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Celebrated Diwali this year with my fireworks and would like to share some with you.

Gutted for the seeds for roasting, and dispersing for the deer in my back yard.

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Just checking, but the BP itself burns fairly cleanly, right? That's the first thing to check. My initial thoughts also go to the NC lacquer. If the solution is too thin, I could see it soaking into the core more than you expect. A thicker solution may prevent as much migration. If the NC is lower nitration, I could see it not burning as cleanly and maybe interfering or consuming some of the fuel or oxidizer in the BP making residue like that. This is kind of a tough problem. I know it's not as robust, but if your process supports it, have you tried burning a portion of uncoated fuse? It might help narrow it down to see if it's the string/construction that's the issue or the coating.

Winokur's Silver C as a gerb needs milled black powder to give the necessary power. It's a really great effect BP 0.68 Barium Carbonate 0.10 Antimony Trisulphide 0.14 Al (250 mesh) 0.08 2x15g in 0.5inch diameter tubes, no choke: Winokur Silver C.mp4

I think it looks great, to get what you talk about you probably need to switch to something perchlorate based? Or whatever is used in chinese visco.

Here’s my attempt at a cake insert, pardon the terrible out-of-focus video: IMG_0263.mov I used a 3/4” ID x 2-1/8” tube and pressed clay plug with time delay fuse imbedded (I used willow effect fuse so that it also created a tail). Buell red and C8 +15% FeTi stars, granulated BP + 7/3 flash break. This was mostly a test to see if the stars would light, which it appears most (if not all) did.

Not ferrous sulphide, which is FeS? With all the stuff that MadBoy has shared on this forum, can somebody tell me what value it has been to any of us? He didn't even secure the mortar tube! Hope nobody copies that move! MadBoy should either post the entire formula and description of his star-making process in English, or quit posting mysterious info that does nothing but confuse people. We are here to share with each other and help each other. MadBoy, why are you here? Do you think you are being helpful? Sorry folks, but this guy is getting on my last nerve.

Tubo de papel de 2 mm VID_20241029_215511769.mp4

Hi it's great that there is a topic about cakes. I really like to play with them. It doesn't take up much space, it doesn't require a mountains of ingredients.I have created my own or modified from sources star compositions. in one way or another, they are similar to all the others, but they are adapted to a small shells. Differs in that the stars are not too bright and have a suitable delay and small diameter, which is suitable for small firework shells. Cake are my main fireworks, so I spend most time on them.

Mad.mp4 Thank you sir Shere me video

He has prepared flare tube and filled mixture into it and ignited it, it seems he hasn't prepared stars out of it. Star may behave differently than as shown in flare tube, you may give a try for a small batch and test it out. Amount of water depends how hard you are going to press mixture, if much water you may need to press less this might kill effect if glitter composition is too sensitive to water and vice versa. Apply same preparation method like other glitter formulations e.g. water/alcohol , upto 17 or 20 percent water.

For cheap - I agree with the large box, but a simple ceramic space heater, a cutout for the hot air to enter, a couple small vents for air to discharge on the other end, and you can leave it outside for the night. I live in a pretty humid area as well, and that is all I've ever needed for a drying box. Some day I will make a fancy one, but I like the simplicity, the affordability, and of it ever goes up in flames - that's alright, it's outside and wont cost me much to replace. I've got 4 years in my current box, I've not had that happen and it's still holding up.

I wouldn't go any lower than 8800 for 70/30. The slower mixes like Dan Thames' super whistle fuel can be pressed at 7000 PSI. For a 4oz rocket (1/2" bore), 8800 PSI would be ~1700 lbs of force.

Fonte de cauda de tigre, colocada dentro de uma garrafa de alumínio. VID_20231121_183437.mp4

In this, I put some Magnesium turning 10 mesh, to give a new effect .

Generally 1oz per pound up to 10 lbs, then 1/2 oz per pound after that, is what is written in the Fulcanelli Articles (Pyrotechnica IV and VI). My math isn't great but I think that's approximately 6%, if you prefer percentages.

Hi, I just made a visco fuse machine that took me weeks to tweak it just right to get a good visco fuse that looks very similar to factory made visco fuse, its not perfect but it looks good enough for now, The powder is fed into 12 cotton strings that wraps around it to make a powder core, then it is wrapped again in the opposite direction with 9 cotton strings and finally coated with NC lacquer and left to dry while under tension. Now i am having a problem with the powder that i am using in the fuse, the fuse doesn't burn as violent and exciting as the factory made ones or even as some DIYers on YT who made visco fuse machines, i saw fuses that have a powerful thrust just like tiny rocket motor, the fuses that i made burn more like a match and doesn't have any thrust, maybe just a tiny bit at the end, it does have a consistent flame, it is water proof, and it burns very hot, but doesn't burn like how factory made visco fuse does, i am not sure if i'm right but i think my main problems is with the powder mix that i'm using. i tried the following: 1- 75/15/10 black powder, ball milled. 2- same black powder but granulated, it clogged up the machine and the fuae diameter wasn't consistent. 3- same black powder with 20% 50/50 kno3 and magnalium. 4- same mix but with 40% 50/50 kno3 and magnalium. 5- straight up 50/50 kno3 and magnalium. The charcoal is mainly pine, the granulated black powder that i make is so powerful and quick it makes a thump sound when it burns, so my black powder isn't the problem. I tried the black powder with and without binders. I am very certain that all my materials are very pure, so purity isn't the problem. If anyone knows a good powder mix that i can try for better fuses please comment it below, i will be very grateful. Btw i don't have ANY oxidisers other than KNO3. I attached a photo and a video of my fuse, i want to make burn somewhat like this video: VID20241024145902.mp4

I always assumed that cylinder shells are a bit louder since their typically heavier than ball shells, and their shape compared to a ball shell - i have no science to back that up though. How much lift are you using?

That does not seem to be an accepted formula. Please try again with the following formula that is known to work: lead tetraoxide 37.5 maganlium 25 copper oxide 37.5 nc (double base) 10

I have made some Dragon eggs recently. Tested them along with some Ind. red stars in a star mine. Take a look. Dragon eggs composition: Pb3O4 – 70% CuO – 12.5% Magnalium (200 mesh) – 17.5% Pyro Aluminum or 999 – 5% 10% Nitrocellulose Lacquer Inde Red with Crackling.mp4

If you're looking for PVB, try searching for the brand name Butvar. Talas online sells it, but it's a lot pricier than I remember it being. https://www.talasonline.com/Butvar-Resin As an aside, they have some of the nicest wheat paste I've ever used. It used to cost about 2-3x of what Playbox or other cheaper brands were running, but they look to have dropped the price on 5+lb bags to a much more attractive price. I've had nothing but problems with shellac and alcohol. I haven't heard of a lot of issues with phenolic resin and alcohol binding, but it's also not unreasonable. I suspect a lot of people are using 91% or 70% IPA for binding, and I wonder if there is anything to it or if the water slows things down enough to prevent skinning over or driving itself in as much. It may seem counterintuitive, but in certain coating industries, slower evaporating additives are used to prevent the coating from getting hazy or remaining tacky. Remaining tacky is generally a sign of incomplete solvent removal, and has the same root cause as what we'd call a skinned over or driven in star. That might be something to consider as well if you're looking for a different direction to fix this issue. On paper, the solvent will take more time to evaporate, but in practice it's overall faster because locking solvent in is prevented. This is just me thinking out loud. There are two main flavors of phenolic resins, Novolac and Resole. We typically use Novolac. It's generally a solid, is acid catalyzed, and can be cross linked with hexamine or other linkers. Resole resin is generally a liquid, is base catalyzed, and can be thermally cross-linked on it's own. I wonder if the base present from the carbonate is somehow interacting or otherwise impacting the acid catalyzed Novolac phenolic resin in some way.

Best unique Firework invention India, My mind thinking in reality successful. Mad boy20241021_151820.mp4

Usually it's best to choose Water or solvent binding. Most people will run into far less issues this way. Choose which binder you want to use. Then only use the appropriate " activator " for it. There's no second guessing it, because it was done correctly the first time. The generally accepted rule of thumb. That I've always heard ( and trusted ) is 10% or less of alcohol when binding with dex. Still though, I preferred water only binding. The more alcohol you use, the weaker the binding strength will be. Both strontium/sodium nitrate based stars can be water bound. With strontium, it's the impurities that make it take on water. Usually this is only an issue with Chinese manufactured strontium nitrate. I've Water bound 10's of pounds ( or more ) of strontium nitrate based stars. With out any issues. But, I would only buy/use Japanese or dupont manufactured strontium nitrate. With sodium nitrate it can also be water bound. But, the relative humidity needs to be below 66% for them to dry. If the RH is above 66% they will take on water. The lower the RH the faster they will dry. I've also made 10'S of pounds ( or more ) of water bound sodium nitrate based stars, with no issuses. Phenolic Resin, doesn't play well, with high carbonate based stars some times. Iirc, if the quality of the carbonate is overly alkaline. It will affect the drying/curing of a phenolic bound star. I've had this happen to me before. When I first stared using phenolic resin. Back when Jim W was selling it as big crushed "rocks" and you had to process yourself. You can probably get around this, with your current materials. If you Water bind the formula. Using No Acohol. That way the phenolic is just along for the ride as a fuel.

Well, as I have a spice/seasoning company 😄- I typically use my General Purpose rub. But also make a batch with my Hot Whang! wing rub. And I DO enjoy straight up dry ranch dressing powder.. ALWAYS use Kosher salt too. Ain’t even any iodized in my house. I have a product called “Nekkid Brine”... just the chem of the brine and basic Kosher and dehy honey for some balance. I’ll add a little of that to all my mixes during the soak/simmer process before the bake.

Thats great..!! 👍

What is the purpose for making this BP slurry? Right off the top of my head I can think of three or four reasons and some would be made slightly different. One thing to remember, any time you are adding a considerable amount of water to BP, it is a good idea to add alcohol to the water. Any where from 10% to 50% depending on why you are making the slurry. There are two good reasons for adding alcohol; first it will speed up the drying and secondly, it will significantly lower the solubility of the potassium nitrate in the BP. Why would you want these two things? Simple, when the potassium nitrate is dissolved in water, it will re-crystallize when drying. The crystals that form can grow rather large and the longer it takes to dry the larger those crystals will grow. Growing large crystals of potassium nitrate in your BP will do exactly the opposite of all that ball milling you did when making the BP in the first place, making it very slow burning garbage!

i was looking for good purple stars, and both of these seemed to have good reviews. tried a small batch of each, and burned a couple last night. the plan is to build a couple of small shells and see what they look like in the sky, but here are the ground tests of each. IMG_1135.mov IMG_1134.mov

Professional persulfate flash powder does not exist in any form. Persulfates should not be purchased for this purpose. It can ignite spontaneously at any time due to moisture. There are many much stronger professional flash powders with magnesium. I have never heard of a single pyrotechnic composition in which any kind of persulfate is used. This is a completely homemade invention. It is far behind the strong and bright flash powders. I've tried all the popular oxidizers for flash powders, and persulfates are one of those oxidizers that are not worth it in terms of quality, performance and safety.

While the formula may not look the same. All that really matters, is that the builder prefers the change. I used to use a modified version of w16 or w20. BP/Polverone base, additional bicarb, a specific Mg/Al mesh range. Wasn't really w16/20 anymore. But, it was tuned to my preference. Which as a builder, that's all that really mattered to me.

You'll typically adjust the amount of bp base, based on the most acceptable ratio of the charcoal, sulfur, and potassium nitrate in the formula. You can always add more of the individual ingredients afterwards. For instance: Tom’s modified Win 20 glitter (https://www.fireworkscookbook.com/firework-recipe/gold-strobe-toms-modified-win-20-glitter/) 47 potassium nitrate 9.8 charcoal 16.7 sulfur 11.8 MgAl 6.9 sodium bicarbonate 3.9 red iron oxide 3.9 dextrin We know that 100g of 75-15-10 BP base will have 75g of potassium nitrate. We need, at max, 47g of nitrate to fill the needs of the formula. So, 100g is too much. We need to find what amountof BP will get us that 47g. In this case, we need [(47/75)*100] = 62.7g. That 62.7g of BP will give us: (62.7g x 0.75)=47g potassium nitrate (62.7g x 0.15)=9.4g charcoal (62.7gx0.10)=6.3g sulfur Tom’s modified Win 20 glitter becomes: 62.7g BP Base (9.8-9.4)=0.4g charcoal (16.7-6.3)=10.4g sulfur 11.8g MgAl 6.9g sodium bicarbonate 3.9g red iron oxide 3.9g dextrin You'll find that sometimes solving for potassium nitrate gives too much sulfur or charcoal for what the formula needs. In those cases, you might need to instead solve for the component that is causing the overage and add nitrate.

Converting the individual components of a scratch mixed glitter comp. To a BP based glitter comp. Like a traditional tremelon using 7FA as the base.

It burns constantly to produce falling sparks just like waterfall effect. It is similar to sparkler like construction ( meaning of term he has given "dori" in english is rope) but instead of metal wire rod it uses paper pipe tube (looks like rope) just like quick match pipe and it is filled with spark producing composition to produce falling sparks effect. He has used red strobe composition (he knows why) instead of spark producing composition.

Another shell footage for white wave 8 inch shells. I prepared 11 shells will post videos soon...

Some of us choose not to treat the new guys like idiots for not knowing the difference, and help by pointing him in the right direction (as long as theyvare open to help). I don't need to be the smartest guy in the room by pointing out all the flaws in the guy's posts. He admitted he was new, seems willing to learn, and was pointed to a site where he can read up on flash comps and get educated before asking more about the flash. I read through all the posts he put up in a few hours, and though I'm pretty open on handing out what little I know, even I was concerned for his safety. I can appreciate the info Aurthur provided, but again, I prefer to treat the new guy like I would like to be treated so maybe he will stuck around and learn to enjoy Pyro in a safer way. Surely we all have to start somewhere.

Find a "rigid shaft coupling" with a 1/2" ID. I have 2 types from two manufacturers. Maybe one came from Grainger? Not perfect (they don't completely surround the tube), but good enough for the low pressures with the small NEPT tubes. I think about $20-30 a few years ago.

Test of two fuse timings with Davis White #1 and Buell Red mix. BuellRedDavisWhite1.mp4

I have been making this for a long time but a few years ago I searched a lot through out the web to get more information regarding this firework and was totally disappointed. Dan requested me to start a thread so I have decided to share whatever I know about this firework. There are various types of ground spinners but this type consisting of a spiral paper tube casing, filled with composition and the casing is also consumed when it burns. I examined several of this type from the market and guess that the composition is a modified flash like powder with Al filings. So some trial and error session and wasting lot of chemicals, I got a composition which works great for me. The composition is as follows- Barium nitrate –25% (-120) Potassium nitrate-12% (-120) Sulfur-7% MgAl-12% (-200) Al-powder-32% (< 45 micron flake, coated, mepco 999) Al-filings-12% (30-80 mesh turnings from Al utensil factories) Extreme care must be taken with this composition and all the safety precautions must be followed like flash. Casing –It’s a vital part of this firework and if thin, burnt off all the composition at a time. Thicker tube blocks the flame and the hot gases as well and that may explode. A good quality virgin kraft paper should be used or it will tear off during spiraling. I use 40 -50lb virgin kraft of 14”long and 5” width with the grain parallel to the length and dry roll my tube with a 6mm od Al dowel. I apply wheat paste about 1”at the end. Filling-I usually use funnel and wire to fill the tube and always check for no air gaps and even filling with my finger tips. I leave off filling about 1”to one end of the tube which is glued and flattened to make it easy for spiraling. . I also prime the tip with a green mix +5% MgAl in nc slurry. Spiraling- I tap the tube keeping it on a hard surface with a wooden mallet to flatten and bending it against the surface then make it spiral with patience around a1.5”od pipe or something like that. I put sufficient glue and either use a jig or tie with a rubber band that it cannot stretch out. Finishing- After drying I open the rubber band and glued two card board discs, one of which has a circular bulging part at the middle for easy movement. If you have any thought and idea please do share. Here is a video of my spinners which I made last year. http://youtu.be/pBbQZCoRTmo

Zumber, you might want to stop talking about things you have no idea about. I've seen an increasing amount of you trying to talk about things you're clearly not well versed in. Blackhead aluminum, as are most flake aluminums, has some degree of stearin or stearic acid in it. It's quite obvious, especially when opening a fresh drum. It has sort of a sweet crayon odor to it to me at least. This is also exemplified in the "matter soluble in organic solvent" line of the specification. It's not as coated some bright flakes can be. You may also want to compare to German Blackhead, which is very clearly stated there is a coating. https://www.eckart.net/en/standart-pyro-5413-h-super-aluminium-powder-047505e50 These types of materials are not at all safe from chemical reactions that can occur in stars. In fact, they're one of the worst offenders. The coating may keep them shiny or from impact welding together during manufacture, but it doesn't do a lot toward preventing chemical attack. The process of mixing pyro compositions could distub the layer or allow chemicals it may react with to be intimately bonded to the surface due to the sticky nature of the waxy coating. The real driver of chemical reactions in stars is the disruption or dissolving of the passivating oxide layer on the surface of the metal. Boric acid is not effective for Mg or MgAl because the oxide coating dissolves in both acid and base, where as aluminum oxide only really dissolves in base readily (with some exceptions not relevant to pyro).

I am nothing, I am follow only our Indian formula and I culture only Indian firework formulation I am telling you because you are Indian.

In india no one make winokur,indian own formula more good. At last I am tell you. gold coin born india 1950 to 1955 when that moment winkor not born. Indian some ganddu humans flow winkor but it is our bad luck.

My work make new and easy formula and test But It is not baby work,baby work is only talking theory not a practical but don't worry I am not stop like baby theory. 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

Kno3 1000g Charchol 800g Sulfar 100g Sodium oxalate 25g Dextrin 80g 1st step kno3+sulfar+oxalate all mix 3time, After then charcoal add also dextrin Make 4mm stars and enjoy gold effect

My friend make it. I am very proud to my friend

Better? The tests I've seen show TP was much hotter. Is that not the goal...? It was a massive improvement over the Skylighter mixed charcoal.

KClO4 - 42% AL/Mg alloy - 22% SrCO3 - 18% CuO - 5% PVC - 6% Phenolic resin - 7%

Another good pink to add to the list, ChrisH's https://www.fireworkscookbook.com/firework-recipe/pink-star-chrishs/

Flying Fountain -Uron Tubri (local name)

File Name: STIX PyroComps 2018 v1.zip File Submitter: stix File Submitted: 05 Jan 2018 File Category: Chemistry & Experiments A useful tool that is more aimed at the pyrotechnics experimenter, but can also be used as a simple formula storage and retrieval system. You can use it for making peanut butter & jelly sandwiches, pyrotechnics or making home-made baby formula - it doesn't matter. The database allows users to store and retrieve pyrotechnic or other formulas, then easily create a composition mix. Users can add production methods, images and enter results. Click here to download this file