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TT is not really a very energetic mix on it own. If you want a higher spray height. You'll need to modify the nozzle. Or, blend in a percentage of fast BP. There's other techniques you can use. But, those two will be the most consistent, for a traditional look.

Thank you also, it's around 45 hours ago, but am still suffering from a burning in the throat und lungs. But at least I can still breathe, what is not the case if one gets the fatal dose.

I made some aqua strobes once ( like more than a decade ago . . . ) AP/BN/GN based. They did strobe and they were aqua. I can remember being impressed with them. Probably mostly just because they actually worked. But never went back to revisit them.

Thanks for the link Mumbles. I should have mentioned that he lists the formula in the video comments, which is: 44- Ammonium perchlorate 23- MgAl, mesh not specified 17- Barium nitrate 11- Black copper oxide 5- Dextrin It just seemed really vivid color to me, and I thought these were near impossible to make. I'd be happy with those ones.

Shit, I'm glad you're ok! Gases can be treacherous for sure. Thanks for sharing.

The strobing looks semi-regular to me, which tends to be a sign of AP based strobes vs. barium nitrate based strobes. Maybe take a prototypical green AP strobe, and start blending in copper oxide in place of barium sulfate. Adding blue tints to strobes tends to be a little touchy, as the logical choice of copper sulfate is corrosive to most metals. There are also some esoteric strobe formulas based on guanidine nitrate, but my experience with them is that the strobe performance tends to be pretty underwhelming and irregular. Completely inconsistent with that initial theory, another thought might be something along the formulas presented here, but with copper oxide in place of bismuth trioxide?

I am sorry for the delay had some family issues going on and all that. I had followed the steps after drying the powder was just as slow. So i went on a mission checking every chemical. So I decided I would purify my sulfur and KNO3. After doing that I made a normal batch with my mill how I typically would. It turns out after re crystalizing my materials my powder is just about as fast as my flash and noticed that my KNO3 has a odd smell from it. I appreciate you giving me a new method to try so I could go with something that should 100% work and leading to me figuring out what was going on. I will purify the rest of my chemicals and hopefully be squared away. My kno3 I believe I picked that up from outlawxstore.com when I was purchasing something else. All of my other chemicals came from fireworkscookbook. Thanks again everyone.

Thoughts?

You may want to try reposting in a more appropriate section.

You may want to try reposting in a more appropriate section.

Aluminum and it's alloys tend to be harder than lead and it's alloys. I'd suggest against using lead as a milling media. Stainless steel tends to be the most popular for reducing metal particle size.

You can start by crushing the shavings down with a mallet, a dedicated coffee grinder or mortar and pestle(after you have run water through them to clean any lubricants or grease from the shavings). Then slap that into a ball mill with its ceramic or lead media and mill for maybe 30min-1hr until switching to 30 min increments until you see your desired particle size.\ I recommend switching to 15 min increments as you get closer.

You have to work on it, commercial one is developed by trial and error you have to use same technique. Height depends on many things, chemicals composition,nozzle diameter,compact pressure,mesh size of spark producing metals etc. You should choose some basic formula and modify it by altering things said earlier. Alternatively you can search over here already tested formulations, tutorials and test that.

okay that is right, a good way to fixing the fuse on it's place. These commercial fountains usually makes 3-5 meter height with 5cm diameter Caliber ( even more in bigger size). How they can reach that height ? by smalling the nozzle size or other parameters? Thank you

BP slurry is primed over top of nozzle and it is allowed to dry, in commercial fountain if fuse is not secured well or if only dry bp is filled inside nozzle then there is high chance that prime powder or fuse may fall off during transportation and consumer may not be able to light it up. BP slurry avoids this problem that's the reason why fountain is primed with bp slurry over top of nozzle.

Hi everyone, I guess, this is the right section to share my almost deadly experience, that I made 30 hours ago. And I want to share it, as a warning for everyone else. Few days ago, I bought me a small electric Lead/Tin-Melter and wanted to clean up my old lead, which I got for cheap, by melting and pouring it into new ingots. The old leadfoil had few spots of Paint on it, but that never has been a problem for a cleaning melt, but this time, some also had a very small, filmlike residue, of a grayish polymere stuff, because it seems to come from a roof. What it exactly is, I don't know. I didnt bother about that and dropped it into the melting pot, which wasn't the first time, by the way, I did it earlier already some times, but I was using a gas torch, not an electric melter, like this time. But then, a bit of smoke came out and there was also a very strange and intense smell in the air, that I never smelled before in my life, which I would describe, as similar to old dust, from a vacuumcleaner or something, a stiffling smell and and it fitted to what the smell of Phosgene is described like. Also I realized an immediate burning in the eyes and on the skin, and an alkaline like taste in the mouth. I had the windows open before starting, but it was still produced enough, to breathe in some of that shit. I realized, it was some very toxic shit going on here and I escaped from the area, as fast as I could. After some research, I am almost sure now, that I accidentally produced small amounts of Phosgene by melting old lead, with residues of chlorinated hydrocarbons on it. I didn't develop the toxic pulmonary edema, even while I realized a burning feeling in the respiratory tract for a many hours after that, but I am quite sure, it was fucking close and I had more luck than brain in this case, not to kill myself. I hope, this will help someone, who also has the task of melting old lead, to be aware of this danger and to take the right safety precautions before. It wouldn't have happened to me, if I had that information before, at least... but I never read about it anywhere. It's not always the explosive stuff, that can kill. Don't underestimate the danger of poisons, that can develop accidentally due to pyrolysis.

yes, i think so too, but nozzle is under that BP slurry?!

Yeah it's just screened black powder with binder ( dextrin ).

Work out when the fuse for the header will ignite relative to the rocket comp then adjust the timing to suit. If the motor core is full length then the header fuse will light as the motor lights. If the motor has half an inch or more of solid powder rammed in place then this will delay the passing of fire to the header fuse.

It's most likely a BP or Hot Prime slurry. Nice job on the fountains !

I am far from a rocket expert. You may want to consider a bulkhead or some kind of solid portion above the core of the propellant. Rockets tend to build up quite a bit of internal pressure by design. Unless the top shell/report were very well adhered, I'd be concerned about it shooting it off when the rocket lights. You really want that pressure directed in the downward direction.

Thank you. Yes, rammed by hand. In commercial samples i see the fuse is attached to the nozzle by some material like adhesive (glue). do you know what is that? (as show the picture below)

I'm planning to build this and experiment with a timed fuse and the thrust of my sugar mix. Am I missing anything in order to successfully have a report in the air? - FP for break charge - kno3/sugar for propellant

Sounds like a hand rammed, for first footage it feels like pressure is not consistent. Second one seems to be better than earlier. Good try and best luck.

Yes my friend , I improve that by granulating and use pine charcoal.