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When "Royal Gunpowder Mills" (Look it up!) was the UK's source of powder for the Army and Navy, they had nitrate collectors (People) who traveled the country and returned with (very rough!) sodium nitrate. This was collected from cess pits and compost heaps -these were among the most hated "tax collectors" because they took the fertiliser from the farmers. The collected material was purified by recrystalisation and then treated with wood ash (which is rich in potassium) to precipitate out potassium nitrate. Perhaps there is a way to return to first principles to find a way to make pot nitrate by leaving nature to do it's thing. Remember that the Chinese had Black Powder long before they had chemical factories putting potassium nitrate into polythene sacks. Nine months making pot nitrate may be needed to make pyro in places where it's not retail.

Hi everyone, I guess, this is the right section to share my almost deadly experience, that I made 30 hours ago. And I want to share it, as a warning for everyone else. Few days ago, I bought me a small electric Lead/Tin-Melter and wanted to clean up my old lead, which I got for cheap, by melting and pouring it into new ingots. The old leadfoil had few spots of Paint on it, but that never has been a problem for a cleaning melt, but this time, some also had a very small, filmlike residue, of a grayish polymere stuff, because it seems to come from a roof. What it exactly is, I don't know. I didnt bother about that and dropped it into the melting pot, which wasn't the first time, by the way, I did it earlier already some times, but I was using a gas torch, not an electric melter, like this time. But then, a bit of smoke came out and there was also a very strange and intense smell in the air, that I never smelled before in my life, which I would describe, as similar to old dust, from a vacuumcleaner or something, a stiffling smell and and it fitted to what the smell of Phosgene is described like. Also I realized an immediate burning in the eyes and on the skin, and an alkaline like taste in the mouth. I had the windows open before starting, but it was still produced enough, to breathe in some of that shit. I realized, it was some very toxic shit going on here and I escaped from the area, as fast as I could. After some research, I am almost sure now, that I accidentally produced small amounts of Phosgene by melting old lead, with residues of chlorinated hydrocarbons on it. I didn't develop the toxic pulmonary edema, even while I realized a burning feeling in the respiratory tract for a many hours after that, but I am quite sure, it was fucking close and I had more luck than brain in this case, not to kill myself. I hope, this will help someone, who also has the task of melting old lead, to be aware of this danger and to take the right safety precautions before. It wouldn't have happened to me, if I had that information before, at least... but I never read about it anywhere. It's not always the explosive stuff, that can kill. Don't underestimate the danger of poisons, that can develop accidentally due to pyrolysis.

I cut the spollette tubes in half because they're way too long as is. Two strands of match in the tube folded over and secured at the rocket end. If I leave them sticking out straight I can't fully seat the heading. The result is best so far. I'm impressed with how easily this went up. Still too much delay imo but I wonder how much of it is the actual delay vs the time it takes for the flame to propagate through the match and arrive at the other end. You've been an excellent help, I appreciate that. VID_20250308_204217983~2.mp4

It's just fine, no stabilizer is needed. Flash is very energetic and dangerous mixture so follow all safety measures. This kind of discussion is to be done in HE section. Don't just attempt if you are very new to this thing.

Important breakthroughs for everyone in perchlorate production, from which a widely accessible and inexpensive production method can be developed. Progress in experimental circles has resulted in steps forward, providing a very solid reason for hope among experimenters that an accessible perchlorate production method can be achieved. This involves the membrane cell, with electrodes available to everyone. The basic electrode materials are Graphite, Glassy Carbon, Si, and SiC, which are worth experimenting with. The standout material is Glassy Carbon. However, it is also worth experimenting with MMO anodes for perchlorate production using the lead chlorate method. The key element is an experiment where pure lead was used as the anode in a NaClO3 membrane cell for a period, leading to the formation of lead chlorate. This was then swapped for graphite, on which a PbO2 layer successfully formed, preventing the electrode from disintegrating. In a graphite membrane chlorate cell, or where pH is controlled and the alkalization of the cell is prevented, it has also been documented that the graphite wear was reduced to a minimum, keeping the solution clear. On the sciencemadness forum, successful chlorate production was reported with a glassy carbon anode and a clear solution, with minimal electrode wear. Therefore, membrane cells seem to be very promising for perchlorate production. It's also good news that those who experimented with graphite anodes in membrane cells have been able to detect traces of perchlorate. Additionally, it’s good news that cheaper ozone generators are now available, and all that’s needed now is one that can operate continuously, as ozone is considered effective for perchlorate production. In a membrane cell, when gases are bubbled from the anode space into the cathode space and NaClO3 is used, this also solves the chlorine gas problem. I see that, aside from factory platinum and lead dioxide, and excluding overly complicated methods, there is a chance to develop a simpler and much cheaper method that will be accessible to everyone. Combined properly, these methods do not contradict the descriptions in scientific documents. Lead Ion perchlorate membrane cell Lead Ion perchlorate cell test The Simplest (But Most Expensive) Perchlorate Cell (Using boron-doped diamond electrode in a membrane cell) (Succeed NaClO4 production in a membrane cell without Platium or PbO2 using boron-doped diamond anode) The glassy carbon Anode: First test in a chlorate cell The Graphite Anode in pH controlled cells And now we're not talking about the theories of beginners or idiots, but there are tangible results that are worth focusing on. It also gives a realistic chance for the development of an affordable, usable method that anyone can create at home.

The energetic stuff is all outside, just a bunch of paper getting assembled inside 👍

If it turns everything silver then it is bright flake.

seems to work well in the video what size is the threaded bar ? thank you

I've been using one for months now and it works perfectly. I am very happy with it! Thanks again!

I've made a few new headings using blue aluminum and 50/40/10 kclo4/al/s. The al is a 50:50 mix of blue/dark. I use a small 1g charge of hot 70/30 attached to the match to help it go. Open air the mix is not nearly as reactive as 70/30 but confined it seems to be every bit as reactive. I also switched over to jute twine instead of cotton. For some reason I break cotton string really easily and this stuff is very hard to break. The reason I switched comps is to pursue a cheaper way to make these and be a bit safer in the process. I also want to address an issue with oxidizer always clumping up. Is it safe to prescreen kclo4 together with sulfur and the less reactive aluminum that way all that needs to be done is diapering in dark al? I took a few small samples of this premix and smacked it with a hammer a few times. I also tried grinding it with a hammer. I even took a torch to it and I can't get it to do anything. Does that mean it's safe to store a "cold mix" to hasten construction and eliminate clumping or is this a bad idea?

Added to above; www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Royal+Gunpowder+Mills

I cannot buy pot nitrate even from my relative who is a farmer with hundreds of acres. However the original processes for making nitrate predates the Haber-Bosch process by hundreds of years probably the era of canons and black powder weapons was over before Haber and Bosch. Study the proceedings of the "Royal Gunpowder Mills" Waltham Abbey, England. ( www.royalgunpowdermills.com ) www.royalgunpowdermills.com/rgm-historic-reprint-series offers a lot of info on methods before high explosives Beware of imperial UK measure and historic names! Whether they dispatch overseas I have no idea. If you must have pot nitrate the old method still works, study Cody'sLab (and others on youtube). Be aware that making nitrate by the bio method will always be available but will take TIME like possibly years, and consume lots of pee and some effort to get urea oxidised to nitrate and to get sodium nitrate converted to potassium nitrate, then to recrystalise everything a few times to produce a product like commercial KNO3 crystals. As nitrates are also of interest to drug grow operators, there are several reasons why States and their law enforcement don't want nitrate on the market too freely. Possession of nitrate may be an offence in your country.

I think the Birkeland-Eyde-Reactor is one of the best for home use. You can make any nitrate you want with it. However, you need knowledge to assemble it. Mini reactors for home use are not widely sold anywhere. It only produces dilute nitric acid directly, 15%/Month/1,5 l it already produces usable amounts of nitrate. In the case of potassium bicarbonate from ~304 g, ~486 g KNO3 can made. Or much more cheaper KCl only ~359 g required for ~486 g KNO3. But HCl gas is also formed here. Or with KOH only ~270 g required for ~486 g KNO3.It would still be acceptable if extracted in about two months in a slower setup. Calculating Mass of nitric acid: 303.75 g HNO3 for 1.5 liters of 15% HNO3 solution. Scratch and urine method, also few people undertake it. This would be too difficult for experimental young people to implement. But both methods are suitable for homemade production. The vast majority like to work with ready-made chemicals, and if they really have no other choice and really need it, they will resort to alternatives. However, it is much more easier to produce it at home using other pure nitrates, what very soluble in a small amount of water.

I found a description of successful synthesis using the old method using scratch, urine for 8-10 kg KNO3. What is important is that potassium can be obtained from wood ash. Nitrogen production only takes place in alkaline environments; the process stops in acidic environments. Once the compost is earthy, there is no problem in principle with further increasing the nitrogen content. During the process, some of the nitrogen is used by bacteria to break down organic matter. Potassium carbonate and hydroxide are usually made from wood ash, which has an alkalizing effect and can be mixed with it when an earthy substance is obtained. Using urea fertilizer, a concentration of 200g/10l can be safely prepared without harming the bacteria. Gardeners use this method to increase the nitrogen content of compost. One gardener said that compost fermented in rainwater contains everything except the most important element, nitrogen. However, with this method, rainwater cannot reach it because it will wash away the nitrates. And should always be kept slightly moist. Link: 8-10kg of potassium nitrate synthesized from scratch and deer urine. There is a picture of it, it has been cleaned up nicely and is white. The method is suitable for homemade production. However, this requires a lot of wood raw materials and straw, branches and other plant trimmings. For someone who has a garden, buying one 25 kg bag of potassium nitrate is not too much, and there it is not a remarkably large amount, but is considered completely average. To burn a lot of trees to ash and harvest the necessary amount of raw materials, you need a house with a garden. The raw materials, chemicals, and tools used for pyrotechnics should never be in sight, not just when someone is buying something. The user can be very discreet, but he should refrain from buying safety fuse like Visco online, all metal powders, and all types of online purchases, such as potassium nitrate or where the buyer is asked for any kind of identification. And if someone can't personally procure everything anonymously, they won't be working with the safest ingredients. Homemade Black Match absolutely unsafe, and unsuitable for timing, ball milling magnesium powder also very dangerous. But I only worked with these kinds of materials for a few years in the beginning, and every purchase there was untraceable. I bought potassium nitrate personally this year, and they didn't ask anything in Hungary. If someone buys: oxidizer, fuels, safety fuses, and all the raw materials at a pyroshop, they buy them all at once. Shipping is so expensive that ordering separately online when you can get everything in one place would be a luxury. Suspicious transactions are sure to be reported for the raw materials on the list the sellers. So that the authorities will pay attention there if they find combinations like metal powder oxidizer. But people buy many of these ingredients separated in masse. To get noticed there, have to stand out from the crowd. You can imagine how many people buy potassium nitrate in stores every day for the garden. There is no legal homemade pyro in Hungary. I've bought a lot of things online at once, (like visco fuse with oxidizers, metal powders there was a time when they sent me with two big bags) and I don't know of anyone among my friends who has had a problem with this. But on occasions like this, whoever takes on the task must be prepared for the order to go wrong. The events that have happened in Germany, justify maximum caution when buying something. In the worst case scenario, if a house search were to take place and things were found, they would have to be tied to a specific person, because it does not necessarily belong to the person in whose name the property is located. Never admit that something is yours if someone finds it.

Plus one,I have also sent pm to admin for HE access two times, last was in June 2024 and recently just in last week but it seems he hasn't read it. Kindly waiting out for response.

I have seen that Videos years ago already, but the fun is, in the last part, he hasn't even produced a single gram of pure KNO3. Cody's Lab is better, much better to learn something, and NurdRage. And btw. I already built a Birkeland-Eyde-Reactor and I wouldn't say it's complicated, as long as you buy the suitable transformer for it. As I said already, the energy-efficiency is terrible, but who cares, if you can use free Solarpower in your garden, that would be unused, otherwise? Also I calculated, that you - even with the most expensive electricity costs, in the end won't pay more fore a litre of HNO3, than the average price in a lab-shop is, for one litre. And reminding the fact, that they wouldn't sell it to you anyway, or under any circumstances, will monitor your order activities, it's generally not such a bad idea, to better use the Birkeland-Eyde reactor at home, for DIY HNO3.

If you have any finer wood chips, sprinkle them gently with a urea solution regularly, after a year the bacteria will convert them into easily extractable potassium nitrate. Need a 60 litre water barrel to this, it's not even worth trying with a smaller amount. If it becomes earthy, the nitrate is ready. Wood provides the raw material for potassium, All kinds of nitrates are formed from different salts, but this one will dominate here. Potassium nitrate can be extracted from this by boiling, settling, and repeated recrystallization. The method is discreet and inexpensive to implement, but only those who are very determined will implement it, and it is unlikely for a beginner. With almost no chemicals, this is what I would choose for making potassium nitrate. In the past, animal urine was used for this. This is the real old-fashioned way. Birkeland-Eyde-Process it draws too many watts and amps from the electrical grid. And such a device is complicated to put together. Only a very narrow group of the most determined and professional would do this. But it is a proven method that works in amateur circles. I also see that most people get to the simplest things, and if they get more complicated, they don't bother with it. Firecrackers are some of the simplest products, and if we only take magnesium into account, amateurs mix it with almost any oxidizer that professionals use, and some that they don't. In most cases, and in most countries, this is where the concept of amateur pyrotechnics ends. As for oxidizers, the modern economy would collapse if they wanted to remove all of them just for this. Then there's aluminum, from which powder can be discreetly made. In Germany, those who will make them will definitely reach for more dangerous materials. But here, they will mainly be bothering young people with this, not terrorists or criminals. This will only cause mass outrage. I said this a long time ago, and I still think the same: if they wanted to eliminate explosives, they would have to get rid of most modern chemicals like sodium chloride. They will fail at this! It’s already impossible to enforce. I don’t fear that this stupid idea will work for long. Just like with fertilizers, household food production would collapse. Nitrogen is one of the most important nutrients for plants. Those who are planning to do something bad don't even need to touch the chemicals on their list, they will solve it without it! Potassium nitrate with finer wood chips and urea: How to Make Potassium Nitrate from Scratch: Part One (Making Nitrified Earth) HOW TO MAKE POTASSIUM NITRATE FROM SCRATCH in your Backyard Garden: Part II of III Home Made Fertilizer Potency Test (making Potassium Nitrate from Scratch Part III)

The explosive precursors regulations in each European Country seem to be very similar. and make some chemicals hard to buy. However the era of the canon was before the Haber (etc) processes were invented, so there must have been potassium nitrate available.

Cody's method of making nitrate is sound! It's the same biochemistry that was used in the Royal Gunpowder Mills era. Cody's nitrate making machine could easily be replicated by any man with a shed, and Cody's use of electricity could well be entirely solar or wind based in any setup. Sometimes you have to realise that pyro takes time. The willow for charcoal needs to be choice sizes when cut and then left to dry for a year or two prior to debarking and charcoaling. In that year or so you could easily make nitre by a bio process, and have it converted from sodium nitrate as made to potassium nitrate as wanted. My DIY isn't too bad, search YT for " 16" shell of shells do it 2017 " my shell built on a holiday still pleases me.

Walter White, this is learned professional jargon, spiced up with Rube Goldberg machine ideas. My opinion is that you’re not involved in amateur chemistry at any level, and you're not really here as an amateur chemist either. Technically, you have no grasp of how these things actually work. I’ve counted six people on this forum who are currently active, and I think it’s pretty obvious what their intentions are. Let’s stick to the simple things, things that are achievable for everyone. Even the professionals don’t complicate things unnecessarily :). Beginners won’t even attempt something if it’s more complicated. And if anyone says something, show a reference or something transparent, because it’s easy to write novels about nonsense. If something happened in Germany and someone wrote about it, we’d like to read that too. If anyone knows good techniques in any field, let’s see them in a way that’s clear to everyone. Those who know what they’re talking about can present things transparently, while those who don’t just speak vaguely and make excuses. We prefer clear and straightforward information, not rambling nonsense.

Ammonium bicarbonate will not contaminating the product and can be easily removed (unless there was a very significant overdose of nitric acid). Sodium carbonate will contaminated the product, and it may not work in a colorful composition. Sodium contamination can cause a strong yellow color. I think what you made will be enough for a while. For boiling required a beaker. Or in worse case, wrap a glass jar in foil and heat it in a sand bath. Such an acidic solution cannot be placed in a metal container or heated. Where I live, you can buy NH4HCO3 any supermarket in a 15-gram bag.

If you used alcohol, it would dissolve the RG or shellac. But not the parlon. If you used acetone it would dissolve the RG or shellac and soften the parlon. Subbing for sulfur and adding dex. Activating with water should work well.

Not sure what fertilizer you have exactly, Its much easier to just buy pure KNO3, Sometimes its sold as a fertilizer called NPK 13-0-45 which is essentially pure KNO3, it maybe has some tiny additives at most, if both options are not available you could buy 12-6-40 which contains at least 70% KNO3 or maybe 12-12-36 which contains about 60%, i don't remember the exact KNO3 content but i think its somewhat close, any fertilizer that is not pure KNO3 will for sure need purifying by recrystallization which is very simple, each recrystallization will give purer KNO3 but you'll lose a bunch of the product, if you have 12-6-40 and you did 2 recrystallizations you'll probably end up with only 50% of what you started with, maybe a little more if your process was very good. Anyway i do not recommend you do any of this without experience, and also check if it is legal to have KNO3 as an individual in your country, this oxidizer is regulated in almost every country, every country has its own regulations so check them carefully.

Per, Dave F. Borax is a sodium based compound. Sodium can have a strong color influence in the amber/yellow spectrum.

Is there any shells stored inside red bag? If so, it's much dangerous to keep it near mortor tube. Another beautiful shell....!! Can you mention what kind of charcoal coating prime was used?

It was damn beautiful shell..!! Bravo..!! How many layers pasted? Can you share dragon flower recipe?? Thanks.

That’s pretty close (5g) for a 5and 6” . Start there and adjust to break w/o blind stars. Just remember as the shell size grows the need for booster decreases. There is more powder working for you in the volume of burst .

Just want to say "Hi" here, to get my upgrade to Full Member. I am from Germany and for sure, an older one here. I am dedicated to Chemistry and Pyrotechnics, including HE, all of my life. Have a lot of experiences already and still alive and owning all Limbs. I am also Member of the Sciencemadness Forum, but with another Name. Just found this Forum here by random and are happy about it and that I was able to join the fellow Nurds here... Actually I am teaching some Jesse Pinkman, how to produce his own Sodium Chlorate. If there are any questions, feel free to ask me. Wish you all a good time here and - Stay safe!

Per forum rules, all discussion of flash and flash formulas is to be done in the H.E. section only. To gain access to that section, please read this topic: https://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/79-how-to-get-access/#comment-210 This topic will be closed. Thank you for your cooperation.

It was about 7 grams. But ya, the booster in combination with the heavier stoppers in the ends and doing something new with the string. It seems i over shot my target pressure

In my opinion, any questions on how to make flash powder should be directed to this Wikipedia page: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_powder This is a very informative article, and relieves any of us of any responsibility for misinformation. It should be the obligation of the poster to read this article first, before asking more questions- in my opinion. Maybe I sound like a broken record, but it's because this question keeps coming up. Welcome Mr. White, I'm watching your life story unfold right now. It's a gripping tale, even after several times watching

Hey mister White how are you doing ? I could use some wisdom from you sir. I wanna do for myself flash powder firecrackers. From many fireworks publications i.ve found that best and safest formula is 7-3 ration kclo4 and AL. wanna ask you what do you thnik about this ? should be added other stabilizers or just like this is okay. thanks

Since you're planning to lift headings on rockets, the shell wall can be relatively weak as it doesn't need to withstand a lift charge. This allows for a wide range of options when it comes to burst charge strength vs casing burst strength. I would recommend reading the "Shell Burst Rockets" article starting on page 45 of Best of AFN III to get an idea of what thin-walled heavily-boosted header construction might look like. I'm starting to experiment with this concept myself - the main idea is that with a sufficiently strong burst charge, the shell wall must be just thick enough to provide a bit of confinement without leading to excessive pressure build up resulting in blind/shattered stars. I would definitely NOT recommend experimenting with the KMnO4-based flash discussed in the original article... make sure to read the follow-up article where burst charges are discussed more. KNO3 slow flash is probably a good start, or fine-grained BP with a hot flash /whistle boost. A simple way of addressing the "layers pasted vs boost" tradeoff in ball shells is to start by settling on a reasonable number of pasted layers (not too much time/labor in pasting, but sufficient layers to build up the wall thickness, 2 layers per inch of shell diameter is a common starting point) and using a standardized burst medium (e.g. willow BP on rice hulls 5:1). Thus, you isolate one variable (the booster) and can now "titrate" the amount of booster to achieve a pleasing break through a series of experiments. Things like star type and burn time will affect how "pleasing" a break of a given strength looks as well - small, fast-burning, bright stars benefit more from a hard break than larger, slower burning, dimmer stars, IMO.

The colour might be faded due to other ingredients which you have used in composition? Like due to excess use of 999/666 aluminium fuel and lower chlorine donor percentage? It's very hard to tell without knowing composition details. Can you mention other ingredients used in this composition? I prefer to dry strontium nitrate first before making any strontium base composition or I postpone my work if weather is an issue. Lab grade strontium prices are double or too much. You might give a try again when weather is good but I am sure colour faded due to excess fuel like aluminium.

Too many people harp on safety to a point a lot of people just ignore them. People are going to do what they are going to do whether given obvious safety warnings or not. Instead of saying, hey don't do this, why not give actual advice on how to be safe when using it like proper mixing methods and storage. It's like somebody asking a simple question in the beginner section and everybody just telling you to work on your black powder. Yeah, obvious, it's the beginner section.

A NEW EDITION OF THIS DOCUMENT IS AVAILABLE. THIS VERSION SHOULD NOT BE USED. THE SECOND EDITION IS AVAILABLE THROUGH THE LINKS BELOW. https://www.amateurp...cs-2nd-edition/ PYROBIN LINK FOR NON MEMBERS: http://pyrobin.com/f...PUBLISHING).pdf Over the last few months, I've been putting together a document which covers in pretty extensive detail the answer to a question I get a lot. How do you go about doing pyrotechnics with only OTC chemicals? My personal pyro interest (Aside from the more common things) is based mainly in the production of complex pyrotechnic devices with chemicals purchased and synthesized from only 'over the counter' sources such as agriculture suppliers, supermarkets and hardware stores. Since there isn't any definitive guide on how to do this, over time, to some extent, I've written my own. Below is attached this document. It details the compositions I use and the sourcing/ synthesis I use to acquire each of the chemicals listed in the compositions on the first few pages. Although I certainly don't expect anyone to read the whole thing some specific sections may be useful to those who have similar limiting factors to myself (mainly lack of suppliers) or who simply prefer to take a more hands-on approach to produce the chemicals we often take for granted. It gets a bit chemistry based in sections but anyone with enough time should be able to get around it ok. Certainly, it's not too complex. To help those looking for a specific piece of information, some notable articles contained include: Sourcing/ Finding Potassium Nitrate (KNO3), Sourcing/ Finding Lump Charcoal for Black Powder, Sourcing/ Finding Potassium Chloride (KCl), Sourcing/ Finding PVC powder (For Injection Moulding), Preparation/ Synthesis of Barium Chlorate (Ba(ClO3)2) via electrolysis, and Preparation/ Synthesis of Copper Oxychloride (Cu2(OH)3Cl) In the next few months, I may post an updated version of this guide as I write more of it, but for now, I think it's complete enough to be of use. Further, when NYE rolls around I may get some video of all the compositions together firing in a series of mines and upload that so that each compositions performance can be seen. Regards, AP

Making potassium perchlorate without lead dioxide, platinum, electrolysis, and complicated chemicals or extreme heating more than 400°C. The first method I would try are the US2858188A patent. Nothing else is needed only electricity. Just need 60% perchloric acid (12-15% NaClO3 can be added), a ozone generator and need to keep the temperature 80 to 85°C. The perchloric acid are recoverable in the process. The whole thing is that chlorate is added to the warm perchloric acid to form chlorine dioxide and ozone is bubbled to make perchlorate. From sulfuric acid or nitric acid equally good for the process and perchloric acid can be prepared with these from sodium chlorate. This is the method available to everyone. An ozone generator is needed instead of a platinum or lead dioxide electrode.

The topic deserves a more thorough research. In principle, it would work with the perchlorate synthesis with electrolysis without platinum or PbO2 anode. Patent US1279593A says with graphite or Si using a diaphragm cell possible to make perchlorate. The are SiC and Glassy Carbon which did not exist long ago. Glassy carbon crucible 10cm long and 2,4cm outside diameter, trade name SIGRADUR used sucessful for a chlorate cell. There is slower wear but the solution is clear. Using a NaClO4 KClO3 concentrated hot solutions double-displacement reaction and hot filtering the KClO4 can be easily separated from the chlorate. It takes a lot more time than with Pt, PbO2. Need a cheap, easily available electrode. It is also worth combining with an ozone generator. Using some sulfuric acid. Must check US 2858188, and DTIC AD0016814: Research on the Exploration of Methods to Produce Chlorates and Perchlorates by Means Other than Electrolytic documents. By keeping the solution hot, cold and the resulting chloric acid keeping above and under 40%, bubbling ozone, and not can make a lot of difference. There are cheaper ozone generators. There is no guarantee that it really works. The thermal decomposition the problem with is under degrees 400°C does not work. And using a simple gas stove this temperature cannot be reached. An inert ceramic that can tolerate high temperatures is required. Need a precisely controlled temperature over a long period of time like a charcoal mini grill with thermometer. Guaranteed to work, just complicated. Using US 2853362A - Process of producing perchlorates from chlorates (without electrolysis or thermal decomposition) guaranteed to work with high yield. Na2CO3+PbSO4=PbCO3+Na2SO4, Na2CO3+PBCO3+Cl2=PBO2+2NaCl+2CO2 Lead dioxide is recoverable, and sulfuric acid also recoverable from sodium sulfate using HCl. This is a cheaper way with high yield results without electrolysis or thermal decomposition. Guaranteed to work, just complicated. But everything that is not electrolysis here costs minimum double or many times more. Which is an alternative boiling chlorate with 50% HNO3 the resoult are 30% yield. Extract the perchlorate, HNO3, H2SO4 back are possible but not cheap. The yield is low and the method is costly. No one has developed effective home-made techniques for these methods. And these days, these alternative techniques are needed more than ever. More professional chemists like NurdRage who have equipment such experiments should be jointly supported in order to document them in detail on video. It would be easier for everyone than if we experimented with it separately. Those who achieve results for the community should be supported, until there is a developed technique everyone is throwing away money. There are methods that would be good for us, but for modern industry is not worth dealing with it. There are descriptions of the methods in old documents, but now there are more modern tools for it that were not available then. However, modern industry will no longer deal with these.

30 - potassium perchlorate10 - strontium carbonate30 - MgAl10 - cryolite10-PVC6-Iditol4-lactose

I've been fairly successful in all the pyro projects I've undertaken because I've tried my best to follow formula and method as closely as possible and because I've put all of my failures up for examination and criticism so I could avoid them in the future. Lloyd, Dagabu, Mumbles, DaveF etc. can be harsh critics but I take the lumps along with the advice and have corrected my mistakes ....well, except for rockets which have so many variables that only experimenting will work the bugs out.

I love coarse mgal in glitters. I have a favorite formula, but not a very representative video. For what it's worth, this would probably make a pretty nice white or silver glitter with potassium nitrate.

File Name: Winokur Glitter Comparison Sheet File Submitter: AzoMittle File Submitted: 06 Jul 2016 File Category: Aerial Shells Shows all Winokur's glitter side by side along with some basic statistics. Click here to download this file

LOL. At least we can understand WTF you're saying. We're not the grammar rodeo here; if you make a decent attempt at constructing a logical thought and presenting it in a coherent way you're not likely to have any trouble. What taxes the collective nerve of the community is the guy who starts a new thread like: hi dudz, my name iz bomz and im a exelant chemist and i wondar if u can tell me whatz a "oxidixizer?" That sort of stupidity will irk the collective soul of the Forum and incur some rather rude comments from, well, me as well as others. If you happen to make a syntax error, or forget the occasional capitalization then no harm done. Welcome to the Forum.

Hello guys I feel strong impulse to react to this topic. I've been using this proscribed chemical for years now and I'm really talking years because I,ve got a glass yar of KMNO4 for more than 20 years now and it's still as fresh as it was when I bought it. I have it tightly closed with addition of small bag of silicagel granules. That much about its storage. But since consumer fireworks are being available for last 15 years in my country (don't ask...), this valuable reserve of my beloved oxidizer became obsolete. Anyhow, from time to time I mix small quantity of Perm, Alu and S, just for a fun of it. And it still works fine. That much about its shelve life. As description to its friction sensitivity, I have a short story. Long time ago I made a few crackers, rather big ones for nowadays taste. Fuse was not available at that time and I used sparklers instead. Two of those gone off loudly but third one would not explode! It wouldn't catch fire at all! OK, we placed foulty cracker on a solid rock, topped it with another one and searched for suitable boulder to hit the whole setup from above. You probably expect to hear that my cracker went off just like that, without additional force, right? No, it did not happen. We found a really big piece of rock, I took it above my head and left it to crash into upper rock. Nothing happened but cracker was deformed beyond recognition. I repeated it again, this time harder, with no success. Third time I got mad and slammed it so hard that my boulder crushed into several pieces...and my cracker finally went off! So, lets make conclusion – it takes far more than simple friction to set this thing off. Of course, you shouldn't mix it with glycerine and keep it in your shirt pocket – we all know it will ignite spontaneously. But if you make small quantity of flash with it, I won't say a word. Wait! I'm sure I've got a certain quantity of KMNO4 flash already mixed, stored in small brown-glass yar waiting to be used. As far as I can recall, it's mixed back in 80s... So, what's the teaching? If you can't get Perchlorate, use your Perm flash without much fear. Be moderate and nothing bad will happen... Blaf