerouted some of the circuitry and it is ready to go. Select which circuit(s) you want to fire with the selector switches, arm the system by pulling up on the orange mushroom-head button, and fire by depressing the red mushroom-head button. There is something cathartic about hitting a big red button for launch.😁 The downsides are it is relatively heavy, and you need a lot of wire for firing just 13 circuits. At least the wire is reusable.

Too many people harp on safety to a point a lot of people just ignore them. People are going to do what they are going to do whether given obvious safety warnings or not. Instead of saying, hey don't do this, why not give actual advice on how to be safe when using it like proper mixing methods and storage. It's like somebody asking a simple question in the beginner section and everybody just telling you to work on your black powder. Yeah, obvious, it's the beginner section.

Some testing done by Ned Gorski on FW indicates the absolutely BEST powder is made with alcohol alone and no binder. The remaining resin in the charcoal acts as a binder. But this is highly dependent on what charcoal you use - some have little to no resin. The charcoal I use made of newspaper has no resin at all and bound with alcohol alone the grains crumble with the smallest amount of pressure, so I use 1% dextrin and water. Using alcohol as a binder does improve the quality of the powder, all other factors being the same, but it is so much more expensive than water. As I understand it, any given charcoal has some maximum level of power that can be extracted from it. If 12h of milling and dextrin water binding will make this "perfect powder" then maybe 8h of milling and redgum alcohol will do the same, or 6h of milling and alcohol alone etc etc. There is a ceiling of what can be achieved, but there is multiple paths to get there. The goal is not really to achieve the most powerful powder on earth, just good enough. In the end, a powder with no binder will perform the best of all three options, but only marginally, if all other factors are controlled correctly. --- To the second point, the hardness of the grains is of course why binder is added. In industrial applications where the shells will be shipped across the ocean and handled roughly for months, more binder is needed to ensure the grains do not break. I am not sure why 5% binder is often recommended, I think this is too much even for industrial applications. In our shells, 1-2% is enough. The impact on speed is negligible. --- SGRS was used in Japan because that is what they had access too. Dextrin was used more in the west. In the modern day, both are available, but dextrin is easier to work with so it's often preferred, except where SGRS is specifically called for, like in a star comp where the fuel value will be tuned for SGRS. --- One other point is that when making BP, if water is used, the powder must be dried as quickly as possible to prevent the recrystallisation of large KNO3 grains which slows the powder considerably. In cold damp weather, this is sometimes not possible, and BP cannot be made on these days. When using alcohol, no KNO3 dissolves and drying rate is not as important, also alcohol is more volatile, so drying in bad weather becomes possible.

So, normally id be pretty proud of myself after a successful shell. But after 30 minutes of pro made stuff, complete with whistles, and crackles, dragon eggs, and multi breaks filling up the sky. I felt kinda like a dweeb with my lame single break color ring. Not sure why mine got picked to be the finale ... Would of been way more impressive before all that Oh well, my blue came out looking better than anyone else's. And mine went waaaay higher than anything else there. This was my first ever audience so I'm really just happy it didn't flowerpot rite in front of my boss. VID_20240704_225302803~2.mp4

Good evening all..!! After testing various small and medium size shells here is first attempt made on 12 inch shell in shell. Unfortunately we didnt shoot or capture photos of shell construction( have no good camera). Test fired footage is also of poor quality because it is shooted with mobile phone. Shell height should be more but next time will add a bit more lift. Shell casing is fully made of cylindrical shape plastic casing ( including end side too to fix spolette) and other side is fixed with circular plastic disk too. Inside of shell 2 inch round willow plus colour star mini shells are arranged and these small inserts are timed using spolette having 2 to 3 second delay. Between cannule and shell insert few colour stars are mixed with burst charge and main burst is placed in middle (cannule) Shell is then finished and wrapped with two layers of cotton cloth using white glue then it is spiked using jute and again one layer of cotton cloth is pasted using white glue thinned with water. Finally it is pasted with kraft paper and glue. https://youtube.com/shorts/yeUgddKmwPY?si=xz2uW1eaFEqpIKM5

There is high chance that most of formulas from patented literature just dont work. You may try out this I just tested it over ground not in shell mine or fountain....I just made a stars and ignited over ground....it produces molten slag and it is throwed against high wind it flashes with yellow strobe type effect. The formula is also collected from google patent document. KNO3 50 Sulphur 15 Sodium bicarbonate 15 Magnelium 10 Charcoal 10 Sieved with 40 mesh screen and mixed well. Then using NC lacquar stars are formed.

Just leave the site and site will get purified. Everytime you have to be warned not to post new topics and try to reply on existing threads here.

One of the classic methods was to simply put the first mixture in the star roller and tumble it to mix it. Then lightly spritz water from a sprayer so that droplets start to clump really tiny star centres from the mix itself, then keep tumbling with a fine mist spray until these cores start to grow. Lots of the old firework makers used to have lots of different spray bottles that they had selected for their spray or mist qualities. If you spray really tiny droplets then you form star cores, if you spray a ultra fine mist you build comp onto a core. However you work screen out the stars often so that none grow too big and the powder is all used. All possible variables change the product, in particular wind and humidity on the day.

I'm all for everyone to dig deeper into the existing literature to establish a better understanding of the underlying phenomena. However, the books you recommend are in my opinion too orientated in general chemistry to create interest to most fireworkers. Maybe you were just focusing on chemistry? I'm thinking people are here for energetics and fireworks. I would rather recommend starting with the following books to get more insight in our side of chemistry: Pyrotechnic Chemistry (from Journal of Pyrotechnics Inc., the pdf is free on their site!) Chemistry of Pyrotechnics (John A. Conkling) Military and Civilian Pyrotechnics (Herbert Ellern) Chemistry of Powder and Explosives (Tenney L. Davis)

Everybody that's involved with whistle rockets calls it KHP. It's potassium hydrogen phthalate. Florida Pyro is a very informative and helpful rocket guy. I've recently found that anybody that wants to explore whistle rockets to any degree of creativity would do well to look to YouTube, where the experimental rocket guys have their own channels and freely share their experiences without the hindrance of having to 'fit in' to accepted narratives of how things work. Of course, the 'buyer' must beware of bad info. There's a lot of KHP info out there, but the pyro 'community' is quite mum about it due to lack of interest in coloring outside the pyro lines. In my brief experience with it, I found that it needed a small amount of powdered charcoal or perlite in the mix to keep it from blowing itself out. Maybe the red gum in your formula performs a similar function. The Chinese use a lot of it in non-cored items like girandolas, and their mix is pure white, so no copper or iron catalysts. The guy that attempted to popularize KHP whistle in America is Rembert Amons, IIRC. Pretty sure his F/O ratio was 28/68. Interest in it was very fleeting. In my opinion, it was because nobody really wanted to do the work to understand it and tame it. NeighborJ on this forum did some experiments with it. I believe his YouTube channel is called Rocket Tests.

Telling people not to use chlorate because it is dangerous is equivalent to a lack of information, no one explains how and why but everyone says no.This is a dangerous hobby, 100 grams of gunpowder is enough to have an irreversible burn to the lungs and die in a few days or have third degree burns. There is no time to run away like in the movies so since you always have to be careful, in a humid environment and with acidic sulfur it is better to avoid chlorate which produces chloric acid which could cause Unwanted ignitions, no one suggests having short nails to avoid scratching the fabric of the sieves, no one says to use a sieve for each family of mixtures and so on....

Kno3 1000g Charchol 800g Sulfar 100g Sodium oxalate 25g Dextrin 80g 1st step kno3+sulfar+oxalate all mix 3time, After then charcoal add also dextrin Make 4mm stars and enjoy gold effect

How about under your bed!

If this is for a school project, perhaps the school can find potassium nitrate from a school laboratory supplier and let you have the required quantity.

When you mentioned that the fertilizer was brown instead of white, I was very suspect of that as well. I'm not sure if the country you live in rates fertilizer by the NPK system. IT is a series of three numbers; the first being for N or nitrogen, the second being for the P or phosphorus and the last one is potassium for the K. You may notice these letters are all taken straight from the periodic table of elements. A fertilizer with a lot of potassium nitrate will have a very high first number and a low last number. The middle number should be as close to zero as possible. Something like 60-5-20 (don't look for exactly these numbers but this was just to give you an idea) would probably be high in potassium nitrate. Unfortunately, some fertilizers utilize urea or even ammonium nitrate instead on potassium nitrate for nitrogen, so you will have to actually look at the ingredients listing. If there is no listed ingredients see if you can't obtain a MSDS (material safety data sheet). These usually contain a chemical breakdown list. Another possibility is if there is tree stump remover available in your country. Garden supply or hardware stores usually carry this and if you get the right brand it is almost all pure potassium nitrate. I have used this in the past and it was pure enough to work quite well.

Yes

We appreciate both admins for their efforts for keeping this forum still going....most of other staff member seems inactive since many days and some retired. For future APC staff is going to add other staff members? We need this forum to go on for many years.

Huge thanks to mumbles and the sidewinder for their continued efforts to keep APC running. This new format is pretty bad but at least the site is still here. Not good that pyrogear is having trouble, there are some very detailed insights there. - I was able to access the forum but it looks like they are having issues with site security.

No, greenish yellow at best. You need a chlorine donor, or an additive that helps the chlorate to release chlorine, but the charcoal will destroy the green emission anyway. Charcoal can only be added in small amounts in green and blue flames, unless it is course and only contributes to a tail.

Colored Nitrate Stars Name of composition: Sr(NO3)2 Red Star/Ba(NO3)2 Green Star/Ba(NO3)2 - Sr(NO3)2 Yellow Star/Ba(NO3)2 - Sr(NO3)2 Orange Star/NaNO3 Yellow Star/Sr(NO3)2 - NaNO3 Orange Star/Sr(NO3)2 - CuO Magenta Star Composition Type: Color star Creator: Pyroblume Color/Effect: Red/Green/Optical Yellow/Optical Orange/Yellow/Orange/Magenta The Composition: (by weight) Sr(NO3)2 Red Star Strontium nitrate....................58% Magnalium (45μm).................17% Parlon......................................15% Red gum...................................7% Dextrin…………………………….......3% Ba(NO3)2 Green Star Barium nitrate.......................58% Magnalium (45μm)...............17% Parlon....................................15% Red gum.................................7% Dextrin……………………………......3% Ba(NO3)2 - Sr(NO3)2 Yellow Star Barium nitrate……………….....40% Strontium nitrate.................18% Magnalium (45μm)..............17% Parlon...................................15% Red gum.................................7% Dextrin……………………………......3% Ba(NO3)2 - Sr(NO3)2 Orange Star Barium nitrate…………………..26% Strontium nitrate................32% Magnalium (45μm)..............17% Parlon...................................15% Red gum................................7% Dextrin…………………………….....3% NaNO3 Yellow Star Sodium nitrate................... 58% Magnalium (45μm)..............17% Parlon...................................15% Red gum................................7% Dextrin…………………………….....3% Sr(NO3)2 - NaNO3 Orange Star Strontium nitrate……………..43% Sodium nitrate....................15% Magnalium (45μm).............17% Parlon..................................15% Red gum...............................7% Dextrin……………………………....3% Sr(NO3)2 - CuO Magenta Star Strontium nitrate................48% Copper(II) oxide………………..10% Magnalium (45μm)..............17% Parlon...................................15% Red gum.................................7% Dextrin……………………………......3% Any Precautions/Incompatabilities: Barium nitrate and copper(II) oxide are toxic, it should only be worked with gloves and a mask. Precedure/Preparation: This composition, can be moistened with alcohol or water and requires a prime. Comments: The yellow can only be used to a limited extent, as it burns darker than the other colors and is less likely to ignite. It should also be kept in mind that strontium nitrate is a bit hygroscopic and sodium nitrate is very hygroscopic. Sr(NO3)2 Red Star: Sr(NO3)2 Roter Stern (youtube.com) Ba(NO3)2 Green Star: Ba(NO3)2 Grüner Stern (youtube.com) Ba(NO3)2 - Sr(NO3)2 Yellow Star: Ba(NO3)2 - Sr(NO3)2 Gelber Stern (youtube.com) Ba(NO3)2 - Sr(NO3)2 Orange Star: Ba(NO3)2 - Sr(NO3)2 Orangener Stern (youtube.com) NaNO3 Yellow Star: NaNO3 Gelber Stern (youtube.com) Sr(NO3)2 - NaNO3 Orange Star: Sr(NO3)2 - NaNO3 Orangener Stern (youtube.com) Sr(NO3)2 - CuO Magenta Star: Sr(NO3)2 - CuO Magenta Stern (youtube.com)