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There is a method i personally use to make the Quick match and it is perfect for me. Previously i used to have 5 strands of cotton thread pass through the BP slurry and dry it. There are some problem i faced is that - water absorbed by strands quickly and needed regular mixing of water to the slurry, improper burning of inner core. So tried the new method and happy with the results. Spool the dry cotton threads seperately and have it soaked into the BP slurry (1 litre water : 300 gms BP) without binder directly and let it absorbs as much slurry they can. Then pass them through BP slurry (yogurt consistency) which have 4% binder and strands will pick up a nice layer of BP on top of it. When it burns, all cotton threads burns well since it have absorbed the BP from the slurry. You will not have problem of frequently wetting the slurry and also no problem of BP settling in the bottom of the tool. I find this method is good for me and dries soon.

I have used hot prime coating for my stars. Modified the black powder composition with metal to have high flame temperature P. Nitrate- 35 B. Nitrate- 30 MgAl- 12 Sulphur- 15 Charcoal- 10 (above 200 mesh) Dextrin- 4 The formula is over 100% and the result will vary depending on your quality of MgAl(50:50), charcoal and nitrate and your base color formula. I have bought MgAl from a same vendor just few months apart but surprised to see a very different quality of MgAl (30:70) recieved from them. The color stars with red gum as fuel tends to catch fire easily than the formula posted above. Do trail and change the formula accordingly.

Why are you posting same question all over? Atleast try search tool over here.

I need wave star composition

I need help wave composition for fireworks

Wave composition for fireworks

THANK YOU my friend Zumber. Is it a kind of fountains? is there any points to product this tiger tail?

Tiger Tail Potassium nitrate 44 Sulphur 06 Charcoal 44 Binder 06 Binder may be Dextrin or SGRS.

hello Nice ! what is the composition and ratio?

KNO3 sugar smoke should be white to light grey, maybe you have an impurity in your reagents. Sodium bicarbonate is used in smoke compositions as a coolant more than a retardant. I have heard of compositions with TPA but never experimented with them. Here is a list of some different formulas from pyrodata, I'm sure there's more out there on google: https://pyrodata.com/composition/other/smoke-compositions

I test kn/suger in cold weather ( -6 C) and it makes gray and brown smoke, do you know what is the reason? If we add 10% sodium bicarbonate(as flame retardent) to mixture, is it good for better performance?

I saw some comps that include TPA and cinnamic acid , Do you know where can find this materials easily or product them?

Cost and health wise, the potassium nitrate formula is the best. The main issue is the smoke is very hot, which causes it to rise instead of forming a blanket screen. Igniting a smoke device using this mixture on a very cold (or foggy) night offers muxh better screening results. The other thick white formulas are much cooler and heavier smoke particles which is why they form a screen and "sit" better. The downside is they contain more specialist chemicals and are usually quite toxic (HC, phosphorus smoke, etc).

thank for your answers. I edit the link. and now it is true link. working with melted parrafin is difficult. so do you know another formula and comps for thick white smoke? i use 50/50 kn/suger mixture but color of its smoke was gery and brownish and wasnt thick and good effect smoke.

The video you have linked is a different composition that is used for colour smoke. It uses cooler during potassium chlorate and lactose with an organic dye which is atomised by the burning process. You will not be able to get colour using potassium nitrate and sugar as it's burn temperature is too high resulting in the dye being burnt. Back in the day when I used to make the potassium nitrate/sugar/wax mixtures I used this method: • Potassium nitrate 60% by weight • Icing sugar or standard white sugar 40% by weight • Paraffin wax +40% (same weight as the sugar) The potassium nitrate and sugar were well mixed in a bowl. The paraffin wax was melted on a stove top and then poured into the bowl containing the smoke mixture and well blended until uniform. Then the mixture was packed into cardboard tubes. Now, a characteristic of this mixture is it burns terribly and barely ignites when out in the open in a pile or open ended tube This mixture performs best when it has some confinement in a tube with plenty of ejection holes for the smoke to exit. The ideal container was a thick walled cardboard tube with one end plugged. Ejection holes (abut half a centimetre diameter) were drilled along the sides of the tube before filling with a power drill. I used to do one line of holes on each side of the tube and another along the top spaced about 2 cm apart or less if a small tube. So looking at the tibe front on you have them at 12 oclock, 3 oclock and 9 oclock. The bottom quadrant was not done as the tube would be laid flat when igniting with this side down. The tube was filled with smoke mixture and then the other end plugged. A hot burning fuse (sparklers were great) was stuck in one of the holes at an end of the tube and it was ready to go. The three parallel lines of ejection holes in 3 different directions of the circular tube also helped produce decent coverage in all directions and quite an efficient smoke cloud/screen for a simple KNO3 comp. The mixture burns extremely slowly with the 40% extra wax but you still must have plentiful ejection holes available to disperse the smoke produced.

hello my friend I do that by steps of this video. the comp is kno3:40% sugar:26.6% wax:33.3% I melt parrafin, put composition in it and then in the cardboard tube.

What method did you follow to make your paraffin wax smoke composition? If you include details it is easier to find errors.

DaveF. I think there is a red strobe rocket formula which calls for Mg. I could be wrong though, I'll have to find it again. Here is a link to one example: https://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/819-cplmacs-red-strobe-rocket/?do=findComment&comment=14729

It sounds like the subject of Mg/AP strobe and MgAl/AP strobe rockets are being combined into one topic? I'm no expert, but I have never heard of using Mg in strobe rockets. About the dichromate though, just saw this:

Hello dear friends I make parrafin wax smoke comp(kno3+wax+sugar) and it didnt ignite and work. Could you help me? Do you know and test really operational white smoke composition? thank you

It looks like Mg stearate doesn't decompose at its melting point, which is below the boiling point of water by about 15C, so it seems like coating it with that would be similar to coating with paraffin... weigh both out and heat to ~90C while stirring with a glass rod, allow to cool while stirring to keep it broken up or just wait and break it up since it shouldn't tend to stick together very much. In a dry environment it's still so far below the ignition temperature of magnesium that it should be a pretty safe procedure... I also found an unconfirmed mention of it being soluble in xylene to some degree, but pretty much nothing else.

If this stuff could exist for more than a couple of seconds which isn't likely at non-cryogenic temperatures if any, it would still only be ~55% oxygen. Lithium Nitrate is ~69% oxygen, LiClO4 is 60% if you don't count the chlorine as an oxidizer which it is, and those both exist and are produced in quantity already. Just scaling up production of something like this wouldn't be feasible until all the lithium ran out, and since the main target for this sort of thing is aerospace they'd likely attempt it with ammonium first (as I'll keep repeating, if it actually existed), which they already did, and achieved a 67% oxygen content and a zero smoke fuel that could be used in composites that could be turned on and off which are used for microthrusters in space as hydroxylammonium nitrate ([NH3OH]+[NO3]−) which has the important distinction of actually existing.

For a basic starter kit, all you need is: - straw board hemispheres of desired size - 1/2” or 3/4” gum tape for pasting - time fuse for timing, fast fuse for fusing (or thin string for black match), visco for ignition - KNO3, sulfur, charcoal, dextrin (ideally airfloat charcoal or pine for stars and fast charcoal for BP) - mortar tube of correct size (HDPE, paper, fiberglass) - ball mill and media (the most expensive thing you’ll need, but harbor freight rock tumblers can be made to work) and assorted screens and tubs for mixing - assorted paper and cardboard for making lift cups, leaders, etc. Also rice hulls for coating to make burst, hot glue, white glue, and other misc materials (cheap) - add some ferrotitanium or titanium if you want a wider range of effects beyond just charcoal tailed stars I think this is most of it. Chime in if I missed something important. At a basic level, black powder ingredients and paper is all you need. Getting a ball mill set up to make decent BP is the main hurdle. I did something similar to what is shown here and it has served me well: https://www.skylighter.com/blogs/how-to-make-fireworks/quick-easy-black-powder-ball-mill With these supplies you can get started making some awesome effects! I still remember my first 2” ball shells with chrysanthemum 6 and 8…

Good catch, thanks. I edited my previous post.

Yes, its primary purpose is as a "phlegmatiser", which makes the combustion more even and less sensitive to pressure spikes. It also helps the individual particles in the mixture achieve a cohesive grain, without air pockets, and consistent loading density.